If you’re a regular reader of Autocar, you’re probably well-versed in the abbreviation WLTP. Worldwide Harmonised Light Vehicle Test Procedure is a new way of measuring vehicles’ fuel economy and emissions, and it has appeared on our pages for a number of reasons. First, there’s been plenty of related news. For example, Audi sales in the UK fell by a fifth last year, due to WLTP. Porsche has almost halved its sales so far this year, also due to WLTP. Plus, we’ve started to future-proof our first drive reviews and A-Z data pages by quoting only WLTP fuel economy and CO2 figures where possible, rather than those measured under the previous NEDC cycle. It’s easy to glaze over this stuff, but it’s important for car buyers because it can affect how much money’s in your pocket. What fuel consumption and CO2 figures should you be looking at to save a few quid or work out your company car tax: NEDC, WLTP, RDE? Confused? Then read on… What is WLTP? WLTP is a new testing procedure aimed at producing more real-world figures for fuel consumption and emissions than the outgoing one, NEDC (New European Driving Cycle). NEDC had been in play since the 1980s and, despite minor updates along the way, became outdated due to changes in technology and driving conditions. Meanwhile, WLTP has been under discussion since 2008, with plans to finalise its regulation by 2018 and launch it by 2023. Then the Dieselgate scandal happened and the European Commission decided to accelerate the process, which gave car makers just 13 months to overhaul their models and complete all testing. WLTP became mandatory from 1 September 2018 for measuring CO2 emissions and fuel economy on all new cars in the EU. Confusingly, in the UK, labelling regulations meant that WLTP fuel economy values were introduced from 1 January 2019, but CO2 figures are not due to be disclosed until 1 April 2020 to tally with changes in taxation. So while all cars will have a WLTP CO2 figure, in many cases it has yet to be publicised. As a result of this shortened time frame, manufacturers fell into trouble last year as demand at test centres bottlenecked. It meant many new vehicles weren’t ready to be sold from September, which sucker-punched the car market. Particularly hard hit were Volkswagen Group models. In September, Volkswagen’s European sales fell by 53% and Audi’s dropped by 60%. The problem was exacerbated by a crucial difference between WLTP and NEDC. WLTP requires significantly more testing to provide individual data for every variant of a vehicle, which wasn’t needed for NEDC. If you’ve noticed that the number of options on cars have been dramatically reduced and equipment ‘packs’ have increased, that’s why. How does the test work? The WLTP test procedure looks identical to the NEDC process, carried out on a rolling road in laboratory conditions, but that’s where the similarities end. While the WLTP test itself takes only 30 minutes, as opposed to the NEDC’s 20, the whole process can take up to five days, more than double that of its predecessor. To reflect real-world conditions, temperature is set at 23deg C and, given that warmer temperatures put less load on a vehicle, there is another test for European vehicles at a more representative 14deg C. There is sharper acceleration and deceleration than previously, mirroring busier traffic conditions; higher average and maximum speeds; and five driving cycles, compared with the NEDC’s three, again to reflect modern-day driving. The other major difference concerns gearchanges during the test. In NEDC, there were fixed points for gearchanges; in WLTP, there are different gearshift points for each vehicle. So how does all of this affect the figures? Our sister title What Car? has found that the average gap between WLTP fuel economy and its own real-world True MPG test data is 4.9%, compared with a difference of 23.5% under the NEDC cycle. That’s WLTP in a hard-to-crack nutshell. But there’s something else: RDE. The Real Driving Emissions test, also introduced in September 2018, measures particulates and nitrogen oxides and backs up the results of a WLTP test. It takes place on public roads with a portable emissions measurement system. The 1.5- to two-hour test (over around 50 miles) has an equal split of urban, rural and motorway routes, takes into account stops/starts in towns and must exceed 56mph on appropriate roads. Essentially, it’s a validation exercise for WLTP results (which also note NOx and particulates). The goalposts for RDE will keep moving, too. For example, at the moment, manufacturers must sign a legal document stating that the RDE results can be achieved in certain conditions, such as an altitude of up to 700 metres. From 2021, that will extend to 1300m. The gap between the WLTP and RDE figures must also decrease over time. From 2020, a second step, RDE2 – which means lower NOx levels than are acceptable today – will become compulsory. Why should I
