The Volkswagen Eos is a member of that select group of hatchback-derived coupé-cabriolets that graced the noughties and included the Ford Focus, Vauxhall Astra, Peugeot 308 and Renault Mégane. Of them all, though, the Eos was the poshest, a status reflected in its higher price. Fortunately, since production ceased in 2014, its prices have fallen to the extent that you can pick one up for around £700, although at that level you want to be sure the model’s temperamental roof works. Prices peak at around £14,000 for a 2014- reg 2.0 TDI with 20,000 miles. That seems a lot for a car that is based on the old Golf Mk5 and went out of production 10 years ago, so we’d settle for something in between, such as a facelifted, 2011-reg 1.4 TSI for around £7500. The Eos was launched in 2006 and lauded for its spacious 2+2 cabin, roomy boot (at least until the folded roof occupied most of it) and good handling. However, the highest praise was reserved for its stiff bodyshell and a metal folding roof that incorporates a sliding sunroof. Buyers were never short of engines to choose from. From launch to that 2011 facelift mentioned earlier, there was a 113bhp 1.6 FSI (underpowered for the heavy Eos), a 147bhp 2.0 FSI, a 197bhp 2.0T-FSI (one of the best and in Sport trim only) and a 3.2 V6 producing 247bhp that makes a good, relaxed cruiser. Note the emphasis on petrol engines there. The lone diesel was a 138bhp 2.0 TDI. The thing is, if you want a good selection of petrols to choose from, a pre-facelift Eos is where to look because the diesel didn’t really catch on. From the 2011 facelift, it was all change, with the market favouring the torquey 138bhp 2.0 TDI at the expense of the new 121bhp 1.4 TSI, the 158bhp 1.4 TSI with turbocharger and supercharger (it’s the most rounded) and the 208bhp 2.0 TSI from the Golf GTI. With the facelift, the Eos also acquired a simpler but smarter grille and a restyled bonnet and wings. At the back, the comical round tail-lights were given the heave-ho in favour of slimmer, more toned-down affairs. Versions with leather trim gained a new finish capable of reflecting the sun’s rays. The popularity of the diesel version after 2011 is a clue to the model’s appeal to business users, so check the one you’re looking at hasn’t been flogged and neglected. In any case, it’s an EU5 engine so subject to creeping emissions penalties and tougher MOT tests. Really, you want to find one of the petrol models, but avoid the earlier 1.6 FSI. And if you must have the DSG auto, ensure you opt for the facelift model, when the ’box was improved. (Earlier ones must have their oil changed every 40,000 miles or else.) Apologies for what follows… but find a good one and an Eos, the Greek goddess of dawn, could be the dawn of a new era in your motoring. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Phil Harding, VW Service Centre (Gosport): “There are a few issues with the Eos, mostly concerning the roof and making sure the drain holes are clear. Neglect them and in a rain storm the car can quickly resemble a goldfish bowl. Otherwise, the roof is really special. It’s made of steel and glass and even incorporates a sunroof so that it still feels light and airy when the main roof is closed. One thing: check if the engine is belt or chain driven. VW had issues with tensioners failing, causing the chain to jump and destroy the engine. At least a belt has specified replacement intervals.” Buyer beware… ■ Engines: Listen for rough running, which could be air leaks in the breather hoses and/ or carbon deposits fouling the fuel injectors and forming on the backs of inlet valves and diverter flaps. Check the oil level as TSI petrols can drink it. ■ Transmission: The DSG auto gearbox in the first-generation Eos suffered occasional shift issues. Jerky and snatchy changes suggest failure is imminent. ■ Suspension and brakes: The Eos is a heavy car so check the condition of brake discs and pads. On the test drive, feel for a hard pedal and reduced braking effort, suggesting the brake servo pipes are leaking. Springs and suspension bushes can take a pounding, too. Insist the car has a new MOT, proof that at least what play there is in the suspension system is acceptable. ■ Roof: Check the hood operates smoothly and the multi-plugs that channel power for the hood controller aren’t corroded. Ensure drain channels aren’t blocked and inspect the rubber roof seals. ■ Interior and boot: A freshly valeted and scented Eos may be disguising previously damp carpets and a musty smell. If possible, check it when it has dried out. Water can get under the carpets and damage the roof’s control unit. Make sure the boot is dry since water can get in here, too, and corrode the roof pump. Also worth knowing Cayman Autos, a specialist in convertible roof repairs, claims it sees Eos cars with troublesome roofs quite often. Common issues are dry or perished seals, water ingress via the boot and the
Origin: Used car buying guide: Volkswagen Eos
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Nearly-new buying guide: Mk3 Mini hatch
