Back in 1994, Autocar’s test fleet boasted a Porsche 968 Club Sport in its ranks. Shorn of 50kg by the removal of equipment and stiffer than the standard car, it was a sweet-handling device. Some months after it arrived, we had reluctantly to return it. Someone should have made Porsche an offer for it. Today, you’ll be lucky to find a nice Club Sport (CS) for under £30k. In fact, as this was written, one dealer was asking £71,000 for a fully restored 1995 CS with 43,000 miles. Based on its 944 predecessor’s front-engine rear-drive platform, itself derived from the 924, the 968 was launched in 1992. It had started life on the drawing board as a 944 S3 before Porsche decided it had moved so far away from that model that a new name was called for. And so the 968, which shared around 20% of its parts with the 944 S2, was born. It went on sale in 1992 in 2+2 coupé and two-seat convertible forms powered by an all-aluminium 3.0-litre four-cylinder engine driving the rear wheels through a six-speed gearbox. Fitted with Porsche’s new VarioCam variable valve timing and Motronic fuel injection, it produced 237bhp – sufficient for 0-62mph in 6.5sec. The optional, dual-mode Tiptronic gearbox lengthened that to 7.9sec but then the standard 968 was never about straight-line performance. Rather, it was first and foremost a comfortable and engaging GT with, happily, everyday reliability and creature comforts. In contrast, creature comforts were the last thing the Club Sport version could boast of. It arrived in 1993 devoid of electric mirrors and windows, central locking, a hatch release and the two rear seats. Meanwhile, the front chairs were replaced by a pair of lightweight Recaros and it sat 20mm lower. The CS proved its value on the track but not in the showroom, where sales were nothing to write home about. Nonetheless, it had helped identify a strand of customer desirous of a semi-skimmed CS; still low, light and focused and perfect for weekend track days but also comfortable enough for the working week. And so the more popular 968 Sport was born at the end of 1994. Some say this version is the best 968 of all (at least those who can’t afford the CS) but really, almost 25 years since the last one left the factory, the best 968 is any version with a solid service history complete with supporting invoices, no mechanical issues and no rust. Fortunately, there are enough decent-looking 968s costing between £12,000 and £19,000 to rummage among and rising values only mean more will come to market properly refurbished. Relatively few 968s found homes in the UK, and when researching this guide, we encountered many specialists who claimed not to have seen a 968 in their workshop for years. No matter: the model’s scarcity and its reputation among enthusiasts is why, when you find a good one, you should snap it up. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Mark Peters, Precision Porsche: “One of the first things you should check is the quality of the service history – not how many stamps it has in the book but the detail in the invoices. That’s where you’ll find information not only on oil changes and the grade of lubricants used but also on essentials such as belt and tensioner guide changes. I’d even look for timing chain replacement. Used parts are thin on the ground and that forces owners to buy expensive new ones, so be sure the 968 you buy hasn’t been neglected. For example, brake calipers can corrode, causing the pads to bind. I’ve known owners to file down pads to free them rather than buy new calipers!” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Check that the water pump, timing belt, balancer shaft belt and timing chain tensioner guides, if not the chain itself, have been changed at four-yearly intervals. Look for oil leaks from the front engine seal and inspect the fuel pipes for rust. Check the electric cooling fan cuts out: the relay is £200. ■ Transmission: Listen for the rear diff pinion bearing whining and feel for it vibrating. Check the clutch since a replacement is expensive. Make sure the Tiptronic has had regular oil changes. Controls such as kickdown switches can play up. ■ Tyres, brakes and suspension: Make sure pads aren’t seized in the calipers and the brake pipes aren’t corroded. Check the condition of the trailing and control arms, and the front wishbone outer ball joints, which can fail frequently. Make sure the shock absorbers are okay since they’re expensive to replace. ■ Body: Remove the undertrays and check for rust. Look for water ingress from the sunroof and tailgate, which can affect an under-seat-mounted ECU. The galvanised body is prone to rust, especially under the rear wheel arches and around the rear trailing arm bodyshell mounts. One we found Porsche 968 Lux Coupé 1993/K-reg, 99,5000 miles, £13,995: Full Porsche service history and free of rust, this 968 has recently been fitted with a new clutch, shock absorbers, brake discs, a cambelt and idlers.
