Sand L: two letters that tell the world you’ve made it. There have been seven generations of the Mercedes-Benz convertible, each more or less as impressive as the other, but it’s the R129 generation under the spotlight here. The model was in production for a full 12 years from 1989 to 2001, and for drivers of a certain age, it sticks in the memory. Why? Bruno Sacco’s styling for a start, and then there were the engines, the advanced technology and the sheer driving experience that together propelled this legendary car into the modern age. It was a strong seller, with the result that, today, there are a fair number on the market at prices ranging from £3000 for a high-mileage 1997 P-reg SL320 to as much as £40,000 for a 1995 N-reg SL500 with 10,000 miles on the clock. In between is a riot of 280s, 320s and 500s at all ages and mileages, and in all conditions. There’s little rhyme or reason to the pricing so if you’re tempted to buy one, you should look at and try as many as you can. Increasingly, sellers describe the model as a ‘classic’, and one with a low mileage, no faults and in top condition may very well increase in value. However, experts we spoke to warn that rust is now rearing its head – the kind of rust you can’t see without lifting carpets. It was launched in 1989 with an automatic gearbox, gas-filled dampers, a removable hard top, a pop-up rollover bar and kit taken from the S-Class. It’s a heavy thing but the model’s new engines ensured it had sufficient muscle. Depending on the model year, they were a choice of 2.8, 3.0 and 3.2-litre straight sixes producing between 193bhp and 231bhp, the latter in 24-valve, twin-cam form. Then there was a 326bhp 5.0-litre V8 and a mighty 394bhp 6.0-litre V12 (we found a 1999/T-reg SL600 with 74,000 miles and full service history for £21,950). There was also an AMG version with a 6.0-litre engine but this time a lighter V8, producing 381bhp. Of them all, our pick is the dependable 231bhp SL320, a facelifted model from 1996. That said, one to watch is the SL600. The V12 is whisper quiet, although access to it for even minor repairs (the throttle bodies can be troublesome and it can suffer internal corrosion) is difficult and, as such, very expensive. Major milestones in the SL’s life were the move away from the two-tone paint scheme, plus restyled bumpers and the adoption of brake assist in 1996. Then in 1999 the instrument cluster gained chrome rings and the steering wheel a big Mercedes star in its centre. One good option to look out for is folding mirrors, so you can squeeze your SL into the garage more easily. The SL signed off with the SL500 Silver Arrow special edition complete with autographed Stirling Moss portrait. Only 100 were produced. We found a 2001-reg example with 21,000 miles for £43,995. Now that’s one SL that really says you’ve made it. An owner’s view Gordon Bishop: “I bought my 320 in 2000. It was a few months old with about 1500 miles and had been a dealer demonstrator. It’s since racked up almost 120,000 miles and has never failed me. SLs like to be driven; they hate standing around. Despite the mileage, it’s in beautiful condition. The paint is tough and the alloys haven’t corroded like they can on lesser cars. It’s everything I could want in a car: attractive, comfortable, well equipped and built like a tank. It’s always serviced on the button, mostly specialists using Mercedes-trained technicians. I’ve still got the hard top. Luckily, I have the space to store it.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: Experts call it a ‘biodegradable’ wiring loom for the way it disintegrates over time. Misfires are often traced to it. A replacement loom costs from £150 but labour is much more. Water ingress is usually the cause. Leaky head gaskets on early six-cylinder cars and throttle body wiring issues on V8s are also a problem. A rattle at tickover could be the catalytic converter breaking up. ■ Transmission: Gearboxes are generally reliable, the four-speed more than the later five, which can suffer oil contamination. Regular filter changes prevent it, so check they’ve happened. ■ Suspension and brakes: The SL is a heavy car so expect front lower ball joints, top mounts, bushes and springs to show some strain. Check for overworked discs and pads. ■ Electrics: Check the battery is holding its charge. If it’s failing, it can trigger warning lights. Old alarms are known to be a power drain. ■ Body: Specialists are seeing more rusty SLs these days, problem areas being the boot floor and leading edge of the front wings. Check that the powered hood works, because if left unused for some time, the electronic module packs up. On that point, be wary of a car with its hard-top fitted. Interior: Aside from checking the leather is in good condition and that the powered seats do their thing, make sure all the electrical features work. On the test drive, be sure the air-con chills the cabin and that the heater warms it up. Also
Origin: Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz SL320
buying
Used car buying guide: BMW 1 Series M Coupe
If you were one of the lucky 450 people who bagged a new BMW 1 Series M Coupé in 2011 for its list price of £39,990, then congratulations. Depending on how well you’ve looked after it and its mileage, it may not have lost a penny in depreciation. As this was written, of the 25 or so 1 Series M Coupés, or 1Ms as they’re known, on a leading classified sales site, 20 were priced at £39,990 or more. In fact, three were nudging £60,000. The tragedy is that all the cars advertised for more than £40,000 had done less than 40,000 miles and the most expensive less than 10,000. But their owners or sellers have first to achieve these prices, and considering how picky buyers can be at this level, that may not always be possible. The heads of those shopping for a 1M will also be filled with tales of previously stolen 1Ms – OBD programming thefts were a problem with some early cars – as well as scarily expensive repair bills. However, they