Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz CLK 55 AMG

All hail the used car market, which has produced another supercar bargain in the shape of the CLK 55 AMG of 2002- 06. Note, not the first-gen version launched in 2000 and powered by a 342bhp 5.4-litre V8; no, we’re talking about the more powerful – with 367bhp – second-generation model. Being AMG, that’s a hand-assembled V8, of course. On the plaque affixed to the rocker cover is scrawled the engine builder’s signature. Owners gamely trade their names, like train spotters. One we spoke to refers to his engine’s builder, one Rosario Indorre, in tones you might reserve for a close friend… Still, if you’ve ever driven a 55, you can understand why owners hold these people in such high regard. Tales of electronics problems and body corrosion abound, but there are few complaints about a 55’s engine. It drives the rear wheels via a five-speed automatic gearbox. That sounds a bit tame in this age of nine-speeders, but it’s a tough transmission taken from the more powerful S-Class V12. It also features AMG’s ultra-smooth Speedshift system that you can operate with light sideways shifts of the lever or by rapid presses of the steering wheel-mounted F1-style paddles. Underneath its tight-fitting body, the 55, in coupé and convertible forms, sits on a stiffened and strengthened C-Class chassis. It’s especially evident in the cabrio, which should be rock-solid over bumps. The suspension has stronger springs, larger-diameter roll bars and stiffer bushes, but it’s a heavy car and front control arms take a hammering, as do front tyres. In fact, they can wear as fast as the driven rears. Despite its supercar-baiting performance, the 55 is a discreet-looking motor, an impression borne of its modest 18in wheels, subtle bootlid spoiler and undersized twin tailpipes. The equivalent BMW M3 is shoutier (and more of a hooligan to drive) but it’s the CLK’s discretion that draws out buyers today. Owner Mark Anthony (below) bought a 55 over the M3 for what he regarded as its classier image. That impression continues inside, where two-tone leather, chrome-ringed white dials and AMG-embossed aluminium sill plates remind you you’re in something rather special. Being a Mercedes, and one costing more than a Porsche 911 when new, expect the one you’re interested in to have at least a few options fitted. One worth looking for is the carbon and alloy fascia pack. A full Merc history is nice to see but there are excellent specialists well versed in the ways of older AMGs. In any case, often it’s the electronics that can let a 55 down, and for those you only need the right diagnostics kit plus a good head for fault tracing. The 55 is a terrific car but doesn’t quite have the cachet of the equivalent M3. Fortunately, most prices reflect this. Find a good one, pay sensible money for it and you and Rosario could be friends for life. An owner’s view Mark Anthony, Mercedes CLK 55 owner: “I’ve got a 2006/06 cabrio with 49,000 miles. It’s rock-solid with no scuttle shake. I wanted a supercar with more class than an M3, and it needed to be fun. The CLK ticked all the boxes. Don’t ask about economy – you buy a car like this to have fun. Mechanically, I can’t fault it but the electrics have let me down. First an ECU (£400), then a sensor that prevented it starting. When buying, check the gearbox and adaptive suspension are okay – I’ve had a few arms and bushes go. You won’t know about electronic faults until they happen.” Buyer beware Engines: Have someone rev the engine while you check how much it moves on its mountings (too much and the ECU will reduce power). Check for rocker cover oil leaks and the condition of the front pulley. Check service receipts to see when the spark plugs were changed – there are 16 and they’re not cheap. Gearbox: Cycle the gearbox through the gears from cold, feeling for shunting and knocks. The selector can stick in first but it’s a relatively cheap fix. On early cars with the Valeo radiator, check coolant isn’t leaking into the gearbox. Brakes, suspension and wheels: Feel for heavy lipping on the edges of the discs (OE discs are expensive) and check pad thickness. Front suspension arms are a routine replacement item. The suspension is firm so don’t mistake regular noises for anything serious. The front tyres can take a hammering from the sheer weight of the engine. Electrics: There are ECUs everywhere, including the boot, so check they’re not exposed to dampness by lifting carpets. The windscreen scuttle gets blocked, diverting water to the cabin. Body: Look for rust on rear wheel arches and sills, and also behind the bodykit and undertrays. Interior: Generally tough, but for the best prices avoid anything scratched, torn and knocked about. Check everything works and that all warning lights illuminate first, before then going out. Also worth knowing The secret to running a CLK 55 is budgeting. A warranty will cover unexpected bills but for routine servicing a good garage should
Origin: Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz CLK 55 AMG

Europeans are buying literally tonnes of classic cars from the U.S.