The lazy charge that all new cars are the same these days could never be levelled at the current Mini under the spotlight here or, indeed, any Mini before it. Despite being bigger, safer and better equipped than ever before, it retains its forebears’ cheeky charm. It was launched in 2014 in three and, for the first time, five-door bodystyles. The latter was made possible by the new car’s longer body, designed to boost space in the rear cabin and the boot. It was a success, there now being room for a couple of six-footers to make themselves reasonably comfortable. If you want to make the 211-litre boot a little bigger, the back seats split and fold. Up front, the five-door is much like the three-door, with ample room for driver and passenger to find their ideal position. The new car was launched with a choice of petrol and diesel engines, although fast-forward to 2019 and only the petrols survive. Back in 2014, we were less squeamish, with the entry-level One being available with a 1.2 petrol or 1.5 diesel motor, the warmish Cooper with a 1.5 petrol or diesel and the properly warm Cooper S with an unfeasibly large 2.0-litre petrol or diesel. The range-topping John Cooper Works (three-door only) got a more powerful version of the 2.0-litre petrol. A used Cooper isn’t much more expensive than a One, and the better buy, but a Cooper S is a lot more fun and good value. Meanwhile, the John Cooper Works is not quite as on point as its high price would have you think. There are cheaper and more rounded but no less incisive rivals out there. High-mileage One Ds dominate the cheaper end of the classifieds. They’re economical but, if you’re a townie, the petrols are the way to go. The biggest adventure most buyers of a new Mini ever had is navigating their way through the options list. Low on food and water, most wave the white flag and shout for the Chili pack. In 2016, this gained LED headlights, while two more, called Tech Pack (it has a head-up display) and Yours Pack (styling tweaks), joined the range. These and the other option packs can add visual and functional appeal but remember that, like most options, they depreciate faster than the Mini they’re fitted to. Four years after launch, in 2018 Mini One and Cooper got a shot in the arm thanks to some styling and infotainment updates, chief among them being the adoption of Union flag tail-lights. And then later that year, new styles called Classic, Sport and Exclusive that helped simplify the selection process as well as, more pertinently, streamline the new WLTP testing protocol, came into play. With prices spanning £4500 for a 2015 One D to £38,000 for a 2018-reg John Cooper Works, there’s probably a Mk3 Mini to suit your pocket. Need to know If you like the convenience of an automatic gearbox or it’s all you’re entitled to drive, it’s worth knowing that in late 2017 the Mini’s old six-speed torque converter was replaced by a smart seven-speed double-clutch affair that’s more efficient. The Mini has no allowance for towing and there’s no approved towbar, so forget hitching up that trailer tent for your holidays. Meanwhile, roof boxes will only fit the original equipment roof rails, and they’re an expensive aftermarket add-on. Mini’s TLC servicing package is an option available to first owners. It covers servicing for the car’s first three years or 36,000 miles. It’s transferable so it’s worth checking if a used Mini has it, which you can do on the Mini website. Our pick Cooper S 2.0 3dr: Quicker – just – than a Ford Fiesta ST from 0-62mph and over the quarter mile, and with lashings of mid-range torque for spirited in-gear sprints, it’s the Mini range’s sweet spot. Wild card Mini One 1.2: Silly looking on standard skinny tyres and not as economical as the Cooper but the three-pot is decently torquey, while the steering and handling are as delightful as ever. Ones we found 2015 Cooper 1.5 D 3dr, 78,000 miles, £5800 2016 Cooper 1.5 3dr, 40,000 miles, £6995 2017 Cooper 1.5 D 5dr, 32,000 miles, £10,110 2018 Cooper S 2.0 3dr, 10,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Mk3 Mini hatch
Nearly-new buying guide: Nissan Qashqai
The car that created a whole new model class is now in its second generation and past its first facelift, to boot. That happened in 2017 when the Mk2 Qashqai, under the microscope here, received a thorough refresh of its design, finish, equipment and refinement. It was all a bid to keep this family-sized SUV ahead of its rivals, competition that its predecessor had spawned the moment it first rolled off the production line 12 years ago. My, how the motoring world was wrong-footed by that first Qashqai. It has since made up for lost time but Sunderland’s compact marvel isn’t giving up without a fight and makes a cracking used car. Ignoring the many high-milers out there, prices for Mk2 Qashqais (they came out in 2014) start at around £8500 for a tidy 2014/64-reg 1.2 DiG-T Acenta with 30,000 miles. For those with deeper pockets, 2017-facelift cars kick off at around £12,000 for a 2017/67-reg 1.5 dCi Acenta in a bright colour and with 20,000 miles. If you like your used car wrapped and tied with a bow, check out Nissan’s approved used stocks. There are the usual benefits, including a 12-month warranty and a 30-day/1000-mile exchange promise as well as a free courtesy car at service time and free roadside assistance when you have it serviced by a Nissan dealer. So what do you get for your money? Not seven seats, that’s for sure. The Mk2 Qashqai is a five-seater only. If you must have seven chairs, check out either a Mk1 Qashqai+2 or the current Nissan X-Trail. Otherwise, you’re getting an exceptionally well-rounded, car-like SUV with decent cabin and boot space, a stylish and comfortable interior, impressive ride and handling, and efficient engines. Two-wheel drive versions get a torsion beam rear axle and four-wheel-drive ones a more sophisticated multi-link arrangement as well as respectable off-roading manners. But it’s two-wheel drive that most buyers vote for. Top of their agenda is value for money and low running costs. On these measures, the Mk2 Qashqai doesn’t disappoint. There’s a gaggle of engines but, for undemanding, low-mileage drivers, we recommend the 113bhp 1.2 DiG-T petrol. It accelerates smoothly, cruises easily on the motorway and returns up to 45mpg. For higher mileage, the 1.5 dCi diesel is more suitable. It’s a flexible, refined and willing unit. It’ll cruise the motorway all day long and return up to 56mpg. There are five trim levels, ranging from