Origin: Used car buying guide: Porsche 968
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Nearly-new buying guide: BMW X3 (2014-2017)
Take one BMW 3 Series, give it the SUV treatment and – hey presto – you’ve a hit on your hands. Well, that’s the theory. In fact, by the end of its life, the first-generation X3 of 2004 to 2010 was losing ground in the face of fresher rivals. Whatever replaced it needed to be a lot better. Fortunately, it was. The second-generation X3, under the spotlight here, landed in 2010. Bigger, quicker, greener and, when its specification was taken into account, cheaper, it set about the opposition with gusto. By 2014 a facelift was necessary, not least because of the forthcoming Euro 6 emissions regs. It’s this facelifted version we’re discussing here, since it is, at least for the moment, future-proofed against Ultra Low Emission Zones. Considering that neither pre- nor post-facelift there isn’t a petrol engine in the X3 line-up, that’s pretty important. But we know what you’re thinking: you don’t have the £10,000 or so required for admittance to the class of 2014. Fortunately, around £6000 will get you into a 2011-reg 20d xDrive auto with 140,000 miles, while £9250 secures a 2012-reg with 83,000 miles. Ignore the unloved 18d – it’s two-wheel drive where the rest are xDrive four-wheel drive. The six-cylinder 30d and 35d versions are performance bargains, with a 2010- reg 30d SE xDrive auto with 40,000 miles yours for £8995. Back to those facelifted Euro 6 X3s of 2014. The 2.0-litre engines are represented by the short-lived 148bhp 18d and 187bhp 2.0-litre 20d (it made 181bhp before), and the 3.0-litre units by the 255bhp 30d and 309bhp 35d. Variable damper control was available across the range and is worth having on larger-wheeled and more stiffly suspended X3s. The facelifted X3 got a tweaked grille, new bumpers and mirrors and, importantly if you like your coffee, new cupholders. Even entry-level SE trim has leather, 17in alloys, parking sensors, dual-zone climate control, hill descent control, and the excellent iDrive infotainment system with sat-nav and a digital radio. Choosing it over the others is the grown-up thing to do, but M Sport trim, with its bodykit, sports suspension, sports seats and 19in alloys, will look better on your driveway. In between it and SE sits X Line, a kind of poor man’s M Sport with larger wheels, a sports steering wheel and fancy sills. Regarding gearboxes, the X3’s six-speed manual is smooth and helps keep the 20d on song, but the eight-speed auto is more relaxing and more efficient. The 18d sDrive is slow and not much more economical than the four-wheel-drive 20d, which is the star of the range. If you tow or do a lot of motorway miles, check out the 30d (the 35d is too extreme). A 2015-reg 20d SE auto with 60,000 miles is around £15,600 and a 30d M Sport auto with 55,000 is £17,500. Considering they were around £34,000 and £43,000 respectively when new, those are some savings. Need to know The X3 has been subject to a number of safety recalls, among them an insecure rear spoiler, a dodgy screw on the steering system and rear brake calipers not coated to specification. Check that the car you’re interested in has had them all attended to. The 2.0-litre diesel engine in pre-2014 facelift X3s is codenamed N47. According to reports, it has a reputation for excessive timing chain wear leading to premature failure. BMW took action to fix the problem, culminating in the fitment of the new and uprated B47 engine from 2014. Options include an adaptive damper control system offering Normal, Sport and Sport+ modes, and variable Servotronic steering. However, they’re dynamic overkill on lesser-powered versions, which ride and steer perfectly well. Our pick SE spec comes with standard suspension that suits the model better than the firmer set-up on more expensive trims. The 20d engine pulls well from 1500rpm and returns a real-world 40mpg Wild card A 0-62mph sprint time of 5.3sec puts this quickest X3 firmly in ‘wild card’ territory. That you have to wonder if such performance is necessary in an SUV confirms it. Ones we found 2015 X3 20d xDrive SE, 135,000 miles, £10,500 2016 X3 20d xDrive M Sport, 68,000 miles, £17,200 2017 X3 30d xDrive M Sport auto, 32,000 miles, £25,200 2017 X3 35d xDrive M Sport auto, 20,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: BMW X3 (2014-2017)
Used car buying guide: Volkswagen Golf R (Mk6)
The used car market can be a strange place, and it’s no stranger than when two generations of the same model rub shoulders. For example, nosing through the ads for Volkswagen Golf Rs you’ll find that for around £15,000, you have two choices: an older Mk6 or a newer and improved Mk7. Of course, the Mk7 it has to be. Fortunately, below that figure and down to around £10,500, life is a lot simpler, since only the Mk6 is in contention. It was launched in 2010 and expired in 2012 but in its short life the Mk6 wrote the rule book for its successor: downsized 2.0-litre turbo petrol engine, Haldex four-wheel drive system and a choice of six-speed manual or seven-speed dual-clutch automatic DSG gearboxes. The newer model has the sweeter chassis, more power and more electronic trickery up its sleeve, but in spirit and execution it and the Mk6 have much in common, being quick, capable, discreet and well built. The Mk6 R was a replacement for the Mk5 R32 that had expired in 2008. That model was powered by a 3.2 V6, so news that the R would have a 2.0-litre turbocharged engine raised eyebrows. Happily, they resumed their customary position when it became clear that the engine, a development of the MK5’s EA113 2.0-litre motor, produced no less than 267bhp and 258lb ft, compared with the R32’s 247bhp and 236lb ft. Throw in the R’s 0-62mph time of 5.7sec (5.5sec with the DSG), a healthy 1.2sec (and 0.7sec) quicker than the R32, and it was obvious that a new chapter in high-performance Golfs had begun. Today there’s a wide choice