American classic cars are quite popular in Europe. So popular, in fact, that Europeans are buying tens of thousands of them per year to send overseas, Hagerty reports. About 30,000 classic vehicles left American ports last year with destinations in Europe, says Dmitry Shibarshin, marketing director of West Coast Shipping; 12,000 alone were shipped by his Richmond, California-based company, along with 2,000 newer cars. Shibarshin explains how that data was collected: “We pull data from all vehicles and shippers, we look at shippers that specialize in classic cars, and we look at the volume of containers, plus our own data.” Most of the vehicles that are being shipped overseas are domestic, American-made steel, with muscle cars and Corvettes being the highest in demand. Shibarshin says, however, that French buyers are also purchasing British roadsters from owners Stateside, while VW buses from the U.S. are also going like hot-cakes. So why, and how, are Europeans scoping out cars from the US? Shibarshin has an explanation for that too. The cars here are in better condition than in Europe, he explains. There are more climates here that are kinder to the vehicles, and more cars to choose from. As to how buyers are finding these vehicles, Shibarshin says, There’s so much competition to get cars that we have clients who employ people in the U.S. to scan Craigslist all day. Cars are selling within minutes of posting, or people are showing up at the seller’s door with cash. Southern California remains the largest exporter of classic
Origin: Europeans are buying literally tonnes of classic cars from the U.S.

Nearly-new buying guide: Ford Kuga

There was a Ford Cougar once; a family-size coupé based on the Mondeo Mk2. It was a handy thing that, in range-topping 2.5 V6 guise, could do 0-62mph in 8.2sec. Although it’s spelt differently, the Kuga, launched in 2013, at least sounds the same and, with the right engine, promises to be almost as much fun. It’s a family SUV rather than a coupé, so where the Cougar was sleek and low, the Kuga is tall and chunky. It’s based on the Focus Mk3 and is the model we think of when searching for an example of a fine-handling mainstream SUV. Like most cars, the Kuga can be split into pre- and post-facelift generations. The latter arrived in 2016 and is characterised by restyled front and rear ends, the availability of a new 118bhp 1.5-litre TDCi diesel engine, an improved infotainment system within a more comfortable interior and extra driver assistance tech. If only for its striking-looking trapezoidal grille first seen on the Edge, Ford’s larger SUV, it’s the generation to buy and not as expensive as you might fear, with a 2017-reg 1.5 TDCi Zetec with 20,000 miles costing £13,350. Over the years, the engine range has expanded to include busy little Ecoboost petrols pushing out 118bhp to one producing 174bhp, although saddled with four-wheel drive and an automatic gearbox as standard. They’re pleasant to punt along as well as cheap to run if your mileage is low, but if you’re a Kuga person with the kind of active lifestyle the brochure depicts, one of the diesels is a better choice – something like the mid-power 148bhp 2.0 TDCi. This engine has a braked towing capacity of 1800kg but add four-wheel drive and an automatic gearbox and it can shift 2100kg, the same as the 178bhp 2.0 TDCi, which has four-wheel drive as standard. If you’re into dragging boats off the beach, four-wheel drive is perfect, but for most situations, a standard two-wheel-drive Kuga is just fine. The six-speed dual-clutch Powershift transmission is a good one, by the way, and worth seeking out. Ubiquitous Zetec trim opens the batting but it’s Titanium, the next one up, that’s easily the most plentiful on the used market. To the Zetec’s respectable roster of kit (alloys, a digital radio, air-con and a heated windscreen), Titanium adds larger wheels, partial leather trim, climate control and rear parking sensors. It’s our favourite, but if you must spoil the ride, have sports-suspended ST-Line trim. For reasons best known to itself, Ford unleashed a luxo-spec Vignale on impressionable buyers in 2016. Still, it’s not all bad since today’s canny buyer can pick up a 2017/17-reg 2.0 TDCi 150 Vignale with 17,000 miles for £17,000, compared with a current new price of £33,690. Ford was one of the first with an approved used marketing scheme. It promises full service history and cars covered by the balance of their original three-year warranty. Need to know The Kuga has been subject to a number of safety recalls, including potential cracking of the cylinder head, the B-pillar trim being too close to the seatbelt pre-tensioner, the possibility of the clutch pressure plate fracturing, the knee airbag not deploying and the risk of the sump cracking. Surprisingly, given the Kuga’s otherwise strong safety credentials, automatic emergency braking is an option rather than standard. Worse still, it’s not available with Zetec trim at all. Meanwhile, its five-star Euro NCAP rating was awarded as long ago as 2012, since when the test has been toughened up. If you like to have the driver’s seat just so, electrically powered 10-way adjustment is available from Titanium trim upwards. Our pick Kuga 2.0 TDCI 150 Titanium: This version boasts good performance and economy, while Titanium builds on Zetec with things such as a sat-nav and parking sensors. An approved used 2017/ 17-reg with 10,000 miles is £14,500. Wild card Kuga 1.5 Ecoboost 176 Zetec Nav Auto 4WD: Slower than less powerful versions due to its being four-wheel drive and automatic means this orphan in the range is great value used, with a 3000-mile 2018/68-reg one costing £17,500. Ones we found 2013 Kuga 2.0 TDCi Titanium, 120,000 miles, £7795 2015 Kuga 2.0 TDCi Zetec, 74,000 miles, £9283 2017 Kuga 1.5 TDCi Zetec, 25,000 miles, £11,200 2018 Kuga 1.5 Ecoboost Zetec, 15,000 miles
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Ford Kuga