Origin: The Autocar guide to WLTP emissions testing
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Used car buying guide: TVR Griffith
As the all-new Griffith inches closer (deliveries should start next year), interest in its forebear remains strong. Not as strong as it was when news of the new model first broke, though. Then, values of the old Griff stiffened quickly as people made the connection, only to soften slightly as its successor’s launch date was pushed back. Add winter’s usual chilling effect on convertible prices and now is probably your last chance to snare an old Griff for sensible money before the new model, costing from around £90,000, hoves into view once more. All that said, these days you’ll be lucky to find a decent runner much below £15,000, while good, refurbished cars start at around £20,000. The best nudge £35,000, while the very best, lowest-mileage and cleanest last-of-the-line SEs go all the way to £50,000. The good news is that a good Griff, lovingly maintained and refreshed with essential new parts, should one day be worth more than you paid for it. The Griffith was launched in 1991 with a 240bhp 4.0-litre Rover V8 under the bonnet. Power went to the rear wheels via a five-speed Rover LT77 gearbox and a GKN limited-slip differential. The electrical system was by Lucas and lifted straight out of the Range Rover, and that, if you were wondering, is why there’s so much wiring stuffed in with the battery, located in the passenger bulkhead. You’ll also find the ECU, fuse box and heater pipes in there. It’s not a place for the faint-hearted. The Griffith’s glassfibre body is mounted on a spaceframe chassis with outriggers that extend from the backbone of the car. Mud and debris flicked up by the wheels stick to these and in time they rot through, although it happens from above, which can be hard to spot. Replacing the outriggers, without removing the body, costs up to £2000. In 1992, a 4.3 V8 making 280bhp became available, and around 25 of them were produced with big-valve cylinder heads. These were very torquey and, because they just preceded the 1993 law that required a catalytic converter to be fitted to all new petrol cars, gloriously vocal. After a brief suspension in production, in 1993 the Griffith re-emerged with the engine it should have had from the start: a 5.0-litre V8 with 340bhp. It powered the model to the very end, which came in 2002 heralded by the special-edition SE. Some ride on 16in wheels, where most Griffs sit on 15s at the front and 16s behind. The gearbox in 5.0 Griffiths is a Borg Warner T5. You can tell it from the Rover ’box because reverse is to the right and back, where on the Rover it’s to the left and forward. Reverse often spins, so to avoid it crunching, select first then reverse. The engines are generally tough and reliable. It’s electrical gremlins, tired dampers and bushes and chassis corrosion that spoil things. Keeping on top of them should keep you busy at weekends, but the rewards will be incalculable. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view David Hothersall, TVRCC: “I’ve had my 1998 Griffith 500 for 13 years. I bought it with 19,000 miles and today it’s showing 83,000. It’s my daily driver and has mostly been trouble-free. If there had been any serious problems, there’s enough support out there to build a new one. In fact, there are at least three TVR businesses operating from the old Bristol Avenue factory. The Griffith isn’t complicated but, given its torque-to-weight ratio, you have to respect it.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Listen for camchain rattles: they last about 100,000 miles; camshafts can need replacing at 50k. Expect oil leaks from rocker cover gaskets and sump cover. Early 5.0s had crank issues. Check oil pressure and also engine temperature since the radiator can become blocked and the fan can seize. Check exhaust condition and for smoke from the manifolds. ■ Transmission: Five-speed gearboxes are tough, but check the fluid has been changed at intervals; on the later T5, check reverse doesn’t crunch. Early GKN diff is noisy; later Salisbury units leak oil. ■ Suspension and steering: Push the car down at each corner to check for any bouncing. Check the condition of the ball joints. Check tyres for uneven wear: wheel alignment issues can be hard to resolve if crash-related. ■ Electrics: Check the ECU, battery and Lucas wiring loom in the front passenger bulkhead are watertight and neatly stowed. Try all the electrics; the body flexes and can chafe wires, and earthing issues are common. ■ Chassis: Check the outriggers that extend from the centre section to the sills, and from which steel sections run at right angles front to back. They collect mud and debris and rot from the top. The seat belt anchors are located on them, so corrosion can compromise safety. Poke underseal with a screwdriver to check it’s not masking rotting steel. ■ Body: Check the body for ripples, cracks and overspray. Inspect the windscreen base for water tightness. Also worth knowing The TVR Car Club (tvr-car-club.co.uk) is a good place to