will also be filled with tales of just how good the 1M is to drive. It was launched in 2011, and once all 450 cars were sold (two thirds were snapped up before the first car hit the showrooms), that was it. As a result, most wear 2011/11-reg or 2011/61-reg plates although you do see the occasional 2012/61 car, not that it makes any difference to the value. To distinguish it from lesser 1 Series Coupés, the 1M has a wider track and enormous arches, home to four specially designed 19in alloy wheels. From certain angles, it actually looks like a hot rod. Power comes from a twin-turbocharged 3.0-litre straight six that produces 335bhp and drives the rear wheels through a specially developed, short-throw, six-speed manual gearbox. Stab the M button on the steering wheel and an overboost function provides an extra 37lb ft of torque, taking the total output to 369lb ft across a highly accessible 1500rpm to 4500rpm. Standard equipment included a limited-slip differential, DSC stability control whose intervention points can be adjusted by the driver, those 19in Y-spoke alloy wheels, dual-zone air conditioning and leather and Alcantara trim with orange stitching. Options included a Harman Kardon sound system, sat-nav, adaptive headlights and high beam assistant, none of them crucial to a 1M’s value. What does help pile on the pennies, because it’s quite sought after, is Valencia Orange paintwork, one of only three exterior colours offered, the others being Black Sapphire and Alpine White. That said, some of the most expensive 1Ms are in these last two colours, proving that, ultimately, mileage, condition and provenance are the most important determinants of price. Even so, the model can throw a curve ball, such as the immaculate 43,000-mile example with full BMW service history and extended warranty we found for £34,000. It seems too good to be true. It’s got to be worth a gander, surely? An expert’s view Jack Day, Sutherland M Power Cars: “Because it’s rare, great to drive and has that M badge, the 1M is always going to be valuable and sought after. Prices are rising fast. It’s a fickle market, though. We sold one overnight but another hung around for four months. Collectors are moving in now and paying strong prices for the best cars. By ‘best’, I mean immaculate, finished in orange and unmodified. When buying a 1M, I always check for signs of track day use and sub-premium tyres that suggest shallow pockets.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: Start it from cold and check for poor running caused by failing injectors. Rev the engine to around 2500rpm, then throttle off and listen for the turbo wastegate bearing chattering. It’s around £2000 to fix. Related warning signs are engine management issues. However, these could also relate to a failing fuel pump or worn nitrogen oxide sensor. On the display screen, check the service history that’s stored on the key fob. ■ Drivetrain: On the test drive, feel for the propshaft bearing vibrating (also felt as a thumping sensation) and listen for the limited-slip differential groaning during low-speed turns. ■ Gearbox: Check for abused clutches and synchros and note that a replacement dual-mass flywheel costs over £1200. ■ Suspension, steering and tyres: Make sure the rear springs aren’t broken. Check the brake discs aren’t heavily lipped. Suspect track day use if the brakes judder. Ensure all tyres are the same, premium brand and not wearing unevenly. ■ Body: Any rust will be repair related. Check the consistency of panel gaps and for fresh paint and overspray. Lift the boot carpet and examine the floor for signs of buckling or fresh paint. ■ Interior: Inspect the driver’s seat bolster and be sure the heating system works. Check the iDrive control system functions. Most failed units freeze up and are expensive to replace. Feel for damp carpets in the footwells and boot, where blocked drain channels can direct water to the interior, jeopardising the electronics. Also worth knowing Dealers we spoke to were clear that
Origin: Used car buying guide: BMW 1 Series M Coupe
Nearly-new buying guide: Ford Fiesta ST
Enough tributes have been paid to the Ford Fiesta ST of 2012-17 for us not to add to them here, save to say that if you’re looking for a class-leading hot hatch that’s also great value for money, you’ve just found it. Prices start at around £6000 for the first cars and go all the way to £14,000 for the last ST-3s with low mileage. All are powered by a 1.6-litre turbocharged petrol engine producing 180bhp and, thanks to an overboost function, 197bhp for a maximum of 15sec under full throttle. Lifting off briefly is sufficient to reset the timer and away you go again. This generation of Fiesta ST was the first to use torque vectoring, a system that brakes the front wheels individually to tame any incipient understeer. The ST also sits 15mm lower than standard models and has disc brakes all round. In short, it’s ready to play straight out of the box. This applies even to the most basic spec, called ST-1. Basic but still with a few welcome features, including 17in alloy wheels, a bodykit, Recaro front seats, a digital radio, air-con and twin tailpipes. An additional touch was the standard-fit ST mats but they’re probably looking a bit tired now. This version cost just £16,995 when new, but for another £1000, you could buy the ST-2 and most buyers did, attracted by its part-leather Recaros, rear privacy glass and starter button. Later on, the top-spec ST-3, costing £19,250, arrived bearing gifts such as a sat-nav, automatic headlights, climate control and power folding mirrors. Despite its price premium over the ST-2, it came a close second to it in terms of sales. As we explain below, the ST-2 is our pick. However, it’s worth pointing out that with so many used STs for sale, prices are all over the place and you could well bag a better-equipped ST-3 for the same or even less money. For example, we found a dealer-sale 2015/15-reg ST-2 with 40,000 miles for £8995 and a same-age, dealer-sale