Used car buying guide: Volkswagen Eos

The Volkswagen Eos is a member of that select group of hatchback-derived coupé-cabriolets that graced the noughties and included the Ford Focus, Vauxhall Astra, Peugeot 308 and Renault Mégane. Of them all, though, the Eos was the poshest, a status reflected in its higher price. Fortunately, since production ceased in 2014, its prices have fallen to the extent that you can pick one up for around £700, although at that level you want to be sure the model’s temperamental roof works. Prices peak at around £14,000 for a 2014- reg 2.0 TDI with 20,000 miles. That seems a lot for a car that is based on the old Golf Mk5 and went out of production 10 years ago, so we’d settle for something in between, such as a facelifted, 2011-reg 1.4 TSI for around £7500. The Eos was launched in 2006 and lauded for its spacious 2+2 cabin, roomy boot (at least until the folded roof occupied most of it) and good handling. However, the highest praise was reserved for its stiff bodyshell and a metal folding roof that incorporates a sliding sunroof. Buyers were never short of engines to choose from. From launch to that 2011 facelift mentioned earlier, there was a 113bhp 1.6 FSI (underpowered for the heavy Eos), a 147bhp 2.0 FSI, a 197bhp 2.0T-FSI (one of the best and in Sport trim only) and a 3.2 V6 producing 247bhp that makes a good, relaxed cruiser. Note the emphasis on petrol engines there. The lone diesel was a 138bhp 2.0 TDI. The thing is, if you want a good selection of petrols to choose from, a pre-facelift Eos is where to look because the diesel didn’t really catch on. From the 2011 facelift, it was all change, with the market favouring the torquey 138bhp 2.0 TDI at the expense of the new 121bhp 1.4 TSI, the 158bhp 1.4 TSI with turbocharger and supercharger (it’s the most rounded) and the 208bhp 2.0 TSI from the Golf GTI. With the facelift, the Eos also acquired a simpler but smarter grille and a restyled bonnet and wings. At the back, the comical round tail-lights were given the heave-ho in favour of slimmer, more toned-down affairs. Versions with leather trim gained a new finish capable of reflecting the sun’s rays. The popularity of the diesel version after 2011 is a clue to the model’s appeal to business users, so check the one you’re looking at hasn’t been flogged and neglected. In any case, it’s an EU5 engine so subject to creeping emissions penalties and tougher MOT tests. Really, you want to find one of the petrol models, but avoid the earlier 1.6 FSI. And if you must have the DSG auto, ensure you opt for the facelift model, when the ’box was improved. (Earlier ones must have their oil changed every 40,000 miles or else.) Apologies for what follows… but find a good one and an Eos, the Greek goddess of dawn, could be the dawn of a new era in your motoring. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Phil Harding, VW Service Centre (Gosport): “There are a few issues with the Eos, mostly concerning the roof and making sure the drain holes are clear. Neglect them and in a rain storm the car can quickly resemble a goldfish bowl. Otherwise, the roof is really special. It’s made of steel and glass and even incorporates a sunroof so that it still feels light and airy when the main roof is closed. One thing: check if the engine is belt or chain driven. VW had issues with tensioners failing, causing the chain to jump and destroy the engine. At least a belt has specified replacement intervals.” Buyer beware… ■ Engines: Listen for rough running, which could be air leaks in the breather hoses and/ or carbon deposits fouling the fuel injectors and forming on the backs of inlet valves and diverter flaps. Check the oil level as TSI petrols can drink it. ■ Transmission: The DSG auto gearbox in the first-generation Eos suffered occasional shift issues. Jerky and snatchy changes suggest failure is imminent. ■ Suspension and brakes: The Eos is a heavy car so check the condition of brake discs and pads. On the test drive, feel for a hard pedal and reduced braking effort, suggesting the brake servo pipes are leaking. Springs and suspension bushes can take a pounding, too. Insist the car has a new MOT, proof that at least what play there is in the suspension system is acceptable. ■ Roof: Check the hood operates smoothly and the multi-plugs that channel power for the hood controller aren’t corroded. Ensure drain channels aren’t blocked and inspect the rubber roof seals. ■ Interior and boot: A freshly valeted and scented Eos may be disguising previously damp carpets and a musty smell. If possible, check it when it has dried out. Water can get under the carpets and damage the roof’s control unit. Make sure the boot is dry since water can get in here, too, and corrode the roof pump. Also worth knowing Cayman Autos, a specialist in convertible roof repairs, claims it sees Eos cars with troublesome roofs quite often. Common issues are dry or perished seals, water ingress via the boot and the
Origin: Used car buying guide: Volkswagen Eos

