Used EV values increasing with demand The price of a used Renault Zoe is actually climbing Demand for electric cars is seeing used values increasing, according to new analysis by CarGurus. While petrol and diesel models have depreciated between January 2017 and November 2019, EVs have seen appreciating values. Looking at the four most searched for electric models on the company’s site – BMW’s i3, the Nissan Leaf, Renault’s Zoe, and the Tesla Model S – prices either rose or remained level for months at a time. In most cases, they significantly out-performed the most searched for petrol and diesel equivalents over the same period. The average asking price for a used 2015 Renault Zoe increased by 18% between January 2017 to November 2019, from £6,425 to £7,612. To compare, the Ford Fiesta of the same age decreased by 22% from £9,165 to £7,160 over the same period. BMW i3 values increased by 1% based on 2014 examples, while petrol or diesel Mini hatchbacks by comparison fell by 14%, both since the start of the year. A 2015 Nissan Leaf sees an average drop in value of just 9% from January 2017 at £10,438. Same age petrol or diesel VW Golf models dropped by 17% over the same period. Many drivers are changing to electric cars, and now the market has been around for a around nine years, there are a number of used models available – which wasn’t the case even a few years ago. With used models seeing a far lower purchase price but the same low running costs, it’s easy to see the appeal of a used electric car.
Origin: Used EV values increasing with demand
Used
Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz SL320
Sand L: two letters that tell the world you’ve made it. There have been seven generations of the Mercedes-Benz convertible, each more or less as impressive as the other, but it’s the R129 generation under the spotlight here. The model was in production for a full 12 years from 1989 to 2001, and for drivers of a certain age, it sticks in the memory. Why? Bruno Sacco’s styling for a start, and then there were the engines, the advanced technology and the sheer driving experience that together propelled this legendary car into the modern age. It was a strong seller, with the result that, today, there are a fair number on the market at prices ranging from £3000 for a high-mileage 1997 P-reg SL320 to as much as £40,000 for a 1995 N-reg SL500 with 10,000 miles on the clock. In between is a riot of 280s, 320s and 500s at all ages and mileages, and in all conditions. There’s little rhyme or reason to the pricing so if you’re tempted to buy one, you should look at and try as many as you can. Increasingly, sellers describe the model as a ‘classic’, and one with a low mileage, no faults and in top condition may very well increase in value. However, experts we spoke to warn that rust is now rearing its head – the kind of rust you can’t see without lifting carpets. It was launched in 1989 with an automatic gearbox, gas-filled dampers, a removable hard top, a pop-up rollover bar and kit taken from the S-Class. It’s a heavy thing but the model’s new engines ensured it had sufficient muscle. Depending on the model year, they were a choice of 2.8, 3.0 and 3.2-litre straight sixes producing between 193bhp and 231bhp, the latter in 24-valve, twin-cam form. Then there was a 326bhp 5.0-litre V8 and a mighty 394bhp 6.0-litre V12 (we found a 1999/T-reg SL600 with 74,000 miles and full service history for £21,950). There was also an AMG version with a 6.0-litre engine but this time a lighter V8, producing 381bhp. Of them all, our pick is the dependable 231bhp SL320, a facelifted model from 1996. That said, one to watch is the SL600. The V12 is whisper quiet, although access to it for even minor repairs (the throttle bodies can be troublesome and it can suffer internal corrosion) is difficult and, as such, very expensive. Major milestones in the SL’s life were the move away from the two-tone paint scheme, plus restyled bumpers and the adoption of brake assist in 1996. Then in 1999 the instrument cluster gained chrome rings and the steering wheel a big Mercedes star in its centre. One good option to look out for is folding mirrors, so you can squeeze your SL into the garage more easily. The SL signed off with the SL500 Silver Arrow special edition complete with autographed Stirling Moss portrait. Only 100 were produced. We found a 2001-reg example with 21,000 miles for £43,995. Now that’s one SL that really says you’ve made it. An owner’s view Gordon Bishop: “I bought my 320 in 2000. It was a few months old with about 1500 miles and had been a dealer demonstrator. It’s since racked up almost 120,000 miles and has never failed me. SLs like to be driven; they hate standing around. Despite the mileage, it’s in beautiful condition. The paint is tough and the alloys haven’t corroded like they can on lesser cars. It’s everything I could want in a car: attractive, comfortable, well equipped and built like a tank. It’s always serviced on the button, mostly specialists using Mercedes-trained technicians. I’ve still got the hard top. Luckily, I have the space to store it.