Visia to Tekna+. Visia is generous, with four electric windows, a 5.0in infotainment system and air-con. (Acenta, the next up, gets dual-zone climate control.) Further up the range, N-Connecta adds a safety pack and Tekna brings leather upholstery, a Bose audio system and even more safety kit. Newer rivals such as the Seat Ateca may be more polished in every area but a Mk2 Qashqai fits more pockets. Need to know The Qashqai’s optional automatic Xtronic gearbox is a CVT (continuously variable transmission). Such gearboxes can often make a car sound revvy and breathless but, when paired with the impressively torquey 1.6 dCi diesel engine, the Qashqai’s is much less vocal and pretty lively with it. The panoramic sunroof was a £400 option and is well worth seeking out. It’s standard on Black Edition models launched in 2016 but you’ll find it across most versions. It floods the cabin with light and gives the whole plot a welcome lift. Only diesel Qashqais from 2015 on are Euro 6 compliant, so a Mk2 launch model could cost you dear if you want to enter areas such as London’s ultra-low-emissions zone. Our pick Nissan Qashqai 1.5 DCI N-Connecta: A generous spec (Smart Vision, 18in alloys, sports seats, 7.0in display, digital radio and 360deg camera) meet a sweet diesel to make a well-balanced version in plentiful supply. Wild card Nissan Qashqai 1.6 DIG-T Tekna+: The ultimate Qashqai lays it on with everything from nappa leather to a panoramic sunroof and the full panoply of safety features. The torquey, 160bhp 1.6 DiG-T petrol engine offers respectable performance, too. Ones we found 2014 Qashqai 1.5 dCi Acenta Premium, 158,000 miles, £5999 2015 Qashqai 1.5 dCi Acenta, 72,000 miles, £8400 2016 Qashqai 1.2 DiG-T N-Connecta, 43,000 miles, £10,000 2017 Qashqai 1.5 dCi Acenta, 20,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Nissan Qashqai
Used car buying guide: Audi A2
If you’re panning for gold, stop: we may have found some you don’t have to grub around for. It’s the Audi A2, a remarkable little car most of us know to be a future classic but few have acted on. Well, now’s the time to do just that because you never saw such a sweet little bargain. Just £500 is all you need for a 2001- reg SE 1.4 with 116,000 miles and full service history, but if you’re made of money, how about a one-owner 2002-reg 1.4 TDI SE with 98,000 miles for £1795? Many A2s have full service histories and, being Audis, still feel taut and fresh. Best of all, their owners are nuts – in a good way. They love good engineering and they love their A2s. They look after them – and that’s rare in the used car market. The A2 is one of those cars that comes along now and then and gives the trees a good shake. Lightness, exceptional fuel economy, impressive packaging efficiency, high levels of safety and ease of ownership were its USPs when it was launched in 2000. (It ceased production in 2005.) Built entirely of aluminium and with a strong spaceframe at its heart, it weighed just 895kg in its lightest form. It arrived powered by a 74bhp 1.4 MPI petrol engine, followed a few months later by a three-cylinder 1.4 TDI diesel engine also producing 74bhp. Owners boast of this engine returning up to 70mpg. The next year, the most interesting A2 was launched: the stripped-out 60bhp 1.2 TDI diesel auto. Unfortunately, this ultra-economical model (it returns a claimed 94mpg and emits just 81g/km of CO2) wasn’t sold in the UK, at least officially, but around 10 examples survive here today. Rob Womersley, boss of VW and Audi specialists Wom Automotive, owns one – but then he owns six A2s and claims his business maintains 100 of them. “A2s are just so tough,” he says. “We have some as courtesy cars and they never give any trouble.” He doesn’t quite include the more powerful 109bhp 1.6 FSI petrol and 89bhp 1.4 TDI diesel in his tribute. Audi’s direct injection system made its debut in the 1.6 FSI and never settled down; and that 1.4 TDI has a temperamental dual-mass flywheel and its turbocharger is prone to carbon build-up. Fortunately, there are enough less troublesome 74bhp 1.4 MPIs and TDIs on the market for you to ignore them. Another costly problem, common to all A2s, is repairing serious accident damage. It’s high enough for most insurers to write off a car. At least casual dents can be fixed. SE trim dominates but many of its features that were initially standard were withdrawn to become options, once Audi realised they were the only things that turned a profit. Cars in Sport trim sit a little lower and have sports seats. Most A2s have two seats in the rear and, remarkably, they’re removable. It’s a buying guide cliché but now really is the time to buy a good A2 before that word ‘bargain’ no longer applies. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view: Graham Alderson, Director, IVC Leeds: “We’re a specialist Volkswagen Group workshop and I’ve always owned Audis. Last year, I bought a 2003 A2 1.4 TDI with 155,000 miles on the clock. I’ve since put another 40,000 on it commuting to work. It hasn’t put a wheel wrong and averages 55mpg. It’s one of the few A2s with three rear seats, so I can carry my three kids. We get a steady dribble of A2s through the workshop but I can’t say there are typical problems, other than age-related things like worn suspension.