of used Mk6 Rs to pick over. DSG autos outnumber manuals, and their responsiveness and superior economy make them the better buys. The gearbox has issues but, as long as its fluid and filter are changed every 40,000 miles, it should behave itself. At the cheaper end, the manual gearbox is probably a safer bet. Three or five doors? A five-door is more practical and only reinforces the R’s already discreet appearance. The R is well equipped as standard, with eye-catching 18in Talladega alloys (VW had to distinguish it from its lesser-powered GTI sibling), a bodykit, lowered sports suspension and large front stoppers. Browse the small ads and you’ll see sellers boasting of extras including adaptive chassis control (ACC, with Normal, Comfort and Sport modes), 19in Talladegas, full leather and Recaro seats. Less desirable add-ons include aftermarket exhausts and a remap. On that point, make sure the gearbox has a stronger clutch to handle any extra torque. We mentioned the high prices of some Mk6 Rs. Admittedly they appear to be in excellent condition, have full service histories and come with stacks of extras, but at £17,500, where their prices peak, you could be in a 2015 Mk7 5dr with 31,000 miles and a full VW service history. The best advice is to try them both. An owner’s view Joe James: “I have a 2011 Mk6 R 5dr with 61,000 miles. It has full VW history and I’ve just had the DSG fluid and filter changed. The car is quick, comfortable and well made. I can’t fault it. The paddle shifts add an extra dimension – why would anyone bother with the manual? It’s more economical than the manual, too, with up to 32mpg on the motorway. My car has the optional ACC active dampers. It’s hard to tell Normal from Comfort, but Sport is very firm. Prices for Mk6s can be high because the model is rare and exclusive. Mk7s are 10 a penny!” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: A new belt and water pump at 60,000 miles and new oil every 10,000 are essential. Check if the oil filter canister is leaking. Ask if the fuel pump cam follower has been changed – it can fail prematurely. Scrutinise the diverter valve, listen for misfires (possibly a failing injector or ignition coil) and smell for coolant leaking from the thermostat or water pump. ■ Transmission: Check that DSG ’boxes have had an oil and filter service at 40,000 miles, and check the oil level. A juddery clutch may indicate imminent failure of the dual-mass flywheel. ■ 4Motion system: Failure of the hydraulic pump that operates the clutch plates can cause wheelspin under acceleration – a diagnostic system check will confirm. Check for corroded pump wiring. Haldex coupling requires fresh oil and filter every 20,000 miles. ■ Brakes, suspension and wheels: Check the ABS light goes out on startup – it could indicate trouble with the pump control unit. On a rough road, listen for front suspension knocks suggesting worn top mounts. Check the vulnerable Talladega alloys. ■ Body: Check for fresh paint, overspray on window rubbers and under door handles, and for uneven panel gaps. ■ Interior: The hard-wearing cabin is a clocker’s delight, so check it all works and that the mileage is accurate. Also worth knowing At insurewithvolkswagen.co.uk, you can buy a 12-month warranty for your Golf R. For our ‘One we found’ (below), they quoted all-component cover (there’s cheaper named cover, too) at £691 with a £250 excess and a 10,000- mile
Origin: Used car buying guide: Volkswagen Golf R (Mk6)
Nearly-new buying guide: Jaguar XF
The XF saloon under the microscope here plays the evolutionary card better even than a BMW 5 Series, being almost indistinguishable from the original XF of 2008-15 that preceded it. Look harder, though, and under its stylish body it marks a genuinely new chapter in the model’s story. Its aluminium-rich structure is lighter and stronger, its engines are a new generation of powerplants named Ingenium, the cabin is roomier and it features smarter infotainment and better materials. Prices for the first 2015-registered cars open at around £12,500 for the lowest-powered diesel, the 161bhp 2.0-litre, with around 60,000 miles. If mileage isn’t a worry, you can buy cheaper still, with a 112,000-mile 2016-reg example we found costing just £10,800. That’s from an independent dealer, by the way. At the time of writing, the cheapest official Jaguar approved used XF was a 2014-reg 2.2 TD, a Mk1 model, with 50,000 miles for £12,500. Given how similar the two generations look, it helps to know, when searching for an early Mk2 car, that its dominant engines are 2.0-litre diesels, whereas Mk1 cars are 2.2s. As with the Mk1, the Mk2 XF is bought new as a business tool. It’s why the 2.0-litre diesel engine – in 161bhp, top-selling 178bhp and, launched in 2017, 237bhp outputs – dominates the used car classifieds. It’s available in the three core trims, too. All have alloy wheels, bi-xenon headlights, powered leather seats and, depending on the power, a choice of manual or eight-speed ZF automatic gearboxes. If you want luxury, go with Portfolio, but if something more sporty is your bag, choose R-Sport, with its bodykit and firmer suspension. The rarer and less tax-efficient 2.0-litre turbocharged petrol engines also come in three power outputs (197bhp, 247bhp and 296bhp) but are all automatics. As with the more powerful diesels, some are available in four-wheel drive. For a low-mileage used car buyer, a 2.0i petrol has its attractions. However, the petrol engines arrived only in 2017, are fewer in number and tend to have lower mileages. As a result, prices start at around £20,000, or £25,000 for our pick, a 2017-reg 2.0i 250PS R-Sport with 15,000 miles. The big guns in the Mk2 lineup are 3.0-litre V6s. The diesel is turbocharged and makes 296bhp and the petrol is supercharged to the tune of 375bhp. Both come in S trim with a bodykit and adaptive dampers. We found a 2015 petrol 3.0i S with 35,000 miles for £22,995 but a same-age 3.0D S diesel with 