ST-3 with 45,000 miles for the same price. As always, the devil’s in the detail, with the ST-2 finished in Performance Blue and with upgraded alloys, and the ST-3 in less eye-catching red and standard alloys. The lesson when buying is to look around, compare prices and pay attention to colours and extras. Also, be particular about service history and tyres. Being so cheap, many Fiesta STs fell into the hands of those less able to afford to run them. Servicing, tyres and brakes were among the first casualties and that’s assuming the car wasn’t thrashed or crashed to destruction. Checking shut lines, crouching down and peering along the car’s sides for signs of body repairs and fresh paint, and scrutinising the underside for speed bump damage is vital. And as with all used car purchases, check the car’s finance and ownership status, too. But get a good one, and you’ll be laughing – especially on a B-road. Need to know The ST was launched as a three-door but a five-door version, costing £585 more when new, became available in 2016. A 31,000-mile 2017 ST-2 five-door is around £12,000 compared with about £11,000 for a three-door. In 2018, a recall was issued for early STs. It concerned the possibility of the cylinder head cracking due to localised overheating. Rectification included fitment of a new coolant level sensor with an alarm providing an audible and visual warning. Look out for STs fitted with the ST Style pack (£275 extra when new). It brings dark grey alloys, rear privacy glass (standard on ST-2), red brake calipers and illuminated ST sill plates. Servicing is every year or 12,500 miles and shouldn’t break the bank. The cambelt requires changing at 125,000 miles. Top spec pick With 212bhp on overboost, a shortened final drive ratio for quicker acceleration and tweaked suspension and steering, the limited-edition ST200 is the enthusiast’s ST. Our pick ST-2: This mid-range spec has heated part-leather Recaros, LED running lights, an upgraded stereo and privacy glass. It’s the best value and plentiful, too, so you’re sure to find a good one. Wild card Mountune’s power upgrade kit arrived in 2013. It cost £599 and increased performance by 33bhp to 213bhp. We spotted a tuned 67,000-mile 2014-reg ST-2 Mountune for £6700. Ones we found 2013 ST-2 63,000 miles, £6200 2015 ST-2 40,000 miles, £8995 2016 ST-2 50,000 miles, £9495 2017 ST200 43,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Ford Fiesta ST
Nearly-new buying guide: Mercedes-Benz S-Class
Before we get too carried away with how cheap some S-Class cars look (their prices start at around £15,000), consider that at launch in 2014, the very cheapest, the 350 CDI SE Line, cost £62,000 while the most expensive, the S63 AMG, was twice as much. Basically, behind its enticing price, your bargain S-Class still has the appetite of a much more expensive car. That important caveat out of the way, we can get on with enjoying this most remarkable of vehicles, one that, now in its sixth generation, still sets the bar for luxury cars. It was developed in long-wheelbase form first, a decision that speaks volumes about its intended market and high standards because it meant no compromises were made in its torsional rigidity, the secret to a good ride. A short-wheelbase version followed but it’s the long one that you want and that’s more plentiful on the used market. Equally as plentiful are S350 CDI diesel versions because, let’s face it, the S-Class is an upmarket cab and a mid-power oil-burner is cheaper to run while providing the kind of waftability that executives believe is their due. A more powerful S400d arrived to partner it in 2018, but we’d plump for the 350 every time. Meanwhile, if you like the idea of tearing up £50 notes under a shower of premium unleaded, there are the petrol-powered S500 and S600 models whose generous power outputs we needn’t worry about but which show up the S-Class’s remarkable agility. On that point, the V8 S63 and V12 S65 will leave you speechless. New buyers seeking to reduce their tax burden were directed towards hybrid versions. Unfortunately, for private used car buyers, they only mean lower road tax, although plug-in versions such as the S500 do offer the possibility of up to 20 miles of electric-only running. Just don’t expect anything like the claimed economy figures. At the start of the model’s life, you could choose from SE, SE Line and AMG Line trims, but given the model’s aspirations, top-spec AMG Line was the most popular. Features include 19in alloy wheels and a subtle bodykit, but all have a large TFT display, LED headlights and an array of driver assist features. The model was facelifted in 2018 when, among other things, it received redesigned front and rear ends, more autonomous kit and two 12.3in displays. There were changes to the engines, too, while AMG Line, in Executive and Premium flavours, became the sole trim. An all-new S-Class arrives next year. It won’t affect the prices of older models but, if you’re in the market for a nearly new one, do bear the new model in mind because, to make way for it, Mercedes is likely to sweeten the deals on the last of the current-shape cars. This will hurt the values of late-plate motors, making your nearly-new S-Class no longer the bargain it seemed. Need to know In 2018, the S350d moved from being powered by a 252bhp 3.0-litre V6 diesel to a 282bhp 2.9-litre straight six. It’s even quieter and more refined and a great motorway cruiser. It prompts the question: why shell out more to buy the 335bhp 400d? It may be just about the best car in the world, but the S-Class’s reliability record is far from rosy. Malfunctioning airbags, seatbelts and gearboxes have all been recorded and the engines can suffer start/stop issues, turbocharger oil leaks and engine oil leaks associated with the cam chain tensioner. Because of the presence of its battery, the S560e plug-in hybrid has less boot space than standard models: 400 litres compared with 510. Where fitted, the optional fridge accounts for 40 litres, too. Our pick All the tech and space you could wish for. Early models were also available in lower, SE trim but AMG Line was the big seller and prices start at just £22,000. Wild card AMG S65: Wild is what this version’s all about thanks to its 621bhp V12 that outmuscles all of its rivals, including the Bentley Flying Spur. Prices start at £60,000. Top spec pick S600 L AMG Line: Not as powerful as the S65 but, otherwise, the 523bhp S600 wants for little in its specification. A 60,000-mile 2015-reg car with £20,000 of options costs £54,000. Ones we found 2014 S350 CDI L SE Line, 115,000 miles, £16,000 2015 S350 CDI AMG Line SWB, 70,000 miles, £25,000 2017 S350d L AMG Line, 30,000 miles, £37,000 2018 S500 AMG Line, 7000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Mercedes-Benz S-Class