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: The 74bhp 1.4 MPI can suffer coil packissues. The 1.6 FSI can have problemswith its direct injection and emissionscontrol systems and, on lower-mileagecars, its head gasket. The 89bhp 1.4TDI can suffer expensive dual-massflywheel issues and carbon build-up onthe variable-geometry turbo. ■ Transmission: A notchy change may be worn selectortower bearings caused by water ingress. ■ Brakes: More powerful petrol and diesel A2shave discs all round but the rears cancorrode easily since they’re little used. ■ Suspension: On post-2002 cars, check for failure ofthe pressed-steel wishbones. (Earlierones were cast.) Worn anti-roll barbushes may need replacement of theentire component but you can fit anoversize bush instead. On A2s with 17inwheels and S line suspension, expectthe ride to be uncomfortably firm. ■ Body: Corrosion is likely to be related to apoor crash repair where non-Audi approved connecting parts have beenused. Check for water in the batterycompartment, caused by tired seals inthe rear bumper. Where fitted, makesure the large glass roof operates asthe mechanism can be temperamental. ■ Identification: Confirm the vehicle’s ID on theVIN plate, which, in addition to the usual locations, you may find inthe passenger footwell, under thehandbrake, in the rear centre tunnel orunder the false floor on the driver’s side. ■ Interior: Expect the driver’s seat side bolster tobe worn and the satin finish on switchesand controls to be wearing off, but noserious rattles. Also worth knowing To check the oil level,
Origin: Used car buying guide: Audi A2
Nearly-new buying guide: BMW 3 Series (F30)
The spectacle of all-new 3 Series saloons leaving your local BMW showroom can mean only one thing: a mountain of trade-ins, many of them the model’s predecessor, the F30-generation model of 2012 to 2018. What a cracking car it is. True, by the end, rivals – notably the Jaguar XE, Mercedes-Benz C-Class and Audi A4 – had the measure of it but none was such an all-rounder as the F30. Handling, composure, performance, efficiency, quality, image – the F30 has it all in abundance. Even the interior, on earlier models a weak spot for its bulky transmission tunnel, is roomy in the back. The boot’s a handy 480 litres, or larger if you find a car with optional folding back seats. You want more grip? There’s four-wheel drive in the shape of xDrive. You want to join the hybrid revolution? Early on, there was the ActiveHybrid 3, followed later by the 330e iPerformance, a plug-in hybrid capable of up to 25 miles of pure-electric motoring. During its first year on sale, the F30 accumulated an impressive selection of engines, standouts being the smooth and lusty 320d, the snarly 330d, the creamy but potent 328i and its more frugal 1.6 turbo relation, the 320i EfficientDynamics. The 320d and 330d were EU6-compliant from launch. Buyers could choose between a six-speed manual gearbox or an eight-speed automatic, both superb. In 2015, the then three-year-old F30 received a shot in the arm courtesy of restyled front and rear ends, LED headlights and a refreshed interior. At the same time, new engines – such as the three-cylinder 318i, the 99g/km CO2 320d ED and the seriously quick 340i – joined the range. The chassis and gearboxes were improved and more advanced infotainment features arrived. Throughout, standard kit has always run to alloy wheels and climate control. SE models have dual-zone climate control, automatic lights and rear parking sensors and Sport cars get sports seats and other racy bits. The Modern trim reaches out to BMW newbies with more informal colours and Luxury ladles on the goodies. Can’t stretch to the mighty M3? You can always seek out the copycat M Sport, with its bodykit, larger alloy wheels and sports suspension. So where to find your used F30? You shouldn’t have to look too far. One major classified sales site is showing over 4000 at prices starting from £4399 for a 2012/12-reg 320d ED with 170,000 miles. At the other end of the spectrum, you can get into a 2018/68-reg 320d M Sport auto with 1500 miles for £32,985. Its all-new, G20-gen equivalent starts at £38k. At the time of writing, the cheapest BMW approved used F30 was a 2013 320d ED with 50,000 miles for £9424; not bad for a car with a 12-month warranty and full service history. All F30s have variable servicing. On cars under five years old, check if they were sold with the five-year servicing pack. It could save you some money. Need to know Because it’s built so well, you should be alive to the risk of buying a clocked F30. In fact, it’s easy to give one a haircut because of its digital odometer but just as easy to interrogate the ECU and spot it. Check old MOTs, too. Options typically depreciate faster than the car they’re fitted to so look out for extra toys at no extra cost. One worthwhile option is folding rear seats, but walk away from oversized wheels, which do little for the ride. A full BMW service history may be expensive to maintain but it will always reward you with an easier resale. Still, don’t ignore the very capable BMW specialists out there who can save you money and who have more experience of older, leggier cars. Our pick BMW 320d SE: Keep your sports suspension and big engines. We’ll take our F30 in SE guise with its more compliant suspension, powered by the 187bhp 320d diesel engine that can do up to 57mpg. Wild card BMW 340I M Sport Auto: The smaller engines and standard springs – that’s the route to the F30’s heart. The 340i M Sport has none of these so we’ll just take its 3.0-litre turbocharged six-cylinder petrol engine for all it’s got. Ones we found 2013 BMW 320d ED, 83,000 miles, £8300 2014 BMW 320i Sport, 40,000 miles, £12,300 2015 BMW 330d Sport auto, 50,000 miles, £15,000 2016 BMW 335d xDrive M Sport, 50,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: BMW 3 Series (F30)
Used car buying guide: Rover Mini