Nearly-new buying guide: Mk3 Mini hatch

The lazy charge that all new cars are the same these days could never be levelled at the current Mini under the spotlight here or, indeed, any Mini before it. Despite being bigger, safer and better equipped than ever before, it retains its forebears’ cheeky charm. It was launched in 2014 in three and, for the first time, five-door bodystyles. The latter was made possible by the new car’s longer body, designed to boost space in the rear cabin and the boot. It was a success, there now being room for a couple of six-footers to make themselves reasonably comfortable. If you want to make the 211-litre boot a little bigger, the back seats split and fold. Up front, the five-door is much like the three-door, with ample room for driver and passenger to find their ideal position. The new car was launched with a choice of petrol and diesel engines, although fast-forward to 2019 and only the petrols survive. Back in 2014, we were less squeamish, with the entry-level One being available with a 1.2 petrol or 1.5 diesel motor, the warmish Cooper with a 1.5 petrol or diesel and the properly warm Cooper S with an unfeasibly large 2.0-litre petrol or diesel. The range-topping John Cooper Works (three-door only) got a more powerful version of the 2.0-litre petrol. A used Cooper isn’t much more expensive than a One, and the better buy, but a Cooper S is a lot more fun and good value. Meanwhile, the John Cooper Works is not quite as on point as its high price would have you think. There are cheaper and more rounded but no less incisive rivals out there. High-mileage One Ds dominate the cheaper end of the classifieds. They’re economical but, if you’re a townie, the petrols are the way to go. The biggest adventure most buyers of a new Mini ever had is navigating their way through the options list. Low on food and water, most wave the white flag and shout for the Chili pack. In 2016, this gained LED headlights, while two more, called Tech Pack (it has a head-up display) and Yours Pack (styling tweaks), joined the range. These and the other option packs can add visual and functional appeal but remember that, like most options, they depreciate faster than the Mini they’re fitted to. Four years after launch, in 2018 Mini One and Cooper got a shot in the arm thanks to some styling and infotainment updates, chief among them being the adoption of Union flag tail-lights. And then later that year, new styles called Classic, Sport and Exclusive that helped simplify the selection process as well as, more pertinently, streamline the new WLTP testing protocol, came into play. With prices spanning £4500 for a 2015 One D to £38,000 for a 2018-reg John Cooper Works, there’s probably a Mk3 Mini to suit your pocket. Need to know If you like the convenience of an automatic gearbox or it’s all you’re entitled to drive, it’s worth knowing that in late 2017 the Mini’s old six-speed torque converter was replaced by a smart seven-speed double-clutch affair that’s more efficient. The Mini has no allowance for towing and there’s no approved towbar, so forget hitching up that trailer tent for your holidays. Meanwhile, roof boxes will only fit the original equipment roof rails, and they’re an expensive aftermarket add-on. Mini’s TLC servicing package is an option available to first owners. It covers servicing for the car’s first three years or 36,000 miles. It’s transferable so it’s worth checking if a used Mini has it, which you can do on the Mini website. Our pick Cooper S 2.0 3dr: Quicker – just – than a Ford Fiesta ST from 0-62mph and over the quarter mile, and with lashings of mid-range torque for spirited in-gear sprints, it’s the Mini range’s sweet spot. Wild card Mini One 1.2: Silly looking on standard skinny tyres and not as economical as the Cooper but the three-pot is decently torquey, while the steering and handling are as delightful as ever. Ones we found 2015 Cooper 1.5 D 3dr, 78,000 miles, £5800 2016 Cooper 1.5 3dr, 40,000 miles, £6995 2017 Cooper 1.5 D 5dr, 32,000 miles, £10,110 2018 Cooper S 2.0 3dr, 10,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Mk3 Mini hatch