70,000 miles for £16,745. Torquier and more economical, it’s the diesel we’d buy. Whichever version you go for, you need to understand that the XF isn’t the most reliable car. In the last What Car? reliability survey, it came bottom in the luxury car class below the BMW 5 Series and Mercedes-Benz E-Class. If you buy one, make sure it has a belt and braces warranty. Need to know ‘Total Recall’ should have starred the XF. Alerts include a cracked inner sill, engine cutout, possibility of sundry fuel leaks, failure to achieve the CO2 emissions limit, problems with the safety restraint systems and the possibility of the instrument cluster going blank. There’s more… Among premium makers, Jaguar’s approved used scheme is unique in offering a two-year, unlimited-mileage warranty. Certain consequential damages, where a failed component causes others to fail, are also covered. Look out for upgraded XFs. For example, shortly after launch, it was possible to upgrade the infotainment to InControl Touch Pro, and V6 cars could be specced with Adaptive and Configurable Dynamics that vary damping, steering and drivetrain responses. Our pick XF 2.0D 240PS R-Sport Auto: Expensive new but we’re talking used, so the powerful 240PS diesel gets the nod over the 180. R-Sport sharpens the looks but its stiffer suspension set-up doesn’t unsettle the XF’s ride. Wild card XF 3.0 V6 380PS S: New, it cost around £55,000 but you can pick up a 2018-reg example of one of these beauties for £35,000. If you have to ask about its fuel economy, you can’t afford it. Ones we found 2015 2.0D 163PS Prestige, 64,000 miles, £12,599 2016 2.0D 180PS Portfolio auto, 61,000 miles, £15,995 2017 2.0i 250PS R-Sport auto, 15,000 miles, £25,000 2018 3.0D 300PS Portfolio auto, 3000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Jaguar XF
Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz R-Class
One of Mercedes’ barmier ideas, the R63 L AMG was a 510bhp, four-wheel drive MPV, estate and saloon rolled into one with a top speed electronically limited to 155mph and a 0-62mph sprint time of 4.6sec. It cost £74,115 and slurped unleaded at the rate of 17mpg. They rarely come up for sale in the UK (few found homes here), but look across the pond to the US, the supersized R-Class’s natural home, and there are plenty at around $40,000 (£31,000) plus, if you fancy importing one, shipping and taxes on top. Not that you need, or should, go to that trouble because you may just find its saner alternative, the R500, buried deep in the UK’s sales ads, as we have. The 2006-registered car has done 105,000 miles and is up for £4490. Its 5.0-litre V8 produces 302bhp, cracks 0-62mph in 7.0sec and ‘sips’ fuel at the rate of 20mpg. But why prattle on about these utterly irrelevant versions? Because as an unsexy beast, the R-Class could use a bit of excitement. It’s just a monster estate, after all. Or is it? In fact, it’s also a properly spacious six-seat people-carrier (there were five and seven-seat configurations, too) with individual seats for all. Four-wheel drive and air suspension were optional and a seven-speed automatic gearbox was standard. It was launched in 2006 in standard and long-wheelbase (almost a foot longer) forms, with power from a couple of petrol engines, including the aforementioned 5.0-litre V8, and, more pertinently, a 3.0-litre V6 diesel producing 221bhp and badged 320 CDI. This engine dominates the classifieds but, like the diesel motors that followed it, it has its problems, as we outline below. The R63 followed and then came the 187bhp R280 CDI, a more frugal version of the 320 CDI. In 2009, the 280 was renamed the 300 CDI (rear-wheel drive only) and then, with the facelift in 2010, the 320 morphed into the 265bhp 350 CDI 4Matic (four-wheel drive). It can do 0-62mph in 7.6sec – not far off the R500 and swifter through the gears with it. The petrol engines, meanwhile, went the way of all things. The facelift brought a refreshed nose, BlueEfficiency engine technologies (you need to keep an eye on the AdBlue tank) and extra kit. At the same time, the model became a seven-seater only. Throughout the R-Class’s life, the standard specification was generous (brake assist, climate and cruise control, and automatic headlights and windscreen wipers). SE trim brought powered leather seats and Sport laid it on with 19in alloy wheels, Alcantara sports seats and bits of aluminium here and there. Today, it’s the trim to have. There’s no escaping the fact that a used R-Class looks like a bit of a dinosaur, in more ways than one, but that’s why it’s also such great value. Find a facelifted, 2009-reg 350 CDI 4Matic with full service history and 90,000 miles for around £7000 and you’ll have a family taxi like no other. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Martin Lalor, director, RPL Automotive: “We have around 12 R-Class cars through the workshop each year so it’s not that common. However, the 3.0-litre V6 diesel engine, codenamed OM642 and used in the 280, 320 and 350 CDIs and many other Mercedes models, has a number of well-known problems (see below). On all Mercedes of its generation, we are replacing more steel brake lines as rust takes a hold. Those issues aside, we’ve found the R-Class to be reliable. It’s big, but not much more so than an ML and a lot more usable. The long-wheelbase version is a genuine seven-seater.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: On the 3.0-litre V6 diesels, the electric motor driving the inlet port swirl flaps can give trouble. The engine warning light and limp home mode may be the first you’ll know of it. The oil cooler sits in the middle of the engine and its gaskets go hard, causing oil leaks between it and the block (expensive to fix). Extended engine cranking on start-up may be tired glow plugs. Look for heavy carbon deposits around the injectors (called ‘Black Death’). Listen for timing chain rattles from cold. The R350 petrol can suffer failed balancer shaft sprockets at around 60k miles. ■ Transmission: The seven-speed automatic gearbox requires regular fluid changes to stay sweet. A tired ’box will often stick in second or shift sluggishly. ■ Brakes and suspension: Broken springs and, if fitted, leaking air suspension bellows are common. (The car will sit awkwardly.) Listen for knocking from the front, suggesting worn anti-roll bar links. Check the steel brake lines for rust, discs for heavy lipping and pads for thickness. ■ Electrics: Expect some electrical issues, not least with the radio and instrument cluster. ■ Body: Check for bubbling around the rear wheel arches and for heavy corrosion of the rear subframes. ■ Interior: Ensure the air-con system works and the seats recline and fold. Also worth knowing V6 diesel engines from 2010 have reformulated seals in the oil cooler designed to address an oil