Used car buying guide: Aston Martin DBS
With No Time to Die, the name of the next Bond film, recently announced, cast your mind back to 2006. It was actor Daniel Craig’s debut outing as 007 but also the year his then new car, the Aston Martin DBS, was first glimpsed. The film did wonders for sales of the DB9-based coupé. (One dealer recalls taking 30 orders but with only eight cars earmarked for his dealership.) Of course, a couple of years later, there was the 2008 recession but, even so, demand remained strong and values of used DBSs held firm – until now. The number of unsold DBSs is rising for the first time, forcing down their prices. The reason? Faltering market confidence, heavy discounting of less well-received newer Astons and the fact that, compared with something like the new and competitively priced Vantage, the DBS seems dated. As an example, Stefan Jordan, sales manager of Fisher Performance Cars, says that in February 2018, he was advertising a customer’s 11,000-mile 2011 DBS Carbon Black Touchtronic II for £118,000. He was offered £110,000 and advised his client to accept it, but the chap wouldn’t accept anything less than £115,000. Last week, Jordan finally sold the car to a collector, a man who knows his Astons and the market, for £85,000. “Right now, it’s a buyer’s market,” says Jordan. “One major classified site is showing around 40 DBSs for sale, well over twice the number you’d have seen advertised a year ago. That’s pushing down prices and any seller who hasn’t woken up to that is in for a shock. However, it’s hard to believe they’ll fall much lower, which is why that collector snapped up my customer’s car.” But enough economics. The DBS was launched in 2007 and the first cars hit the road in 2008. Although based on the DB9, the DBS was lighter, had ceramic brakes, adaptive damping and 20in wheels and its 5.9-litre V12 produced 510bhp, 40bhp more than the DB9 had at the time. The first DBSs were coupés with a manual gearbox, two seats and a parcel shelf. A 2+2 cabin was an expensive (£11,000) and rarely requested option. The last manual car was produced in 2011. The six-speed Touchtronic II automatic variant arrived in 2008 and had a 2+2 interior as standard. It was the bigger seller but today it’s the rare manual variant that commands the higher prices. A Volante convertible version landed in 2009 but enthusiasts prefer the coupé. Notable specials include the popular Carbon Black Touchtronic of 2010 (unique paint and wheels, and carbon fascia and sill covers) and in 2012 a final hurrah, the Ultimate edition. Just 59 of those were made and in 2017 a dealer was offering one for £175,000. Frankly, you’d be better off buying the pick of the range, a 2009 manual in Quantum Silver and with a BO sound system for around £85,000. Just don’t join any card games. An expert’s view Mike Beighton, managing director, Fisher Performance: “We’re all former Aston-trained technicians and main dealer sales people so we know the cars inside out. The DBS thrives on preventative maintenance, which is why we set such store behind one having full service history, with work performed by main dealers or reputable specialists. An example: the diffs need a fluid change every four years. Some non-specialists don’t know that or they may even be encouraged not to bother. We see DBSs in the workshop that haven’t had their fluid changed for eight years, and when you drain it out, it looks like it. Believe me, the cost of a diff and DBS parts in general is such that you don’t want to replace anything other than consumables if you can avoid it.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: On early cars, listen for the inlet manifold ‘breathing’. The engine note appears to rise and fall but the revs are unaffected. Later cars got a reinforced manifold. Some rarely used cars develop sump gasket leaks. ■ Transmission: On early manuals, listen for the clutch ‘squawking’ during low-speed manoeuvres. It’s a fault of the pad material. On Touchtronic autos, check that the selection buttons work positively. Early cars can mis-select, triggering a warning light that a system reset will fix temporarily. Aston can reflash the electronics of affected cars to cure it. ■ Brakes: Check the 12 bolts securing the discs to the carrier. They can shear off due to overheating, allowing the disc to ‘wobble’ slightly. It is possible to source new bolts through a Brembo agent. Otherwise, it’s £12,000 for new front discs and pads. If the car isn’t used on track days, a set should last at least 70,000 miles. ■ Suspension: The Bilstein shock absorbers can leak. It’s caused by dirt working past the top seal. Later cars have a double seal. ■ Body: Check for paint blistering around the door handles caused by water getting underneath. If not treated, it’ll spread. On the Volante, water can cripple the motorised hood latches (very expensive) so check they work. Look for water behind the fuel filler flap that can drain into the boot or into the tank. Also worth
Origin: Used car buying guide: Aston Martin DBS
Nearly-new buying guide: Land Rover Discovery Sport