Nearly-new buying guide: Nissan Qashqai

The car that created a whole new model class is now in its second generation and past its first facelift, to boot. That happened in 2017 when the Mk2 Qashqai, under the microscope here, received a thorough refresh of its design, finish, equipment and refinement. It was all a bid to keep this family-sized SUV ahead of its rivals, competition that its predecessor had spawned the moment it first rolled off the production line 12 years ago. My, how the motoring world was wrong-footed by that first Qashqai. It has since made up for lost time but Sunderland’s compact marvel isn’t giving up without a fight and makes a cracking used car. Ignoring the many high-milers out there, prices for Mk2 Qashqais (they came out in 2014) start at around £8500 for a tidy 2014/64-reg 1.2 DiG-T Acenta with 30,000 miles. For those with deeper pockets, 2017-facelift cars kick off at around £12,000 for a 2017/67-reg 1.5 dCi Acenta in a bright colour and with 20,000 miles. If you like your used car wrapped and tied with a bow, check out Nissan’s approved used stocks. There are the usual benefits, including a 12-month warranty and a 30-day/1000-mile exchange promise as well as a free courtesy car at service time and free roadside assistance when you have it serviced by a Nissan dealer. So what do you get for your money? Not seven seats, that’s for sure. The Mk2 Qashqai is a five-seater only. If you must have seven chairs, check out either a Mk1 Qashqai+2 or the current Nissan X-Trail. Otherwise, you’re getting an exceptionally well-rounded, car-like SUV with decent cabin and boot space, a stylish and comfortable interior, impressive ride and handling, and efficient engines. Two-wheel drive versions get a torsion beam rear axle and four-wheel-drive ones a more sophisticated multi-link arrangement as well as respectable off-roading manners. But it’s two-wheel drive that most buyers vote for. Top of their agenda is value for money and low running costs. On these measures, the Mk2 Qashqai doesn’t disappoint. There’s a gaggle of engines but, for undemanding, low-mileage drivers, we recommend the 113bhp 1.2 DiG-T petrol. It accelerates smoothly, cruises easily on the motorway and returns up to 45mpg. For higher mileage, the 1.5 dCi diesel is more suitable. It’s a flexible, refined and willing unit. It’ll cruise the motorway all day long and return up to 56mpg. There are five trim levels, ranging from Visia to Tekna+. Visia is generous, with four electric windows, a 5.0in infotainment system and air-con. (Acenta, the next up, gets dual-zone climate control.) Further up the range, N-Connecta adds a safety pack and Tekna brings leather upholstery, a Bose audio system and even more safety kit. Newer rivals such as the Seat Ateca may be more polished in every area but a Mk2 Qashqai fits more pockets. Need to know The Qashqai’s optional automatic Xtronic gearbox is a CVT (continuously variable transmission). Such gearboxes can often make a car sound revvy and breathless but, when paired with the impressively torquey 1.6 dCi diesel engine, the Qashqai’s is much less vocal and pretty lively with it. The panoramic sunroof was a £400 option and is well worth seeking out. It’s standard on Black Edition models launched in 2016 but you’ll find it across most versions. It floods the cabin with light and gives the whole plot a welcome lift. Only diesel Qashqais from 2015 on are Euro 6 compliant, so a Mk2 launch model could cost you dear if you want to enter areas such as London’s ultra-low-emissions zone. Our pick Nissan Qashqai 1.5 DCI N-Connecta: A generous spec (Smart Vision, 18in alloys, sports seats, 7.0in display, digital radio and 360deg camera) meet a sweet diesel to make a well-balanced version in plentiful supply. Wild card Nissan Qashqai 1.6 DIG-T Tekna+: The ultimate Qashqai lays it on with everything from nappa leather to a panoramic sunroof and the full panoply of safety features. The torquey, 160bhp 1.6 DiG-T petrol engine offers respectable performance, too. Ones we found 2014 Qashqai 1.5 dCi Acenta Premium, 158,000 miles, £5999 2015 Qashqai 1.5 dCi Acenta, 72,000 miles, £8400 2016 Qashqai 1.2 DiG-T N-Connecta, 43,000 miles, £10,000 2017 Qashqai 1.5 dCi Acenta, 20,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Nissan Qashqai

Couple loses $14,000 after buying stolen SUV covered by Manitoba Public Insurance