Origin: Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz R-Class
Nearly-new buying guide: Mazda 3
Given Mazda’s fondness for clever engineering and doing things its own sweet way, any new model from the Japanese car maker is always worth getting excited about. And so it was with the Mazda 3 of 2014. It has just been replaced by an all-new model, but as late as last year the outgoing car was still getting the better of fresher rivals. In this magazine it found itself in the final four of an eight-car group test battling the Skoda Octavia, Volkswagen Golf and new Ford Focus for top honours. It came third, but Matt Saunders was moved enough to say that he couldn’t have picked a tougher dynamic test for the Focus than to compare it with the Mazda 3. He was referring to the hatchback version, by the way. There’s also a saloon, called the Fastback, but the hatch is easily the more popular and the one we’re interested in here. The model has only just been replaced, so you can still pick up 2019/19-registered cars with a couple of thousand miles from around £16,000. At this money, many are high-spec 2.2d SE-L Nav and Sport Nav models. If you’re a high-mileage driver or just like the idea of 60mpg without trying, these 148bhp 2.2-litre diesel versions are a good choice – and decent performers. There’s a 104bhp 1.5 diesel, too, introduced in 2016, but it’s weedy and rare. If you must, you can pick up a 2018/18 SE-L Nav with 5000 miles for £14,000. Really, because there are more to choose from and they suit the Mazda 3’s light-footed nature better, it’s the petrols you want to focus on. At various times the model was offered with a choice of three petrol engines: a 1.5 with a lowly 99bhp (it was dropped in 2016) and a pair of 2.0s, one making 118bhp and the other with a healthy 163bhp. Typical of Mazda’s go-it-alone approach, none is turbocharged. The company claims that, as a result, they produce better real-world economy. In any case, they pull strongly enough from low revs, although they do feel a little flat in the mid-range. Our pick is the 118bhp 2.0 for its blend of performance, economy and price. The more powerful 163bhp motor should be a blast but produces the same 115lb ft at the same 4000rpm as the 118bhp version, so is little quicker while being more expensive. A 2016/66-reg Mazda 3 2.0 120PS Sport with 10,000 miles costs around £13,250, compared with £14,000 for a 165PS model. The model was facelifted in 2016 when it gained a revised grille, improved interior materials and an electronic parking brake. Throughout, trims ranged from entry-level SE to Sport Nav. Automatic emergency braking and alloys were standard. SE-L is a good choice, with its rear parking sensors and climate control, and it rides sweetly on its 16in wheels. It’d be our pick, except that Sport Nav trim, with its larger wheels and sportier instrument display, appeals to the emotions more. Need to know Safety recalls have been a feature of the 3. They number around five and range from inoperable windscreen wipers, through a software error that can cause engine failure to poorly tightened fuel injector mounting nuts – all careless oversights for a Japanese manufacturer. Mazda otherwise has a good reputation for sweating over small technical issues until it cracks them. The 3’s 2017 facelift introduced the company’s G-Vectoring Control system, which stabilises the car in corners by automatically backing off the throttle a touch when it senses a change in steering angle. If you like pin-sharp radio reception, avoid early models – they had no digital radio. And, incidentally, no Apple CarPlay. Our pick Mazda 3 2.0 120ps Sport Nav: Strong performance, a BOSE sound system and a head-up display are this version’s highlights, although the 18in wheels spoil the ride. An approved used 2014-reg car with 50,000 miles is £8795. Wild card Mazda 3 2.2 150ps TD SE: The big 2.2-litre diesel is an oddball in this class but does the business, returning 60mpg and, thanks to 280lb ft, pulling like a train. A 2015-reg example with 48,000 miles is £8500. Ones we found 2015 Mazda 3 2.2 TD SE, 61,000 miles, £7000 2016 Mazda 3 2.0 120PS SE Nav, 44,000 miles, £8495 2017 Mazda 3 2.0 120PS SE Nav, 35,000 miles, £10,495 2018 Mazda 3 2.0 120PS Sport Nav 21,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Mazda 3
Used car buying guide: Peugeot 207 GTI