These days, if you want a family-sized SUV with five or seven seats, four-wheel drive, an economical diesel engine and a tidy driving experience, you’re spoiled for choice. However, only one model brings something of the great outdoors to the table and that’s the Land Rover Discovery Sport. It was launched in 2015 as a replacement for the popular Freelander 2, as well as a kind of cheaper and more practical alternative to the hugely successful Range Rover Evoque, launched in 2011. Today, 2015-reg examples of the Sport and Evoque start at around £13,000 for cars with 100,000-plus miles. At this money, they have the old-school 187bhp 2.2 SD4 diesel engine but the Sport has seven seats rather than the Evoque’s five and is four-wheel drive, whereas the Evoque is likely to be two. Unfortunately for the model’s early adopters, shortly after the Sport was launched, the 2.2-litre diesel engine was replaced by the new and improved EU6-compliant 2.0-litre Ingenium motor, available in 148bhp and 178bhp outputs. The 148bhp version was offered with a choice of two (badged eD4 as before) or four-wheel drive and a manual gearbox as standard, whereas the 178bhp 2.0 is four-wheel drive and available with an optional nine-speed automatic gearbox. This transmission is by far the most popular across the Sport model range. So equipped, the 178bhp 2.0 TD auto is our pick. Later on, a 238bhp version joined the line-up. On the matter of two-wheel drive, few eD4s were sold, which tells you all you need to know about this drivetrain’s suitability. However, it still looks the business, costs less to run and is cheaper to buy so may suit you, depending on circumstances. A petrol engine didn’t arrive until 2017. Also from the Ingenium family, the 2.0 Si4 petrol unit comes in 238bhp and 286bhp outputs. Both are rare but entertaining and, if you don’t do the mileage necessary to justify a diesel, worth considering. For many people, the Sport’s seven seats will be a big draw. They were standard on early models but, with the arrival of the Ingenium engine, became an option, albeit a popular one. Note, though, that Land Rover calls the arrangement 5+2, a hint not to expect much in the way of third-row space. The Sport was updated in 2017, when it received the car maker’s new InControl Touch Pro infotainment system with 10.2in touchscreen. Earlier this year, the model was given a much more comprehensive update and, by rights, should be called Discovery Sport 2 as it sits on a new platform inherited from the second-generation Evoque. But these 2017-on cars cost sky-high money and the real value is to be found at three years old with the balance of the optional five-year service plan – something like a mid-power, mid-spec 2016/16-reg 2.0 TD4 180 auto 4WD SE Tech seven-seater with 70,000 miles for £19,000. Need to know Where fitted and before you buy, give the car’s InControl Touch Pro infotainment system a workout. You’re checking for bugs. If you find any, the good news is that Land Rover released a fix in March 2018 called 17c or 3.5 that should nail ’em. Owners of diesel-powered Discovery Sports have reported fuel-oil dilution problems relating to regeneration of the diesel particulate filter. The message is, if considering a Discovery Sport, be sure your driving routine satisfies the operating criteria described in the handbook. Land Rover offers a five-year service plan on new cars so check if the vehicle you’re interested in was sold with this cover since its benefits are transferable to subsequent owners. Our pick Discovery Sport 2.0 TD 180 SE Tech Auto AWD: Mid-power version offers strong performance with good economy and refinement. SE Tech brings items such as sat-nav, auto lights and a powered tailgate. Wild card Discovery Sport 2.0 Si4 240 SE Tech Auto: If your mileage is low and you fear DPF hassles, bag a petrol Disco Sport. They’re rare (we found a 2018-reg with 14,000 miles for £29,995) but fun to drive. Top spec pick HSE Dynamic Luxury: To HSE Luxury’s Park Assist technology, cooled front seats and heated rear seats, Dynamic adds Narvik Black exterior details, a bodykit, 20in gloss black alloy wheels and special colours. Ones we found 2015 Discovery Sport 2.2 SD4 190 HSE 4WD 7st, 110k miles, £13,500 2016 Discovery Sport 2.0 TD4 150 SE Tech, 60k miles, £16,400 2017 Discovery Sport 2.0 TD4 150 Pure 4WD, 33k miles, £18,995 2018 Discovery Sport 2.0 TD4 180 4×4 SE Tech, 15k miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Land Rover Discovery Sport
Used car buying guide: Vauxhall Tigra
Vauxhall has a habit of pulling a rabbit out of the hat from time to time. Remember the original Zafira with its Flex7 seating system and the Signum with its FlexSpace rear-seat arrangement? You can add another in the shape of the Tigra of 2004-09 – a pretty Corsa-based car with a clever electric folding roof. Forward 15 years and the classifieds, if not exactly wilting under the weight of used Tigras, are at least straining slightly. Prices start at just £500 for runners of all ages and top out at a shade over £3000. Around £1500 is all you need for a clean, well-serviced example from a good home. The model arrived with a choice of two petrol engines: a 1.4 16-valve producing 89bhp and a 1.8 producing 123bhp. A 69bhp 1.3 CDTi diesel followed in 2005. The 1.4 was the best. What it lacks in outright oomph it makes up for by being sweeter, more flexible and considerably more economical than the 1.8. However, it suffers timing chain issues (you can spot a 1.4 a mile off by its tinkling engine) whereas the 1.8 is a straightforward new-belt-at-40,000- miles affair. Those are the engines but the folding roof is why people bought the Tigra – and what a roof. To operate it, you undo a couple of latches, press a button and watch as the motors take over. It should be stowed within 20 seconds. To ensure it folds away neatly, the rear window and pillar drop almost vertically, allowing the roof panel itself to stow unobtrusively above, so preserving boot space. On that point, with the roof folded away, there’s 250 litres of luggage space, while in the closed position, there’s no less than 