2015 Ford Explorer LimitedGraeme Fletcher When a Manitoba couple bought a used 2015 Ford Explorer for $14,500 from an independent seller last August, everything about the deal appeared legit. They had no idea the vehicle was one of thirteen taken from a Winnipeg used car dealership in an alleged inside job involving a former sales manager. The SUV looked and was running fine, and the paperwork was all there. Manitoba Public Insurance (MPI) was happy to cover the vehicle for its new owners, which as you’d expect made them feel completely safe in their new purchase. But all was not as it seemed, and soon the police came for the vehicle, seizing it and telling the owners it had been stolen from a Winnipeg dealership. According to the CBC, the vehicle hadn’t been reported stolen by the dealership, Auto List of Canada, when its new owners went to have it insured at MPI, which is why it didn’t set off any alarms. Normally the company’s system prevents registration of stolen vehicles, but police weren’t notified of the Explorer’s theft until two days after it had already been sold. It all unraveled for the thieves when a call from Winnipeg police informing Auto List of a stolen vehicle prompted the dealer to do a count—turns out 13 vehicles had disappeared from the lots. From there it was simply a matter of following the paper trail. Two men, including a former Auto List sales manager, have been charged with multiple counts of possessing stolen vehicles, forging bills of sale and transfer of ownership documents, and defrauding the purchasers. The hot Explorer was returned to Auto List, leaving the couple that purchased it out the full $14,500. MPI says they can attempt to bring legal action against the person who sold the hot SUV.
Origin: Couple loses $14,000 after buying stolen SUV covered by Manitoba Public Insurance

Used car buying guide: Audi A2

If you’re panning for gold, stop: we may have found some you don’t have to grub around for. It’s the Audi A2, a remarkable little car most of us know to be a future classic but few have acted on. Well, now’s the time to do just that because you never saw such a sweet little bargain. Just £500 is all you need for a 2001- reg SE 1.4 with 116,000 miles and full service history, but if you’re made of money, how about a one-owner 2002-reg 1.4 TDI SE with 98,000 miles for £1795? Many A2s have full service histories and, being Audis, still feel taut and fresh. Best of all, their owners are nuts – in a good way. They love good engineering and they love their A2s. They look after them – and that’s rare in the used car market. The A2 is one of those cars that comes along now and then and gives the trees a good shake. Lightness, exceptional fuel economy, impressive packaging efficiency, high levels of safety and ease of ownership were its USPs when it was launched in 2000. (It ceased production in 2005.) Built entirely of aluminium and with a strong spaceframe at its heart, it weighed just 895kg in its lightest form. It arrived powered by a 74bhp 1.4 MPI petrol engine, followed a few months later by a three-cylinder 1.4 TDI diesel engine also producing 74bhp. Owners boast of this engine returning up to 70mpg. The next year, the most interesting A2 was launched: the stripped-out 60bhp 1.2 TDI diesel auto. Unfortunately, this ultra-economical model (it returns a claimed 94mpg and emits just 81g/km of CO2) wasn’t sold in the UK, at least officially, but around 10 examples survive here today. Rob Womersley, boss of VW and Audi specialists Wom Automotive, owns one – but then he owns six A2s and claims his business maintains 100 of them. “A2s are just so tough,” he says. “We have some as courtesy cars and they never give any trouble.” He doesn’t quite include the more powerful 109bhp 1.6 FSI petrol and 89bhp 1.4 TDI diesel in his tribute. Audi’s direct injection system made its debut in the 1.6 FSI and never settled down; and that 1.4 TDI has a temperamental dual-mass flywheel and its turbocharger is prone to carbon build-up. Fortunately, there are enough less troublesome 74bhp 1.4 MPIs and TDIs on the market for you to ignore them. Another costly problem, common to all A2s, is repairing serious accident damage. It’s high enough for most insurers to write off a car. At least casual dents can be fixed. SE trim dominates but many of its features that were initially standard were withdrawn to become options, once Audi realised they were the only things that turned a profit. Cars in Sport trim sit a little lower and have sports seats. Most A2s have two seats in the rear and, remarkably, they’re removable. It’s a buying guide cliché but now really is the time to buy a good A2 before that word ‘bargain’ no longer applies. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view: Graham Alderson, Director, IVC Leeds: “We’re a specialist Volkswagen Group workshop and I’ve always owned Audis. Last year, I bought a 2003 A2 1.4 TDI with 155,000 miles on the clock. I’ve since put another 40,000 on it commuting to work. It hasn’t put a wheel wrong and averages 55mpg. It’s one of the few A2s with three rear seats, so I can carry my three kids. We get a steady dribble of A2s through the workshop but I can’t say there are typical problems, other than age-related things like worn suspension.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: The 74bhp 1.4 MPI can suffer coil packissues. The 1.6 FSI can have problemswith its direct injection and emissionscontrol systems and, on lower-mileagecars, its head gasket. The 89bhp 1.4TDI can suffer expensive dual-massflywheel issues and carbon build-up onthe variable-geometry turbo. ■ Transmission: A notchy change may be worn selectortower bearings caused by water ingress. ■ Brakes: More powerful petrol and diesel A2shave discs all round but the rears cancorrode easily since they’re little used. ■ Suspension: On post-2002 cars, check for failure ofthe pressed-steel wishbones. (Earlierones were cast.) Worn anti-roll barbushes may need replacement of theentire component but you can fit anoversize bush instead. On A2s with 17inwheels and S line suspension, expectthe ride to be uncomfortably firm. ■ Body: Corrosion is likely to be related to apoor crash repair where non-Audi approved connecting parts have beenused. Check for water in the batterycompartment, caused by tired seals inthe rear bumper. Where fitted, makesure the large glass roof operates asthe mechanism can be temperamental. ■ Identification: Confirm the vehicle’s ID on theVIN plate, which, in addition to the usual locations, you may find inthe passenger footwell, under thehandbrake, in the rear centre tunnel orunder the false floor on the driver’s side. ■ Interior: Expect the driver’s seat side bolster tobe worn and the satin finish on switchesand controls to be wearing off, but noserious rattles. Also worth knowing To check the oil level,
Origin: Used car buying guide: Audi A2