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: Experts call it a ‘biodegradable’ wiring loom for the way it disintegrates over time. Misfires are often traced to it. A replacement loom costs from £150 but labour is much more. Water ingress is usually the cause. Leaky head gaskets on early six-cylinder cars and throttle body wiring issues on V8s are also a problem. A rattle at tickover could be the catalytic converter breaking up. ■ Transmission: Gearboxes are generally reliable, the four-speed more than the later five, which can suffer oil contamination. Regular filter changes prevent it, so check they’ve happened. ■ Suspension and brakes: The SL is a heavy car so expect front lower ball joints, top mounts, bushes and springs to show some strain. Check for overworked discs and pads. ■ Electrics: Check the battery is holding its charge. If it’s failing, it can trigger warning lights. Old alarms are known to be a power drain. ■ Body: Specialists are seeing more rusty SLs these days, problem areas being the boot floor and leading edge of the front wings. Check that the powered hood works, because if left unused for some time, the electronic module packs up. On that point, be wary of a car with its hard-top fitted. Interior: Aside from checking the leather is in good condition and that the powered seats do their thing, make sure all the electrical features work. On the test drive, be sure the air-con chills the cabin and that the heater warms it up. Also
Origin: Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz SL320
Nova Scotia used car salesman sentenced for almost $40k in fraud
In this file photo, unsold Hyundai Tucson crossovers sit at a dealership in Littleton, Colo.David Zalubowski / Associated Press In this latest episode of Used Car Salesmen Behaving Badly, a metal-moving bloke from Dartmouth, Nova Scotia has been sentenced to 44 months in the slammer after being found guilty of excessive financial chicanery. In most cases, it seems Michael David Surette took money for cars that were never delivered.The man was also fined tens of thousands and ordered to reimburse the customers he defrauded to the tune of $38,841. Those offenses took place between 2015 and 2018 during his tenure as a salesman at a place called Used Car Factory 21. To cap it all off, for part of that time he was on probation for previous fraud-related convictions. Lovely.Court records for the case read like a horror story of financial fraud, with person after person listed as being unlawfully defrauded. Not to excuse any sort of fraud, but it is especially galling that most of the incidents were for less than $5,000, suggesting they were targeted actions against people buying cheap used cars. Indeed, one victim was noted by the judge as having a minimum wage part-time job that sometimes began at 500 a.m. After borrowing more than $3,900 for a vehicle he never obtained, the man still had to walk to work 30 minutes each way. The fraud amounts ranged from $12,624 to just $600.In a damning indictment of the privilege from which he grew, the 53-year-old Surette is described as having enjoyed a great childhood in a home where he did not experience abuse nor witness any substance addictions.The author of the pre-sentence report noted that Surette stated he accepted responsibility for his actions. With respect to the offences before the Court, Mr. Surette expressed I guess I had no reason to do it, I shouldnt have done it. I guess opportunity.Considering the credit received for time already spent in custody, Surette will spend another 30 months as a guest of the prison system.Stay vigilant,
Origin: Nova Scotia used car salesman sentenced for almost $40k in fraud
Used car buying guide: BMW 1 Series M Coupe
If you were one of the lucky 450 people who bagged a new BMW 1 Series M Coupé in 2011 for its list price of £39,990, then congratulations. Depending on how well you’ve looked after it and its mileage, it may not have lost a penny in depreciation. As this was written, of the 25 or so 1 Series M Coupés, or 1Ms as they’re known, on a leading classified sales site, 20 were priced at £39,990 or more. In fact, three were nudging £60,000. The tragedy is that all the cars advertised for more than £40,000 had done less than 40,000 miles and the most expensive less than 10,000. But their owners or sellers have first to achieve these prices, and considering how picky buyers can be at this level, that may not always be possible. The heads of those shopping for a 1M will also be filled with tales of previously stolen 1Ms – OBD programming thefts were a problem with some early cars – as well as scarily expensive repair bills. However, they will also be filled with tales of just how good the 1M is to drive. It was launched in 2011, and once all 450 cars were sold (two thirds were snapped up before the first car hit the showrooms), that was it. As a result, most