440 litres. In addition, there’s a shelf behind the front seats (there are no rear seats) that will happily accept 70 litres of luggage or something the size of a sports bag. Allowing for the fact that the roof seals may now be tired, the cabin should be relatively quiet and certainly watertight with the roof up. Over time, body shimmer may have loosened some of the cabin’s fixtures and fittings but otherwise it’s a well-built car that should still feel reasonably tight. The rear Targa-style section of the roof could be specified in either matt metallic Star Silver or in matt Moonland, both of which give the little car a pleasingly sporty and technical appearance. Alternatively, it could be ordered in the car’s body colour, which makes quite an impact. On that point, we found a very pretty 2009-reg 1.4 with 45,000 miles finished all over in yellow, a rare shade, for £2500. Today, trim levels are rather academic but Exclusiv (leather, aircon and alloy-effect touches to the interior) is a good one to shoot for. Sport versions get 16in alloy wheels and a silver Targa-style section. In no way is the Tigra a driver’s car, but as a cheap and attractive hatchback with a difference, it makes a lot of sense. An expert’s view Tim Harrison, founder, Fix My Vauxhall: “I’m an auto electrician and have been working on Vauxhalls since the 1980s. The Tigra’s roof is generally reliable. I can’t think of many issues apart from failure of the pump modulator. Otherwise, being a Corsa under that trick body, the Tigra is a reliable and easy-to-drive car that’s also surprisingly well equipped. I mean, leather, climate control and a Targa-style panel that could be painted in a contrasting colour are pretty impressive on a car costing such little money, even when new. Don’t ignore the diesel. It’s a Fiat engine and pretty tough, as well as economical.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: The 1.4 suffers timing chain tensioner problems. It’s a common fault and heard as an annoying rattle at tickover that just gets louder over time. Fresh oil every year or 12,000 miles is key to its extended life but they still wear out in the end. Best thing is to have the chain and water pump replaced at purchase. Avoid 1.4 engines with numbers beginning 19F, which may have sub-standard camshafts. The 1.8 uses a belt that should be changed at 40,000 miles. Both engines can suffer uneven running caused by a faulty oxygen sensor and alternator issues at around 70,000 miles. ■ Transmission: If selecting reverse is difficult, suspect worn linkage bushes. Replacement is the only long-term cure. Don’t worry: the 1.8-litre version isn’t missing a sixth gear; it just feels like it needs one because fifth is far too low. It feels notchy as well. ■ Brakes: Check front discs and pads for wear. Ensure the handbrake releases because the rear shoes can stick to the drums in damp weather. Scrutinise workshop invoices for evidence of biennial brake fluid changes. ■ Body: Check the hood cycles correctly and the roof seals fit tightly. Inspect the headlights for misting. ■ Interior: Feel for water ingress via the door-mounted speakers. (Water gets in through the top window seals, runs down the inside of the door and exits near the speakers.) Check the floor for damp caused by water entering via the brake master cylinder, where the rubber mastic bonding it to the
Origin: Used car buying guide: Vauxhall Tigra
Used car buying guide: Lotus Elan S2
It’s the Cinderella of British sports cars, the one polishing the taps, ironing the smalls and emptying the dishwasher while its sister, the Elise, enjoys the limelight. It is, of course, the Elan two-seat roadster. Not the legendary first-gen car from the 1960s, but the so-called M100 series launched in 1989, coincidentally the same year the Mazda MX-5 Mk1 came out. It was unfortunate timing. While the Mazda ironically borrowed much from the original Elan, in particular its longitudinal front-engined, rear-drive layout, the new M100 had its engine across the front wheels and was front-wheel drive. Purists were naturally upset, but a test drive usually won them over. The new car, which at least followed Lotus principles in having a lightweight composite body attached to a rigid steel backbone chassis, was funded by General Motors. The US giant also had a share in Isuzu, the Japanese car maker which supplied the Elan’s impressively reliable engines: a choice of 1.6 naturally aspirated and turbocharged units, both heavily modified by Lotus. The former produced 128bhp and the latter, badged SE and easily the more popular, a useful 163bhp. For a time sales were strong, helped by rave reviews from no less a magazine than this. It was all in vain. The car’s less than spectacular looks, high production cost and that perverse layout slowly did for it, and GM pulled the plug in 1992. These first-gen Elans are called Series 1s to distinguish them from the S2s that followed in 1995 after Bugatti bought Lotus and, on discovering a stash of surplus engines, gave the car a second chance. At the same time the handling was sharpened slightly but power knocked back to 156bhp due to the fitment of a catalytic converter. Even so, these rarer S2s now fetch a premium over the more plentiful S1, but ultimately condition is king. All too soon there were no more engines and S2 production ended, only to be revived briefly when Kia bought the rights to the model and dashed off a few examples for the Korean market. Forward to today and, thanks to Isuzu’s engines and GM’s cash, the model has weathered the passing years surprisingly well. ‘Buyer beware’ (see below) highlights a few things to watch for, but if you find a cherished example with a good history, it should serve you well. It certainly won’t feel as baggy as early Elises can. And just look at those prices. They top out at around £12,000, about where the Elise starts. In fact, £7500 to £10,000 is enough to get behind the wheel of a keeper in need of little attention apart from fresh oil and a new filter on the dot. Will prices rise? Specialist Vincent Haydon reckons that as long as Elise values increase, Elans are sure to, but he warns against restoring a barn find at great expense. The model’s just not there yet. Perhaps one day… An expert’s view Vincent Haydon, Vincent Haydon Cars: “As a former Lotus dealer I well remember the Elan. There was a huge push on the Esprit with sales incentives and all sorts, but any objection to the Elan being front-wheel drive was easily countered by giving a customer the keys to the demonstrator. They’d come back with a huge smile and we had another sale in the bag. It helped, too, that it had an Isuzu engine, because people knew it wouldn’t go wrong. Today, they’re a bargain. From £7500 to £10,000 will get you a tidy one with a solid history – and it must be solid because they do like their oil changes.