In Dirty Harry, Clint Eastwood may as well have handed the keys of a used Peugeot 207 GTi to the criminal lying before him on the ground as suggest he weigh up the possibility of him having a sixth bullet in his Magnum. Do all the pre-purchase checks you like but, ultimately, whether the Peugeot’s timing chain is about to slip, taking the engine with it, is simply a matter of luck. It’s all to do with the hydraulic chain tensioner fitted to the model’s Prince engine. You hear it first as a rattle from cold. As the oil heats up and circulates, it fades away, leaving you to think it wasn’t anything serious until one day… crunch: you and your bargain 207 GTi are friends no more. And it is a bargain. Just £800 is all you need for a weary 2007-reg 207 GTi, and £2500 should be enough for something clean and straightforward with a good service history. The most expensive ones are around £3000 but we did come across a 2009-reg Octane special edition with 67,000 miles and described as being in mint condition for a bullish £4750. The last ones were registered in 2009, so given that the model was launched in 2007, you’ve only three years’ worth of used 207 GTis to pick over, although those built from 2008 have, according to mechanics who work on them, better chain tensioners. They have better cylinder heads, too. Worryingly, earlier ones were prone to shedding alloy flakes into the engine. Otherwise, the Prince engine is a gamey lump. It may have only 1.6 litres, but thanks to its twin-scroll turbocharger, it produces 175bhp. Not only that but it also generates a handy 180lb ft torque that can be over-boosted to 195lb ft. Either way, the turbocharger starts working from as low as 1000rpm. All that muscle and the gearbox still has only five gears but they’re well chosen and, in any case, the engine thrives on revs. Your £800, or £4750, buys a restrained bodykit complemented by smoked glass, 17in alloy wheels and twin tailpipes. Inside the car, you should find a pair of deep leather and Alcantara bucket seats (expect the side bolsters to be mushy by now) and an alloy gear knob and pedals. Incidentally, if the gearlever has a long, loose-limbed throw, don’t worry. It’s what sales people would call a ‘characteristic of the car’. Put simply, they all do it and from day one, too. The ride should be on the uncomfortable side of firm. If it’s not, suspect the condition of the suspension bushes. Grip levels should be high, unless it’s running worn or cheap rubber. The 207 GTi isn’t a five-star hot hatch and, in truth, it’s probably not a four, either. But the beauty of cheap old motors like it is that such ratings are nothing compared with the simple pleasure of enjoying some thrills on the cheap – and cheap thrills are exactly what a Peugeot 207 GTi offers. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Greg Erskin, general manager, Ecosse: “I wouldn’t have a 207 GTI, certainly not one built before 2008, if you gave it to me. The timing chain tensioner is the big issue. It sticks or becomes weak, allowing the chain to slacken off, and then you’re in serious trouble. The other problem area is the cylinder head. Those on early cars were poorly machined and you’d get bits of metal dropping into the engine. Otherwise, things like the gearbox and suspension just suffer the usual wear and tear issues. The engine can be remapped for around £375 while a dump valve is a popular aftermarket add-on.” Buyer beware ■ Timing chain tensioner: A weak spot on early cars. Listen for chain slap and other noises when the engine is cold and idling. Fresh oil is critical to tensioner life so check oil services have been performed on time (yearly or every 6000 miles). ■ Carbon build-up: Listen for misfiring possibly caused by carbon build-up on the backs of the inlet valves. Premium unleaded fuel can help reduce accumulations. ■ Turbocharger: Inspect the exhaust manifold, turbo housing and twin-scroll divide for hairline cracks. Check the compressor outlet pipe and, by removing the downpipe, the turbo housing for oil contamination, both indicating a worn turbo. ■ Cooling system: Look for coolant leaks from the plastic thermostat housing. Fluid can pool on the top of the transmission. ■ Gearbox: Feel for worn synchros on second and third and feel for the clutch slipping. ■ Brakes, suspension and steering: The ABS pump is another weak spot so ensure the warning light isn’t on. Check pad and disc life and the MOT for advisories relating to droplinks, wishbones, gaiters and excessive steering play. ■ Bodywork: Expect dings and scrapes but be wary of uneven panel gaps. Blocked windscreen drains divert water to the fuse box, so check these are clear. ■ Interior: Check all controls work and warning lights go out after engine start-up. Also worth knowing Given a GTi is no five-star hot hatch and likely to have been driven hard, you might be wise also to check out the 148bhp GT version. Doing so will boost the
Origin: Used car buying guide: Peugeot 207 GTI
Nearly-new buying guide: Maserati Ghibli
If you’ve ever wanted to go to a Ferrari dealership for your next used car, then buy an approved used Ghibli. Many Maserati dealers share their premises with the fabled brand, so when you stroll onto a Maserati forecourt in search of a used Trident, you may find yourself rubbing shoulders with 488s and the like. Better still, the experience may cost you from as little as £25,000 – what one dealer is asking for a 2016- reg Ghibli V6 diesel with 26,000 miles. If that’s below your price range, how about the most expensive we found, a pre-registered 2019 Ghibli V6 GranSport for £66,457? That’s £1600 more expensive than the model’s current new price, but as you’ll find when you go Ghibli hunting, prices can be inflated by options packs costing up to £3000 and limited-edition packs costing up to £5500. Happily, like all options, they depreciate faster than the car they’re fitted to. And don’t avoid them, because some, such as the driver assistance packs, have useful driver and safety aids. The Ghibli was launched in 2013 and tasked with putting a rocket up the brand’s global sales. Key to the plan was the diesel version, powered by a 3.0-litre V6 making 271bhp. Today, this version dominates the used car classifieds, outnumbering the other engines – 345bhp, 404bhp and 424bhp twin-turbo 3.0-litre V6 petrols – by around two to one. At this point it’s usual to recommend that high-mileage drivers go for a diesel over a petrol. And so we do in the case of the Ghibli V6d, pausing only to mention that in Autocar’s hands it typically returned an economy figure in the low 30s. Still, that’s better than the petrols, which manage around 10mpg less. However, the petrols suit the Ghibli’s image rather better, especially