Nearly-new buying guide: BMW 3 Series (F30)

The spectacle of all-new 3 Series saloons leaving your local BMW showroom can mean only one thing: a mountain of trade-ins, many of them the model’s predecessor, the F30-generation model of 2012 to 2018. What a cracking car it is. True, by the end, rivals – notably the Jaguar XE, Mercedes-Benz C-Class and Audi A4 – had the measure of it but none was such an all-rounder as the F30. Handling, composure, performance, efficiency, quality, image – the F30 has it all in abundance. Even the interior, on earlier models a weak spot for its bulky transmission tunnel, is roomy in the back. The boot’s a handy 480 litres, or larger if you find a car with optional folding back seats. You want more grip? There’s four-wheel drive in the shape of xDrive. You want to join the hybrid revolution? Early on, there was the ActiveHybrid 3, followed later by the 330e iPerformance, a plug-in hybrid capable of up to 25 miles of pure-electric motoring. During its first year on sale, the F30 accumulated an impressive selection of engines, standouts being the smooth and lusty 320d, the snarly 330d, the creamy but potent 328i and its more frugal 1.6 turbo relation, the 320i EfficientDynamics. The 320d and 330d were EU6-compliant from launch. Buyers could choose between a six-speed manual gearbox or an eight-speed automatic, both superb. In 2015, the then three-year-old F30 received a shot in the arm courtesy of restyled front and rear ends, LED headlights and a refreshed interior. At the same time, new engines – such as the three-cylinder 318i, the 99g/km CO2 320d ED and the seriously quick 340i – joined the range. The chassis and gearboxes were improved and more advanced infotainment features arrived. Throughout, standard kit has always run to alloy wheels and climate control. SE models have dual-zone climate control, automatic lights and rear parking sensors and Sport cars get sports seats and other racy bits. The Modern trim reaches out to BMW newbies with more informal colours and Luxury ladles on the goodies. Can’t stretch to the mighty M3? You can always seek out the copycat M Sport, with its bodykit, larger alloy wheels and sports suspension. So where to find your used F30? You shouldn’t have to look too far. One major classified sales site is showing over 4000 at prices starting from £4399 for a 2012/12-reg 320d ED with 170,000 miles. At the other end of the spectrum, you can get into a 2018/68-reg 320d M Sport auto with 1500 miles for £32,985. Its all-new, G20-gen equivalent starts at £38k. At the time of writing, the cheapest BMW approved used F30 was a 2013 320d ED with 50,000 miles for £9424; not bad for a car with a 12-month warranty and full service history. All F30s have variable servicing. On cars under five years old, check if they were sold with the five-year servicing pack. It could save you some money. Need to know Because it’s built so well, you should be alive to the risk of buying a clocked F30. In fact, it’s easy to give one a haircut because of its digital odometer but just as easy to interrogate the ECU and spot it. Check old MOTs, too. Options typically depreciate faster than the car they’re fitted to so look out for extra toys at no extra cost. One worthwhile option is folding rear seats, but walk away from oversized wheels, which do little for the ride. A full BMW service history may be expensive to maintain but it will always reward you with an easier resale. Still, don’t ignore the very capable BMW specialists out there who can save you money and who have more experience of older, leggier cars. Our pick BMW 320d SE: Keep your sports suspension and big engines. We’ll take our F30 in SE guise with its more compliant suspension, powered by the 187bhp 320d diesel engine that can do up to 57mpg. Wild card BMW 340I M Sport Auto: The smaller engines and standard springs – that’s the route to the F30’s heart. The 340i M Sport has none of these so we’ll just take its 3.0-litre turbocharged six-cylinder petrol engine for all it’s got. Ones we found 2013 BMW 320d ED, 83,000 miles, £8300 2014 BMW 320i Sport, 40,000 miles, £12,300 2015 BMW 330d Sport auto, 50,000 miles, £15,000 2016 BMW 335d xDrive M Sport, 50,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: BMW 3 Series (F30)