Origin: Used car buying guide: TVR Griffith
Nearly-new buying guide: Porsche Boxster (981)
Having been unveiled at the Geneva motor show in 2012, the 981-generation Porsche Boxster reached its seventh birthday just last month. Ordinarily you would expect a car of that age to be worth only a fraction of what it cost to buy new, perhaps as little as one-third. But were that true of Porsche’s mid-engined roadster there’d be 62-plate Boxsters kicking about on the used market with £12,500 price tags. If that were the case, Porsche would probably never sell a brand new sports car again… The 981 has held its value better than just about any other comparable performance car. The cheapest examples offered for private sale go for around £23,000, but if you want a Porsche Approved car with a two-year manufacturer warranty, you’ll have to budget for £28,000. The 981 Boxster arrived in the UK during the summer of 2012, the entry-level version costing from £37,589 and the higher-powered Boxster S £45,384. While those original buyers will be very pleased with how well their car has held onto its value, the rest of us will find it a touch regrettable. After all, even after seven years the bargain-basement 981 Boxster doesn’t seem much closer now than it was back in 2012. There is another way of looking at it, however. These cars are depreciating more slowly now than they’ve ever done, so if you were to stick £28,000 into one today, you’d get most of that back two or three years down the line. The 981 Boxster was a bigger car than the 987 it replaced, but it was also lighter and more powerful. While it is undoubtedly true that the earlier cars with their hydraulically assisted steering were more tactile, this newer model has a far more modern cabin, much more muscular styling and, in the way its suspension combines body control with ride comfort and bump absorption, one of the best real-world sports car chassis of recent memory. Apart from being such a joy to drive, the Boxster has resolutely held its value, it seems, because the model that replaced it in 2016 just hasn’t been met with the same level of demand. Its turbocharged four cylinder is nothing like as sonorous as the 981’s tuneful normally aspirated flat six, and many buyers have elected not to upgrade. For the full interactive sports car experience you’ll probably want the manual transmission, in which case your options will be somewhat limited. So many new buyers ticked the PDK box on the options list that finding a manual car today is anything but straightforward. Porsche’s approved used stock showed only four such examples offered for sale for less than £35,000 at the time of writing, although it should be said the PDK dual-clutch automatic ’box is actually very good in its own way. And if the basic 981 Boxster with 261bhp is simply far too underpowered? You’ll want to spend upwards of £34,000 on the 311bhp Boxster S. Need to know The 981 Boxster should be serviced every 20,000 miles or two years, whichever comes first. A minor service is around £500 at a main dealer; the major service is only a little more expensive. In 2015 Porsche introduced the Boxster Black Edition. Aside from black paintwork and 20in wheels, these models also got an uprated infotainment system, parking sensors at both ends, cruise control, two-zone climate control and a better stereo. Along with Porsche Torque Vectoring, other options to look for are Porsche Active Suspension Management and the Sport Chrono Package, which includes adaptive transmission mounts. Uptake was modest, though, so you might have to wait patiently. Our pick Porsche Boxster (981): The faster Boxster S is more desirable in absolute terms, but it costs quite a bit more. The basic Boxster is fast enough and best enjoyed with the superb six-speed manual transmission. Wild card Cherry-picking all the best performance bits from the options list, such as Sport Chrono, the 2014 GTS was the most involving Boxster of the lot (save for the super-rare Spyder). You’ll pay for it, though: the earliest cars still command £50k. Ones we found 2014 Porsche Boxster, 50,000 miles, £27,994 2014 Porsche Boxster, 32,000 miles, £30,799 2013 Porsche Boxster S, 41,000 miles, £33,957 2014 Porsche Boxster S, 35,000 miles,
Origin: Nearly-new buying guide: Porsche Boxster (981)
Used car buying guide: Porsche 928