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: The Isuzu engine is bulletproof if regularly serviced. Evidence of fresh oil and a filter every 6000 miles is essential. Check coolant hoses for leaks and clips for corrosion. ■ Gearbox: Another toughie, with synchro problems largely unknown. Linkages can wear, especially the ball link at the end of the shift cable – it can become disconnected. Feel for clutch slip: if it bites close to the top of the pedal’s travel, it’s on the way out. ■ Suspension and brakes: Check rear suspension for corrosion caused by moisture between it and the body (we saw an Elan with newly fitted galvanised wishbones, which are a good mod). Otherwise the suspension is tough, although at this age you can expect to find the odd leaky damper or broken spring. Wheel geometry is adjustable all round, so uneven tyre wear may suggest it needs a tweak. ■ Interior: Quality here lags behind the rest of the car thanks to low-rent GM parts. At least spares are freely available. Leather trim was below par and expect to have to retrim the driver’s seat. ■ Body: Paint crazing is rare so any you see may be repair-related. Shutlines are generally good and a wayward door or bonnet may just need adjusting. Check for worn door and boot seals, which will let in water. ■ Roof: Check for a warped frame and general wear and tear. It should sit properly, but even then it’s likely to let in rain. Also worth knowing For the Elan driver who has everything, how about that final touch: the Lotus certificate of
Origin: Used car buying guide: Lotus Elan S2
Nearly-new buying guide: Volvo XC90
Four years ago, the all-new Volvo XC90 arrived in a blaze of ice-cool Scandi glory – if that’s not a contradiction – and a price tag to match: £68,785 for the D5 First Edition. This limited-edition version was a showcase for the new Land Rover Discovery rival and featured air suspension, nappa leather and a 1400W Bowers Wilkins sound system, in addition to the model’s impressive and appealing roster of standard-fit safety kit. It was a lot of money, but then Volvo has always had an inflated sense of its own worth. Not so the used car market. It has a different view of the Chinese-owned Swedish brand, and the result is that today you can pick up a one-owner, 2015-reg First Edition with 52,000 miles and a panoramic sunroof for just £33,500. That’s more like it, but it gets better: if you’re happy to forego the First Edition, you can get into a one-owner, 2015- reg D5 Momentum – the entry-level trim – with 63,000 miles and full Volvo service history for £23,900. New, it cost £46,250, so happy days. The XC90 was made for the used car market, and not just because of prices such as these. There’s the apparently tank-like build quality to enjoy, for a start. A four-year-old 60,000-miler or even one of the many 100,000-mile-plus examples knocking about (we a saw a one-owner D5 Momentum with 112,000 miles and full service history for £22,000) seems like a safe bet. Or it would were it not for the fact that in the 2018 What Car? Reliability Survey, the XC90 ranked 18th out of 25 luxury SUVs. What’s more, the model has been the subject of a fair number of safety recalls, while software glitches appear not to have been very far away. At least it’s easy to get your head around the model range. Engines are 2.0-litre four-cylinder units in D5 diesel, T5 and T6 petrol, and T8 petrol-electric hybrid forms, while the gearbox is an eight-speed auto, drive goes to all four wheels and the car has seven seats. Trim-wise, there’s entry-level Momentum, mid-spec R-Design and top-spec Inscription. Adding a Pro suffix to each brings the Winter Pack, plus, on R-Design and Inscription, air suspension. Which ones to go for? The big seller, and our pick, is the 222bhp D5 Momentum. It has all the features you could possibly want, while its braked towing limit is a useful 2700kg. On the subject of towing, in 2017 Practical Caravan magazine voted the XC90 T8 its hybrid tow car of the year. Judged purely on economy, it’s hard to make a case for the 316bhp supercharged and turbocharged T6 and turbocharged 247bhp T5 petrol engines, but if your mileage is low, prices starting at £30,000 for a 40,000-mile 2015-reg T6 Inscription are not to be sniffed at. However, that’s still higher than the D5, and when it comes to a used XC90, you really don’t want to end up paying more than you have to. Need to know The XC90’s standard multi-link suspension features a composite transverse leaf spring at the rear for better packaging and improved interior space, but the optional air suspension offers a better ride plus the ability to raise the car’s body by 40mm in off-road mode. Optional red key can be bought for used XC90s. It allows the maximum speed to be pegged at 75mph, the greatest distance to be set when using adaptive cruise and the permanent activation of all the driver assist systems. The XC90 has experienced a number of recalls, some of them concerning its much-vaunted safety systems. Check they have all been actioned, since among the things requiring checking are airbags and safety belts. Our pick Volvo XC90 D5 Momentum AWD auto: Adaptive cruise, LED