the more powerful 404bhp S version, which, following the model’s facelift in 2017, gained an extra 20bhp. Alas, it was dropped in 2018, so today only the standard 345bhp petrol is available new. Maserati claimed the facelifted Ghibli was 70% all new but, aside from the engine, the only obvious changes were more aggressive looks and a new infotainment system, plus the arrival of two new trim levels: GranSport and GranLusso. Dig down, though, and you’ll find the steering went from being hydraulic to a faster and lighter but more precise electric system. The car also gained a raft of new safety and driver assistance features, at least as options. Pre- and post-facelift, the Ghibli sends its power to the rear wheels via an eight-speed ZF automatic gearbox. It can be controlled by steering wheel-mounted paddles on top-spec versions. These same versions also have Skyhook adaptive suspension. It’s an option on other trims and worth looking out for over the optional sports suspension. ‘You’re not like everyone else’ is Maserati’s slogan for the new Ghibli. It applies just as much to a used one starting at half the price. Need to know The Ghibli has been the subject of a number of safety recalls: possible short circuit in driver’s seat wiring, possible loss of vehicle control, risk of the throttle sticking, a fuel line leak and the possibility of the vehicle moving away after the driver has exited it. What might be regarded as essentials on a luxury car are only available as options on the Ghibli. They include a rear parking camera, a blind spot detector and a wi-fi hotspot. Look out for them on used cars. Options packs are popular with new buyers. Ones to look out for on used Ghiblis include the Premium Pack (powered steering column and front seats with memory) and Driver Assistance Pack Plus (with a surround view camera). Our pick Ghibli V6 S (2017 on): The post-2017 S enjoys a 20bhp uplift over the earlier S, giving a power output of 424bhp and 0-62mph in 4.9sec. A pity it was later dropped from the range. Ghibli V6D Gransport Nerissimo Edition: Pretty rare but worth the hunt for a bling-rich specification that includes Zegna fabric, polished silver brake calipers and Nero dashboard and carpets. Looks best in Bianco Alpi. Ones we found 2014 Ghibli 3.0 TD, 65,000 miles, £17,499 2015 Ghibli 3.0 TD, 29,000 miles, £22,300 2016 Ghibli 3.0 V6, 39,000 miles, £27,000 2018 Ghibli 3.0 V6, 5000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Maserati Ghibli
Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz CLK 55 AMG
All hail the used car market, which has produced another supercar bargain in the shape of the CLK 55 AMG of 2002- 06. Note, not the first-gen version launched in 2000 and powered by a 342bhp 5.4-litre V8; no, we’re talking about the more powerful – with 367bhp – second-generation model. Being AMG, that’s a hand-assembled V8, of course. On the plaque affixed to the rocker cover is scrawled the engine builder’s signature. Owners gamely trade their names, like train spotters. One we spoke to refers to his engine’s builder, one Rosario Indorre, in tones you might reserve for a close friend… Still, if you’ve ever driven a 55, you can understand why owners hold these people in such high regard. Tales of electronics problems and body corrosion abound, but there are few complaints about a 55’s engine. It drives the rear wheels via a five-speed automatic gearbox. That sounds a bit tame in this age of nine-speeders, but it’s a tough transmission taken from the more powerful S-Class V12. It also features AMG’s ultra-smooth Speedshift system that you can operate with light sideways shifts of the lever or by rapid presses of the steering wheel-mounted F1-style paddles. Underneath its tight-fitting body, the 55, in coupé and convertible forms, sits on a stiffened and strengthened C-Class chassis. It’s especially evident in the cabrio, which should be rock-solid over bumps. The suspension has stronger springs, larger-diameter roll bars and stiffer bushes, but it’s a heavy car and front control arms take a hammering, as do front tyres. In fact, they can wear as fast as the driven rears. Despite its supercar-baiting performance, the 55 is a discreet-looking motor, an impression borne of its modest 18in wheels, subtle bootlid spoiler and undersized twin tailpipes. The equivalent BMW M3 is shoutier (and more of a hooligan to drive) but it’s the CLK’s discretion that draws out buyers today. Owner Mark Anthony (below) bought a 55 over the M3 for what he regarded as its classier image. That impression continues inside, where two-tone leather, chrome-ringed white dials and AMG-embossed aluminium sill plates remind you you’re in something rather special. Being a Mercedes, and one costing more than a Porsche 911 when new, expect the one you’re interested in to have at least a few options fitted. One worth looking for is the carbon and alloy fascia pack. A full Merc history is nice to see but there are excellent specialists well versed in the ways of older AMGs. In any case, often it’s the electronics that can let a 55 down, and for those you only need the right diagnostics kit plus a good head for fault tracing. The 55 is a terrific car but doesn’t quite have the cachet of the equivalent M3. Fortunately, most prices reflect this. Find a good one, pay sensible money for it and you and Rosario could be friends for life. An owner’s view Mark Anthony, Mercedes CLK 55 owner: “I’ve got a 2006/06 cabrio with 49,000 miles. It’s rock-solid with no scuttle shake. I wanted a supercar with more class than an M3, and it needed to be fun. The CLK ticked all the boxes. Don’t ask about economy – you buy a car like this to have fun. Mechanically, I can’t fault it but the electrics have let me down. First an ECU (£400), then a sensor that prevented it starting. When buying, check the gearbox and adaptive suspension are okay – I’ve had a few arms and bushes go. You won’t know about electronic faults until they