Used car buying guide: Rover Mini

Buy the right one and it’ll be great fun but buy the wrong one…” So says Richard Williams, a long-established Mini specialist. It’s advice that you could apply to any motor, but given that a good Mini is the definition of ‘fun’, to buy a bad one must surely be the definition of something verging on hell. The worst thing waiting for you in the flames is rust like you’ve never seen. Replacing corroded shells, panels, bulkheads, floors and sills is an expensive and fraught business, and having sorted one problem, you’re bound to find another, and another… Such a vehicle passed through auction recently. The 1985 C-reg Mini 1000 City E had done 89,000 miles and sold for £2530. The car’s former owner, its 11th, had bought it to rekindle youthful memories. It was in original condition, but by October 2017, he’d spent £800 on new sills, £1629 on other panel work and £1500 on mechanical and electrical repairs. “I realise I am no longer a Mini fan and neither am I prepared to carry on being a mechanic,” he said as the hammer fell. Not the most encouraging anecdote with which to start a Mini buying guide but it’s best you remove your rose-tinted specs now. Williams has: “I only buy garaged Minis, generally from retired folk who appreciate and know how to look after them.” The model goes back to 1959 but here we’re interested in the last-of-the-line Rover Mini, also called the Mk7, of 1996-2000. By 1990, the Mini’s venerable 998cc engine had gone, replaced by a 1275cc unit. In 1992, this got single-point fuel injection and then, in 1996, with the arrival of the Mk7, multi-point complete with distributor-less ignition, electronic management and a coil per plug. The old side-mounted radiator was moved to the front, the alternator was beefed up and a higher final drive ratio was fitted. As for the body, the wheel arches became more flared, the headlights got adjustable levelling and side impact beams were fitted. New seats and headlining, thicker carpet, new control stalks and trims, remote central locking, seatbelt pre-tensioners and a driver’s airbag completed the interior makeover. Versions included the standard 1.3i, the Cooper 1.3i and its sporty spin-offs, and specials such as the Paul Smith, Classic Se7en and Knightsbridge. It was all done in response to research that had found the Mini was popular among fashion-conscious, professional singles; perhaps the same research BMW drew on for its replacement. Today, a nice, garaged Mk7 looks better than ever. It may lack the cachet of a classic Cooper, say, or a standard version with sliding windows and a cable door opener, but you’ll pay less (although we found a 2001 Cooper Sport 500 with 500 miles for a stiff £28k) and have something that rides and goes that little bit better. Buy a good one, as opposed to a bad one, and its price will only go one way, too. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view : “I spend 90% of my time looking for good Minis and 10% selling them. I’m only interested in well-maintained garaged cars because that’s what people want and are prepared to pay for. For example, I had 17 very nice Minis two weeks ago and now I’ve only three left. You can buy far cheaper Minis than mine from around £3000 but you may need to spend at least as much again getting such a car to an acceptable condition. Then, when people research its MOT history and find it was once failed for rust, not even the expensive bodywork you’ve done will persuade them to buy it! Good ones are out there but you’ll need to look at five cars to find one worth having.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Oil smoke could be valve stem seals, a low-down rumble a distressed crank, a noisy idle a failing timing chain and mayonnaise around the oil filler a leaky head gasket. Check the condition of the oil and coolant levels, and for a recent oil change sticker. Let the engine idle and pray the cooling fan cuts in. Blip the throttle and watch for the engine rocking abnormally. ■ Transmission: Even a healthy gearbox whines on the overrun. Listen for worn synchromesh and feel for a tired clutch. A recent MOT will have checked things like split driveshaft gaiters but feel if CV joints are worn by turning the wheel to full lock and driving slowly in circles. ■ Brakes, steering and suspension: The ride should be bouncy but well damped, and the steering light and quick, the car changing direction in an instant. When braking, expect to pull up in a straight line and for the brake pedal to feel firm, not hard. Again, a fresh MOT should rubber-stamp most of these mechanicals. Try to separate trim rattles from suspension noises. ■ Body: Check the inner and outer sills, floor and rear subframe for rust. Ditto the front wings, door skins and the A-panel between the doors and wings. Use a magnet to locate filler and a screwdriver to lift and peer behind anticorrosion layers. Also, check the boot floor where the battery sits. Also worth knowing It may look like a
Origin: Used car buying guide: Rover Mini