Buy the right one and it’ll be great fun but buy the wrong one…” So says Richard Williams, a long-established Mini specialist. It’s advice that you could apply to any motor, but given that a good Mini is the definition of ‘fun’, to buy a bad one must surely be the definition of something verging on hell. The worst thing waiting for you in the flames is rust like you’ve never seen. Replacing corroded shells, panels, bulkheads, floors and sills is an expensive and fraught business, and having sorted one problem, you’re bound to find another, and another… Such a vehicle passed through auction recently. The 1985 C-reg Mini 1000 City E had done 89,000 miles and sold for £2530. The car’s former owner, its 11th, had bought it to rekindle youthful memories. It was in original condition, but by October 2017, he’d spent £800 on new sills, £1629 on other panel work and £1500 on mechanical and electrical repairs. “I realise I am no longer a Mini fan and neither am I prepared to carry on being a mechanic,” he said as the hammer fell. Not the most encouraging anecdote with which to start a Mini buying guide but it’s best you remove your rose-tinted specs now. Williams has: “I only buy garaged Minis, generally from retired folk who appreciate and know how to look after them.” The model goes back to 1959 but here we’re interested in the last-of-the-line Rover Mini, also called the Mk7, of 1996-2000. By 1990, the Mini’s venerable 998cc engine had gone, replaced by a 1275cc unit. In 1992, this got single-point fuel injection and then, in 1996, with the arrival of the Mk7, multi-point complete with distributor-less ignition, electronic management and a coil per plug. The old side-mounted radiator was moved to the front, the alternator was beefed up and a higher final drive ratio was fitted. As for the body, the wheel arches became more flared, the headlights got adjustable levelling and side impact beams were fitted. New seats and headlining, thicker carpet, new control stalks and trims, remote central locking, seatbelt pre-tensioners and a driver’s airbag completed the interior makeover. Versions included the standard 1.3i, the Cooper 1.3i and its sporty spin-offs, and specials such as the Paul Smith, Classic Se7en and Knightsbridge. It was all done in response to research that had found the Mini was popular among fashion-conscious, professional singles; perhaps the same research BMW drew on for its replacement. Today, a nice, garaged Mk7 looks better than ever. It may lack the cachet of a classic Cooper, say, or a standard version with sliding windows and a cable door opener, but you’ll pay less (although we found a 2001 Cooper Sport 500 with 500 miles for a stiff £28k) and have something that rides and goes that little bit better. Buy a good one, as opposed to a bad one, and its price will only go one way, too. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view : “I spend 90% of my time looking for good Minis and 10% selling them. I’m only interested in well-maintained garaged cars because that’s what people want and are prepared to pay for. For example, I had 17 very nice Minis two weeks ago and now I’ve only three left. You can buy far cheaper Minis than mine from around £3000 but you may need to spend at least as much again getting such a car to an acceptable condition. Then, when people research its MOT history and find it was once failed for rust, not even the expensive bodywork you’ve done will persuade them to buy it! Good ones are out there but you’ll need to look at five cars to find one worth having.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Oil smoke could be valve stem seals, a low-down rumble a distressed crank, a noisy idle a failing timing chain and mayonnaise around the oil filler a leaky head gasket. Check the condition of the oil and coolant levels, and for a recent oil change sticker. Let the engine idle and pray the cooling fan cuts in. Blip the throttle and watch for the engine rocking abnormally. ■ Transmission: Even a healthy gearbox whines on the overrun. Listen for worn synchromesh and feel for a tired clutch. A recent MOT will have checked things like split driveshaft gaiters but feel if CV joints are worn by turning the wheel to full lock and driving slowly in circles. ■ Brakes, steering and suspension: The ride should be bouncy but well damped, and the steering light and quick, the car changing direction in an instant. When braking, expect to pull up in a straight line and for the brake pedal to feel firm, not hard. Again, a fresh MOT should rubber-stamp most of these mechanicals. Try to separate trim rattles from suspension noises. ■ Body: Check the inner and outer sills, floor and rear subframe for rust. Ditto the front wings, door skins and the A-panel between the doors and wings. Use a magnet to locate filler and a screwdriver to lift and peer behind anticorrosion layers. Also, check the boot floor where the battery sits. Also worth knowing It may look like a
Origin: Used car buying guide: Rover Mini
Nearly-new buying guide: Jaguar F-Type
In 2013 when the F-Type convertible launched, you needed from £60,000 or so to get one. Today, a six-year-old entry-level 3.0 with 35,000 miles is a shade under £25,000. That’s more like it. As a new car, the F-Type has always looked expensive next to the competition, but used ones make a lot more sense. There are hundreds to choose from at prices ranging from the aforementioned £25,000 all the way to £140,000 for a 2016-reg limited-run Project 7 convertible. In between are clusters of achingly desirable examples at multiple price points. Jaguar approved used cars start at around £30,000 for a 2014/64-reg 3.0 coupé with 45,000 miles, backed by an impressive two-year unlimited-mileage warranty. Meanwhile, legions of specialists are selling F-Types, albeit with less comprehensive warranties, as well as private sellers whose prices can be optimistic. A hard economics lesson and threats to look elsewhere usually softens their resolve. The original 335bhp 3.0 supercharged V6 is handy enough and good value, but the more powerful, 375bhp S version is the one you’ll wish you’d bought. It costs around £3000 more but supplements the