headlights, a powered tailgate, dual-zone climate control, leather seats, and Momentum trim has most of the safety systems you could wish for. Wild card Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription AWD auto: The petrol-electric hybrid T8 Twin Engine produces 395bhp. It is the fastest XC90 but has an electric-only range of just 25 miles. It’s expensive to buy new but 2016 examples cost half the price, from around £30,000. Top spec pick Inscription Pro: Inscription means nappa leather, thick pile mats and sun blinds; Pro adds the winter pack (heated wheel and windscreen, adaptive lights and bigger wheels) and air suspension. Ones we found 2015 2.0 D5 Momentum auto AWD, 63,000 miles, £23,900 2016 2.0 D5 R-Design auto AWD, 62,000 miles, £27,975 2017 2.0 D5 235 Momentum auto AWD, 25,000 miles, £30,000 2018 2.0 D5 Inscription auto AWD, 12,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Volvo XC90
Used car buying guide: Alfa Romeo GTV
If the Alfa Romeo GTV could talk, it would still be hoarse from its acceptance speeches. In 1995 it garnered at least 10 gongs, two of them from this magazine: Best Sports Car and Car of the Year. Almost 25 years later, the champagne may have gone flat but this 2+2 coupé (there’s also a two-seater roadster called the Spider) is still impressing enthusiasts, as prices approaching £10,000 attest. Such a sum buys a one-owner, 42,500-mile GTV 3.0 V6 24v Lusso registered in 2001. But you don’t have to pay that. We turned up an example of the rarer and more sought-after 3.2 V6 Lusso. It’s done 92,000 miles, has full history and is being offered for £7495. It dates from 2003, the year this most powerful version was launched and when the GTV was facelifted for the final time. Twelve months later, production of the coupé ceased as its successor, the Brera, was readied. The GTV arrived in 1995. Styled by Pininfarina and with a confident, heart-shaped grille incorporating Alfa’s colourful emblem, it’s an attractive car spoiled only by a bland interior that feels a bit low-rent. Subsequent facelifts rounded off the car’s edges and relocated the front numberplate to an offset position, keeping it looking fresh. Bonnet, wings and nose are composite, so no rust concerns there. Elsewhere the body is galvanised, but even so, it’s worth checking for rust in the floor and on the rear arches and sills. The GTV was initially offered with a 2.0-litre 16-valve Twin Spark engine with 148bhp. Later versions gained a variable intake manifold. For its performance, reliability, smoothness and value, this is the engine to have. It was followed, in 1998, by a 3.0-litre 24-valve V6 with 217bhp. To go with the higher performance came larger ‘teledial’ alloys with bigger brakes adorned with red calipers. Today the V6 commands the highest prices, and rightly so, but a well-bought and cheaper TS is the better buy. What’s not such a good buy is the 163bhp 16-valve 2.0 JTS, launched in 2003, that replaced it and which has an appetite for bearings and bores. At the same time, the 3.0-litre V6 was replaced by a 3.2 producing 238bhp for 0-62mph in less than six seconds. Few were sold. Throughout the model’s 10-year reign, Alfa couldn’t resist tinkering. There are lightly modified Phase 1b cars from 1997, Phase 2 facelifted cars from 1998 (new centre console, revised instruments, colour-coded bodykit), cleaner Phase 2b engines from 2000 and, finally, Phase 3 facelifted models from 2003 (new nose, revised console, traction control). Enthusiasts also talk about CF1, 2 and 3 engines and debate their differences, which largely concern the number and location of the catalytic converters. Trims boil down to Turismo and Lusso (V6 cars are exclusively Lusso). There’s a V6 Cup, too, but just try to find one. In any case, at this distance, condition trumps trim. An expert’s view Ned Kirkham, director, Autolusso: “I’d buy a Phase 2 3.0 V6 with the CF2 engine. The CF2 was a useful improvement on the CF1 in the Phase 1 car but not as complicated as the later CF3 that complied with Euro 3 standards. Then I’d fit a Quaife ATB limited-slip diff. It makes a big improvement to the way the 3.0-litre turns in because without it, it can understeer horribly. Avoid the JTS – it suffers oil dilution caused by its direct fuel injection, which causes cylinder bore, camshaft and big-end bearing wear. It also suffers from carbon buildup in the intakes. Look out for the 3.2. Only 54 were sold in the UK and a good one is highly prized.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: All engines require a cambelt change every 36,000 miles/three years and fresh oil every 8000. A diesely rattle at idle means cam variator failure. It should be changed with the cambelt. With JTS engines, check oil quality for fuel dilution and frequency of changes. On all engines, rough running and misfiring may be due to poor timing, or on V6 engines a faulty mass airflow sensor or head gasket failure. ■ Gearbox: On the 2.0 TS, if the clutch bites close to the top of the pedal travel, it needs replacing. The V6’s pull clutch gets heavy and notchy when warm. Check for smooth gearchanges. Swarf buildup in the end casing can cause fifthgear selection issues. On V6s, budget for a Quaife ATB limited-slip diff. ■ Brakes, suspension and wheels: Lower front wishbones wear at each end, causing front tyre inner shoulder wear (although it could also be an alignment issue). Bushes on the rear suspension can wear and specialists advise replacing with Powerflex items. On the V6, feel for warped front discs. Check tyre pressures – the alloys can oxidise, causing a poor seal. ■ Body: Check the sills, footwells and jacking points for rust. ■ Interior: Check the windows work and, on later cars, that the glass drops 10mm. Check the heated rear screen – it can burn out its connection or, worse, the fuse box. Also worth knowing The GTV is from a time when some cars required two keys. GTVs
Origin: Used car buying guide: Alfa Romeo GTV
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