It’s 41 years since the first Porsche 928 rolled off the production line in 1978. More astonishing still, in this age of model cycles barely longer than a weekend, it’s only 24 years since the last one bowed out in 1995. That’s a huge age range to contemplate, but as is always the case when we’re talking about old motors, only one thing really matters when buying a 928: condition. For years the model languished in motoring’s retirement home, celebrated occasionally but otherwise left to rot. As recently as 2013, decent runners could be picked up for as little as £4750, some dropping as low as £2300. One rare GT manual with a good service history was £8250. They’re not that cheap today. Cars that are decent if care-worn start at around £10,000, while sound 928s begin at £20,000 and those that let you sleep at night cost from £25,000. With the exception of a few sought-after manuals, they’re all autos. The cheapest, straight-sounding manual we found was a 1982 X-reg 928 4.5 with 80,000 miles and full service history, being sold privately for a not unreasonable £21,500. A later 5.0 GT manual in sound order and with around 100,000 miles was £38,000. The best low-mileage GT manuals go for around £50,000. Intended to take the place of the 911, sales of which had slumped, the 928 was first powered by a front-mounted, 4.5-litre, fuel-injected V8 producing 237bhp. Drive went to the rear wheels via a five-speed manual gearbox or optional three-speed auto. David Hemmings, author of two books on the 928 and currently the 928 register secretary of the Porsche Club, bought one new in 1980 (cost: around £20,000) following a succession of unreliable British sports cars. He subsequently acquired a 1992-reg S4 in 1995 and then in 2018 bought the first manual 928 to arrive in the UK, a 1978 4.5. “My first 928 impressed me with its looks, solid build quality – it was galvanised and had aluminium panels – and good standard equipment level,” he recalls. “The V8 was great, of course, but it was also reliable, which made a change.” Today, early 928s are prized for their clean lines and relative simplicity. For the be-spoilered 928 S of 1980 the engine grew to 4.7 litres and produced 296bhp. The 928 S2, essentially a more powerful (306bhp) and updated S, followed it in 1984. The S4 of 1987 upped the ante with a 32-valve 5.0-litre V8 producing 316bhp. The limited-edition SE manual arrived in 1988 (it fetches high prices today) followed, a year later, by the equally rare 325bhp GT manual. As the end beckoned, in 1992 the S4 and GT morphed into the GTS, powered by a 5.4-litre V8 producing 345bhp. The last cars left the production line in 1995. Of the 4500 928s sold in the UK, Hemmings reckons between 2750 and 3000 remain, testament to the appeal and durability of this charismatic GT. Put one on your drive before prices are out of reach. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Andrew Means, founder Gmund Cars: “I owned a 928 for five years, bought out of the classifieds for £6600 and sold for £20,000. Today you have to be really careful when buying one. I was offered three last year but didn’t bite; I later saw one of them sell at auction for £30,000. I hope the buyer knew it had a knackered gearbox. For years, few people wanted a 928 so they weren’t looked after properly. People pay fortunes for the rare manuals but the dog-leg ’box doesn’t suit righthand drive. Give me an auto any day.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Engine smoke when warm hints at worn valve guides and cylinder bores. Check the oil level and try to gauge oil consumption (500 miles per litre is typical). Lumpy running could be a worn distributor or failed ECU; vibration at idle may be worn engine mounts. Timing belts, tensioners and water pumps should be changed every 60k miles or four years. Check for coolant leaks; Porsche coolant needs changing every four years. ■ Transmission: Check that the torque tube connecting the gearbox to the diff isn’t putting pressure on the flywheel mounting plate. Examine the underside of the automatic gearbox and torque converter for leaks. Rare manual ’box has a notchy change but too much stiffness can wear out the synchros. ■ Brakes, steering and suspension: Check the brake lines and hoses, steering and driveshaft gaiters, and suspension arms and bushes. Clonking could mean worn bushes; a floaty ride suggests worn dampers. ■ Body: The galvanised 928 has aluminium doors, front wings and bonnet but check for bubbling around windows and the rear hatch, and the underside for corrosion. Tired sunroof and tailgate seals can cause damp carpets. ■ Interior: Check all the electrical systems work. Where fitted, a failed air-con suggests penny-pinching elsewhere. Expect trim and upholstery to be worn or torn, so factor refurbishment into the price. Also worth knowing In the Porsche Classic section of the Services Accessories menu at porsche.com/uk you’ll find a wealth of information on the
Origin: Used car buying guide: Porsche 928
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