standard car’s sports suspension, partial leather trim and steering wheel paddles with a sports exhaust, adaptive suspension and a mechanical limited-slip diff. You want an electronic diff? You need the 488bhp 5.0 V8 S convertible. The cheapest we found was a 2013/13-reg with 27,000 miles and full Jaguar service history for £35,000. The coupé version was called the R and had 542bhp. Pay from around £39,000 for an early 2013/13 with 40,000 miles. This engine is what it’s all about and why you’ve been saving all these years. The all-wheel-drive SVR, with an uprated chassis and lots of aero features, arrived in 2016. Today, prices start around £65,000, a reflection more of their low mileages than anything else. In fact, low mileage is a feature of used F-Types. Perhaps owners have something more practical in the garage… In 2017, the F-Type got its first facelift and a couple of new versions. The 400 launch edition was based on the V6 coupé and convertible, with two- or four-wheel drive. We praised its near-perfect set-up and specification. We found a 2017/17 with 27,000 miles for £47,000. The bigger news, though, was the arrival of the F-Type’s little brother, the 296bhp 2.0-litre. It doesn’t wake the neighbours like its beefier siblings but is lighter on its feet and great value. How about £36,950 for a 2018/67 with 10,000 miles? From 2018, the F-Type’s badging was changed so that the 2.0-litre became the P300, the basic V6 the P340 and the V6 S the P380. The 5.0-litre engines stayed the same. Something else that remained the same was the F-Type’s sheer charisma. This side of an Aston Martin, nothing can touch it. Need to know S and R versions of the F-Type have Jaguar’s Adaptive Dynamics system that actively controls vertical body movement, roll and pitch. Check that it all works on the test drive. The F-Type was facelifted in 2017 (new bumpers, LED headlights, Touch Pro infotainment) while R-Dynamic replaced S and the 400 Sport arrived. In 2018, it got torque vectoring, a bigger infotainment screen and new badging. What Car? voted Jaguar’s approved used scheme the best of its kind in 2018 and 2019. It includes a two-year unlimited mileage warranty with no limit to the number of claims. Two-year breakdown assistance is also included. Our pick Jaguar F-Type 5.0 V8 550 R AWD Coupé: All the looks with the power to match: that’s the F-Type R. We favour the tin-top but the convertible adds another dimension with little trade-off. The SVR is more powerful but £20,000 dearer. Jaguar F-Type 2.0 I4 Coupé Auto: The least powerful F-Type is actually one of the better versions to drive. That it looks like a full-fat F is a bonus, the cherry on the cake being that a 2018-reg with 10,000 miles is just £36,950. Ones we found 2014 F-Type 3.0 V6 coupé, 68,000 miles, £26,985 2017 F-Type 2.0 i4 coupé, 15,000 miles, £39,950 2015 F-Type 5.0 V8 R, 32,000 miles, £47,750 2018 F-Type 3.0 R-Dynamic, 2000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Jaguar F-Type
Used car buying guide: Renault Megane RS
With a hot hatch on your mind and £7000 in your pocket, what are you going to buy? Allow us to suggest a Renault Sport Mégane 250, perhaps the 2010/60-reg example with 67,000 miles that we found. It has a full service history, every fettle slavishly listed with its corresponding mileage in the private seller’s advertisement. It had its cambelt and water pump changed last November, almost bang on schedule. It’s had five owners, but then, as a motor trader once told us, that’s five honeymoons when the car has been spoiled rotten. Based on the third-gen Mégane, the all-new RS 250 arrived in the UK in 2010 before going out with a bang in the form of the 275 Trophy R of 2015. These two models alone remind us just what a confusing world planet RS Mégane can be. To recap, from launch you had the RS Mégane 250 powered by a 2.0-litre turbocharged engine producing 247bhp. It was partnered by a cheaper and more focused Cup version (lower, lighter, stiffer and with a limited-slip differential), although you could have the standard, or Sport version as it was called, with the Cup chassis. Both were exceptionally well made, and today a good used one still feels solid. Accept nothing less. So that’s the 250, but then, in 2011 up popped the Mégane 265 Trophy with 261bhp. It was based on the 250 Cup but cost £3800 more, a premium in part justified by the fact that only 50 came to the UK. Its party trick was the squeal from its special Bridgestone Potenza tyres as the car launched itself at the horizon. In fact, they were credited with helping the model break the front-drive lap record at the Nürburgring. The obligatory facelift occurred in 2012, the most obvious feature being the new daytime LED strip lights. Less obvious to bystanders was the fact that the 265 engine in the limited-edition Trophy had elbowed aside the old 250 unit to become the car’s standard powerplant. As before, there were Cup and Sport versions, as well as a combination of both. An important thing to note, however, is that the car’s default mode remained 247bhp. To unleash the full 261bhp, you press the ESP button. Hold it down longer and the stability aids are turned off. Check it all works on the test drive. And still Renault couldn’t stop tinkering. Rattled by newcomers such as Seat’s Leon Cupra 280, in 2014 it launched a flagship version of the Mégane called the 275 Trophy. With 271bhp available, the Cup chassis as standard and a very vocal, titanium Akrapovic exhaust doing the dirty work, it looked like being the best of the bunch – and then along came the even lighter, Öhlins suspension-equipped, limited-edition 275 Trophy R. That’s a lot of names to remember but, when it boils down to it, be it a £30,000 275 Trophy R or a £7000 250 Sport, an RS Mégane is a great, used, hot hatch buy – period. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Floyd Hollinshead, RS Four Ashes: “I’ve had an RS 250 for four years and love it. The engine is strong and can handle serious upgrades. I’ve fitted a K-Tec Racing Stage 2 performance pack, taking it to 350bhp. It costs £4500 fitted, and you need to upgrade the brakes and suspension. We do a Stage 1 upgrade, a remap and panel filter to 300bhp for £349. It’s enough for most people. My favourite is the 275 Trophy R with Akrapovic exhaust and Öhlins suspension but have you seen the prices? Whichever one you’re interested in, check that the gearbox, flywheel and suspension are sound and not making odd noises.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Depending on age and mileage, check the cambelt and water pump were changed at six years or 75,000 miles. An RS needs 5W-40 fully synthetic oil. Check for oil leaks around the rocker and sump covers. ■ Transmission: The PK4 gearbox can suffer from noisy bearings. The cause isn’t clear but it’s an expensive job to fix. On cars with over 60,000 miles, the dual-mass flywheel can develop a faint clicking or tapping noise. It’ll only get worse. ■ Interior: Check underfloor storage cubbies for damp and driver’s seat bolsters for splits and cracks. Make sure all the warning lights go out after start-up. ■ Suspension: Rubber top-mount bushes can split and anti-roll bar drop links wear. The latter make a slight knock. More serious are worn lower swivel joints, first heard as a slight knock but in serious cases as a creaking on full lock. Such cars are undrivable: accelerate and the bottom of the suspension will try to pull itself outwards; when you brake, it will pull inwards. ■ Brakes and tyres: Examine the edges of the discs for heavy lipping and that the car pulls up straight. With the front wheels at full lock, check the inner shoulders of the tyres for excessive wear. Check the tyres are a premium brand, too. ■ Body: Check the windscreen scuttle drainers for blockages. Rear wheel arches attract stone chips and need attention before corrosion sets in. Also worth knowing In 2015, a chain of dedicated Renault Sport dealers (renaultsport.co.uk)
Origin: Used car buying guide: Renault Megane RS
Nearly-new buying guide: Mazda MX-5 Mk4
The cheapest new MX-5 is the £19,495 1.5 132 SE convertible, but why spend that when you can spear a four-year-old 2.0 SE-L Nav rag-top for £10,995? Why subject yourself to the curse of depreciation when there’s a perfectly good MX-5 down the road on which the leeches have done their worst? Okay, it’s done 53,000 miles and, for all we know, it’s had a couple of owners. It’ll have a few scratches and maybe the brake calipers look a little tired. On the flipside, it’s a Mazda-approved car, which means it’s passed a multi-point inspection and has a 12-month, unlimited-mileage warranty and breakdown cover. The Mk4 MX-5 launched in 2015. Even smaller, almost as light despite having more kit, just as pretty in an edgier way and with a lower centre of gravity, it drew favourable comparison with its Mk1 forebear. Purists preferred the slightly lighter and revvier 129bhp 1.5 over the 158bhp 2.0 but took the 2.0-litre home anyway because it’s usefully quicker. And then there were the trims. Basic SE came with cloth seats and valve radio, SE-L got climate-controlled air-con, DAB radio and a colour touchscreen, while Sport added rain-sensing wipers, rear parking sensors, BOSE sound system and leather. Most buyers plumped for the full-fat 2.0 Sport (see above); better still, the Nav version. Later in 2015, Mazda scratched its special-edition itch with the 2.0 Sport Recaro based on the 2.0 Sport Nav. Limited to 600 cars, it has the aero bodykit, special alloys, an Alcantara-trimmed dash and Recaro chairs. The 1.5 Arctic special, with silver body detailing, followed in 2016 and the 2.0 Z-Sport in 2017. Bear in mind that as the MX-5 Mk 4 ages, condition and originality will trump any special-edition premium. Also in 2017, the hard-roofed RF (for ‘retractable fastback’) arrived. Its removable centre section leaves the rear buttresses intact. It’s more convenient and quieter at a cruise but it’s heavier, more expensive and, to these eyes, not as pretty. In 2018, the argument for buying the 2.0-litre Sport became stronger still when its rev limit rose by 700rpm and power went up to 181bhp, bringing the 0-62mph time down by almost one second to 6.5sec. Meanwhile, across all versions the steering wheel became telescopically adjustable. I recently bought a pre-registered, approved used 2018/68- reg 2.0 184 Sport Nav convertible with 500 miles on the clock. Finished in Machine Grey it cost £21,500, or £4250 less than the new, undiscounted price. I’ve since noticed the radiator is dented and the rear wing shows evidence of a small paint repair – blemishes not disclosed when I bought it. The rear numberplate was delaminating, too, and I had to buy mats for the car. The experience shows that approved used schemes still have a way to go, but as a way of avoiding the leeches, a used MX-5 Mk4 is definitely the way forward. Need to know If it’s going to be your only car, know that motorway journeys are likely to be something of a chore in the convertible. You’ll want the 2.0-litre for those, but whichever engine you choose, be prepared for road noise at a heroic level. If you’re parking it outside and don’t have anywhere for it to find shelter, consider getting a cover for the hood. Sounds daft, but an MX-5 is such a sweet car that you’ll want to do everything to protect it from the worst the elements can throw at it. It helps to keep it more secure, too. Look out for used MX-5s with the optional safety pack that brings rear and blind spot assist, a reversing camera and LED headlights. Blind spot is especially useful on the RF, which has deep buttresses. Our pick: Mazda MX-5 2.0 Sport Nav 184 The uprated 181bhp engine that accompanied the mid-life refresh has more mid-range punch yet still delivers 47mpg with a light foot. You don’t have to work it as hard as the 1.5, sweet though that engine is. Wildcard: Mazda MX-5 1.5 SE Hardly a wild card but a basic 1.5 SE from 2015 feels like the purist’s choice. Light on its feet, keen to rev and stripped of fripperies, it seems closer to the MX-5 ideal. Ones we found 2015 2.0 SEL-L Nav, 52,000 miles, £10,995 2016 1.5 SE, 7000 miles, £13,000 2016 2.0 Sport Recaro, 12,000 miles, £16,000 2018 1.5 Sport Nav, 10 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Mazda MX-5 Mk4