happen.” Buyer beware Engines: Have someone rev the engine while you check how much it moves on its mountings (too much and the ECU will reduce power). Check for rocker cover oil leaks and the condition of the front pulley. Check service receipts to see when the spark plugs were changed – there are 16 and they’re not cheap. Gearbox: Cycle the gearbox through the gears from cold, feeling for shunting and knocks. The selector can stick in first but it’s a relatively cheap fix. On early cars with the Valeo radiator, check coolant isn’t leaking into the gearbox. Brakes, suspension and wheels: Feel for heavy lipping on the edges of the discs (OE discs are expensive) and check pad thickness. Front suspension arms are a routine replacement item. The suspension is firm so don’t mistake regular noises for anything serious. The front tyres can take a hammering from the sheer weight of the engine. Electrics: There are ECUs everywhere, including the boot, so check they’re not exposed to dampness by lifting carpets. The windscreen scuttle gets blocked, diverting water to the cabin. Body: Look for rust on rear wheel arches and sills, and also behind the bodykit and undertrays. Interior: Generally tough, but for the best prices avoid anything scratched, torn and knocked about. Check everything works and that all warning lights illuminate first, before then going out. Also worth knowing The secret to running a CLK 55 is budgeting. A warranty will cover unexpected bills but for routine servicing a good garage should
Origin: Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz CLK 55 AMG
Nearly-new buying guide: Ford Kuga
There was a Ford Cougar once; a family-size coupé based on the Mondeo Mk2. It was a handy thing that, in range-topping 2.5 V6 guise, could do 0-62mph in 8.2sec. Although it’s spelt differently, the Kuga, launched in 2013, at least sounds the same and, with the right engine, promises to be almost as much fun. It’s a family SUV rather than a coupé, so where the Cougar was sleek and low, the Kuga is tall and chunky. It’s based on the Focus Mk3 and is the model we think of when searching for an example of a fine-handling mainstream SUV. Like most cars, the Kuga can be split into pre- and post-facelift generations. The latter arrived in 2016 and is characterised by restyled front and rear ends, the availability of a new 118bhp 1.5-litre TDCi diesel engine, an improved infotainment system within a more comfortable interior and extra driver assistance tech. If only for its striking-looking trapezoidal grille first seen on the Edge, Ford’s larger SUV, it’s the generation to buy and not as expensive as you might fear, with a 2017-reg 1.5 TDCi Zetec with 20,000 miles costing £13,350. Over the years, the engine range has expanded to include busy little Ecoboost petrols pushing out 118bhp to one producing 174bhp, although saddled with four-wheel drive and an automatic gearbox as standard. They’re pleasant to punt along as well as cheap to run if your mileage is low, but if you’re a Kuga person with the kind of active lifestyle the brochure depicts, one of the diesels is a better choice – something like the mid-power 148bhp 2.0 TDCi. This engine has a braked towing capacity of 1800kg but add four-wheel drive and an automatic gearbox and it can shift 2100kg, the same as the 178bhp 2.0 TDCi, which has four-wheel drive as standard. If you’re into dragging boats off the beach, four-wheel drive is perfect, but for most situations, a standard two-wheel-drive Kuga is just fine. The six-speed dual-clutch Powershift transmission is a good one, by the way, and worth seeking out. Ubiquitous Zetec trim opens the batting but it’s Titanium, the next one up, that’s easily the most plentiful on the used market. To the Zetec’s respectable roster of kit (alloys, a digital radio, air-con and a heated windscreen), Titanium adds larger wheels, partial leather trim, climate control and rear parking sensors. It’s our favourite, but if you must spoil the ride, have sports-suspended ST-Line trim. For reasons best known to itself, Ford unleashed a luxo-spec Vignale on impressionable buyers in 2016. Still, it’s not all bad since today’s canny buyer can pick up a 2017/17-reg 2.0 TDCi 150 Vignale with 17,000 miles for £17,000, compared with a current new price of £33,690. Ford was one of the first with an approved used marketing scheme. It promises full service history and cars covered by the balance of their original three-year warranty. Need to know The Kuga has been subject to a number of safety recalls, including potential cracking of the cylinder head, the B-pillar trim being too close to the seatbelt pre-tensioner, the possibility of the clutch pressure plate fracturing, the knee airbag not deploying and the risk of the sump cracking. Surprisingly, given the Kuga’s otherwise strong safety credentials, automatic emergency braking is an option rather than standard. Worse still, it’s not available with Zetec trim at all. Meanwhile, its five-star Euro NCAP rating was awarded as long ago as 2012, since when the test has been toughened up. If you like to have the driver’s seat just so, electrically powered 10-way adjustment is available from Titanium trim upwards. Our pick Kuga 2.0 TDCI 150 Titanium: This version boasts good performance and economy, while Titanium builds on Zetec with things such as a sat-nav and parking sensors. An approved used 2017/ 17-reg with 10,000 miles is £14,500. Wild card Kuga 1.5 Ecoboost 176 Zetec Nav Auto 4WD: Slower than less powerful versions due to its being four-wheel drive and automatic means this orphan in the range is great value used, with a 3000-mile 2018/68-reg one costing £17,500. Ones we found 2013 Kuga 2.0 TDCi Titanium, 120,000 miles, £7795 2015 Kuga 2.0 TDCi Zetec, 74,000 miles, £9283 2017 Kuga 1.5 TDCi Zetec, 25,000 miles, £11,200 2018 Kuga 1.5 Ecoboost Zetec, 15,000 miles
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Ford Kuga
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