Used car buying guide: Ferrari F430
“Now’s the time to buy a 430 while prices are soft and there are plenty to choose from.” So says James Caborn, sales executive at Kent High Performance Cars. The dealership majors on Ferrari and the day before we spoke, James had sold a 15,000-mile 2006 F430 Spider F1 for £77,000, or £3000 off the screen price. It was a proper car, too, finished in Rosso Corsa with Nero Black leather, and fitted out with the interior carbon pack. On the same day, the cheapest approved used F430 in the official dealer network was also a coupé F1; another 2006-reg but with 24,000 miles, finished in Nero Black and advertised for £79,900, including the excellent, official used car warranty. But whatever you spend on a 430 (from around £60,000 for tired cars all the way to £280,000 for a late, lefthand-drive 16M F1 with full exterior carbon pack and 8000 miles) you’re getting a wonderful, usable Ferrari. It was launched in the UK in 2005 in both coupé and convertible forms, powered by a rear mid-mounted 4.3-litre V8 producing 483bhp. This was an all-new engine with, crucially, chain rather than belt-driven camshafts, laying to rest buyers’ concerns regarding the expensive belt-change intervals associated with earlier models. (On that point, the 430’s forerunner, the 360, does at least have a removable panel for access to the offending area.) Drive passes to the rear wheels through a clever electronic differential called the E-diff that channels torque to the wheel with the greatest grip. You can play tunes on it via a rotary controller called the manettino mounted on the steering wheel. Depending how courageous you’re feeling you can cycle through five grip levels. Verging on crazy? You can turn it off completely. The same controller allows you to adjust damper settings, shift speeds and throttle response. Gearboxes are a choice between a six-speed manual or Ferrari’s F1 automated manual with paddle shifts. Only around 10% of 430s were sold with the manual ’box. From 2007 a stripped-down, 503bhp version of the coupé called the Scuderia was offered followed, in 2009, by a convertible version called the 16M Spider. Also, from late 2007, previously optional carbon ceramic disc brakes became standard. Great if you like track days; not so if you don’t and the discs need replacing… That expensive niggle aside, the 430 was a thoroughly well-sorted car from day one, so don’t fret about buying an early one over a later model. Problems? Exhaust manifolds can crack – although there’s a fix and in any case, many were replaced – it’s heavy on suspension and the rubberised finish on the interior can come off on your hands. A full main dealer or specialist service history, the toolkit and the right tyres are a must. If it’s a convertible, check the hood is free of tears, and folds and sits properly. All good? Then do what the man says: buy now while prices are soft. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Scott Chivers, Multiple Ferrari owner and self-taught Ferrari fixer: “I owned a 430 Scuderia I bought from a Ferrari dealer in Austria and drove home from Vienna without a problem. The car had only done 6000 miles but I sold it a few months later to a chap who has barely driven it since. That’s a tragedy because like the 360, the 430 is easily a daily driver that can take serious mileages. If the entry price is too high, consider a left-hand-drive one. There’ll always be a good market in the US and Europe for it when you sell. Rosso Corsa, or what I call Resale Red, with either a black, tan or cream interior is the best combination.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: First, have the undertrays removed. The engine has a dry sump so check the oil level when it’s hot. Services should be every 6250 miles or annually. Check for cracked exhaust manifolds. Excessive engine vibration may be a cracked engine mount. ■ Transmission: Check for regular fluid changes and hydraulic actuator leaks. Examine the transmission control unit’s clutch wear record; a worn clutch will make the car sluggish from take-off. On manuals, check for a heavy clutch and for slippage. A troublesome E-diff might be faulty solenoids. Examine the gearbox mounts which can crack. ■ Suspension and brakes: It’s heavy on balljoints and bushes. Check ride modes work and for play in the steering wheel, suggesting worn tie-rod ends. Feel for worn wheel bearings (about £800 a corner). If ceramic brake discs are fitted, check their remaining life using Ferrari’s diagnostic system. Check caliper pistons aren’t seized. ■ Body: Corrosion of the largely alloy body shouldn’t be an issue so any you see is likely to be damage-related. Check the expensive and hard-to-replace windscreen for chips and cracks. Make sure the Spider’s hood sits correctly. Feel for loose tail-lights (a broken bracket that can’t be fixed) and loose wing mirrors (a loose screw). ■ Interior: Examine the dash leather for shrinkage (noticeable around the vents
Origin: Used car buying guide: Ferrari F430
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