wear 2011/11-reg or 2011/61-reg plates although you do see the occasional 2012/61 car, not that it makes any difference to the value. To distinguish it from lesser 1 Series Coupés, the 1M has a wider track and enormous arches, home to four specially designed 19in alloy wheels. From certain angles, it actually looks like a hot rod. Power comes from a twin-turbocharged 3.0-litre straight six that produces 335bhp and drives the rear wheels through a specially developed, short-throw, six-speed manual gearbox. Stab the M button on the steering wheel and an overboost function provides an extra 37lb ft of torque, taking the total output to 369lb ft across a highly accessible 1500rpm to 4500rpm. Standard equipment included a limited-slip differential, DSC stability control whose intervention points can be adjusted by the driver, those 19in Y-spoke alloy wheels, dual-zone air conditioning and leather and Alcantara trim with orange stitching. Options included a Harman Kardon sound system, sat-nav, adaptive headlights and high beam assistant, none of them crucial to a 1M’s value. What does help pile on the pennies, because it’s quite sought after, is Valencia Orange paintwork, one of only three exterior colours offered, the others being Black Sapphire and Alpine White. That said, some of the most expensive 1Ms are in these last two colours, proving that, ultimately, mileage, condition and provenance are the most important determinants of price. Even so, the model can throw a curve ball, such as the immaculate 43,000-mile example with full BMW service history and extended warranty we found for £34,000. It seems too good to be true. It’s got to be worth a gander, surely? An expert’s view Jack Day, Sutherland M Power Cars: “Because it’s rare, great to drive and has that M badge, the 1M is always going to be valuable and sought after. Prices are rising fast. It’s a fickle market, though. We sold one overnight but another hung around for four months. Collectors are moving in now and paying strong prices for the best cars. By ‘best’, I mean immaculate, finished in orange and unmodified. When buying a 1M, I always check for signs of track day use and sub-premium tyres that suggest shallow pockets.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: Start it from cold and check for poor running caused by failing injectors. Rev the engine to around 2500rpm, then throttle off and listen for the turbo wastegate bearing chattering. It’s around £2000 to fix. Related warning signs are engine management issues. However, these could also relate to a failing fuel pump or worn nitrogen oxide sensor. On the display screen, check the service history that’s stored on the key fob. ■ Drivetrain: On the test drive, feel for the propshaft bearing vibrating (also felt as a thumping sensation) and listen for the limited-slip differential groaning during low-speed turns. ■ Gearbox: Check for abused clutches and synchros and note that a replacement dual-mass flywheel costs over £1200. ■ Suspension, steering and tyres: Make sure the rear springs aren’t broken. Check the brake discs aren’t heavily lipped. Suspect track day use if the brakes judder. Ensure all tyres are the same, premium brand and not wearing unevenly. ■ Body: Any rust will be repair related. Check the consistency of panel gaps and for fresh paint and overspray. Lift the boot carpet and examine the floor for signs of buckling or fresh paint. ■ Interior: Inspect the driver’s seat bolster and be sure the heating system works. Check the iDrive control system functions. Most failed units freeze up and are expensive to replace. Feel for damp carpets in the footwells and boot, where blocked drain channels can direct water to the interior, jeopardising the electronics. Also worth knowing Dealers we spoke to were clear that
Origin: Used car buying guide: BMW 1 Series M Coupe
Used car buying guide: Aston Martin DBS
With No Time to Die, the name of the next Bond film, recently announced, cast your mind back to 2006. It was actor Daniel Craig’s debut outing as 007 but also the year his then new car, the Aston Martin DBS, was first glimpsed. The film did wonders for sales of the DB9-based coupé. (One dealer recalls taking 30 orders but with only eight cars earmarked for his dealership.) Of course, a couple of years later, there was the 2008 recession but, even so, demand remained strong and values of used DBSs held firm – until now. The number of unsold DBSs is rising for the first time, forcing down their prices. The reason? Faltering market confidence, heavy discounting of less well-received newer Astons and the fact that, compared with something like the new and competitively priced Vantage, the DBS seems dated. As an example, Stefan Jordan, sales manager of Fisher Performance Cars, says that in February 2018, he was advertising a customer’s 11,000-mile 2011 DBS Carbon Black Touchtronic II for £118,000. He was offered £110,000 and advised his client to accept it, but the chap wouldn’t accept anything less than £115,000. Last week, Jordan finally sold the car to a collector, a man who knows his Astons and the market, for £85,000. “Right now, it’s a buyer’s market,” says Jordan. “One major classified site is showing around 40 DBSs for sale, well over twice the number you’d have seen advertised a year ago. That’s pushing down prices and any seller who hasn’t woken up to that is in for a shock. However, it’s hard to believe they’ll fall much lower, which is why that collector snapped up my customer’s car.” But enough economics. The DBS was launched in 2007 and the first cars hit the road in 2008. Although based on the DB9, the DBS was lighter, had ceramic brakes, adaptive damping and 20in wheels and its 5.9-litre V12 produced 510bhp, 40bhp more than the DB9 had at the time. The first DBSs were coupés with a manual gearbox, two seats and a parcel shelf. A 2+2 cabin was an expensive (£11,000) and rarely requested option. The last manual car was produced in 2011. The six-speed Touchtronic II automatic variant arrived in 2008 and had a 2+2 interior as standard. It was the bigger seller but today it’s the rare manual variant that commands the higher prices. A Volante convertible version landed in 2009 but enthusiasts prefer the coupé. Notable specials include the popular Carbon Black Touchtronic of 2010 (unique paint and wheels, and carbon fascia and sill covers) and in 2012 a final hurrah, the Ultimate edition. Just 59 of those were made and in 2017 a dealer was offering one for £175,000. Frankly, you’d be better off buying the pick of the range, a 2009 manual in Quantum Silver and with a BO sound system for around £85,000. Just don’t join any card games. An expert’s view Mike Beighton, managing director, Fisher Performance: “We’re all former Aston-trained technicians and main dealer sales people so we know the cars inside out. The DBS thrives on preventative maintenance, which is why we set such store behind one having full service history, with work performed by main dealers or reputable specialists. An example: the diffs need a fluid change every four years. Some non-specialists don’t know that or they may even be encouraged not to bother. We see DBSs in the workshop that haven’t had their fluid changed for eight years, and when you drain it out, it looks like it. Believe me, the cost of a diff and DBS parts in general is such that you don’t want to replace anything other than consumables if you can avoid it.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: On early cars, listen for the inlet manifold ‘breathing’. The engine note appears to rise and fall but the revs are unaffected. Later cars got a reinforced manifold. Some rarely used cars develop sump gasket leaks. ■ Transmission: On early manuals, listen for the clutch ‘squawking’ during low-speed manoeuvres. It’s a fault of the pad material. On Touchtronic autos, check that the selection buttons work positively. Early cars can mis-select, triggering a warning light that a system reset will fix temporarily. Aston can reflash the electronics of affected cars to cure it. ■ Brakes: Check the 12 bolts securing the discs to the carrier. They can shear off due to overheating, allowing the disc to ‘wobble’ slightly. It is possible to source new bolts through a Brembo agent. Otherwise, it’s £12,000 for new front discs and pads. If the car isn’t used on track days, a set should last at least 70,000 miles. ■ Suspension: The Bilstein shock absorbers can leak. It’s caused by dirt working past the top seal. Later cars have a double seal. ■ Body: Check for paint blistering around the door handles caused by water getting underneath. If not treated, it’ll spread. On the Volante, water can cripple the motorised hood latches (very expensive) so check they work. Look for water behind the fuel filler flap that can drain into the boot or into the tank. Also worth
Origin: Used car buying guide: Aston Martin DBS
Used car buying guide: Vauxhall Tigra
Vauxhall has a habit of pulling a rabbit out of the hat from time to time. Remember the original Zafira with its Flex7 seating system and the Signum with its FlexSpace rear-seat arrangement? You can add another in the shape of the Tigra of 2004-09 – a pretty Corsa-based car with a clever electric folding roof. Forward 15 years and the classifieds, if not exactly wilting under the weight of used Tigras, are at least straining slightly. Prices start at just £500 for runners of all ages and top out at a shade over £3000. Around £1500 is all you need for a clean, well-serviced example from a good home. The model arrived with a choice of two petrol engines: a 1.4 16-valve producing 89bhp and a 1.8 producing 123bhp. A 69bhp 1.3 CDTi diesel followed in 2005. The 1.4 was the best. What it lacks in outright oomph it makes up for by being sweeter, more flexible and considerably more economical than the 1.8. However, it suffers timing chain issues (you can spot a 1.4 a mile off by its tinkling engine) whereas the 1.8 is a straightforward new-belt-at-40,000- miles affair. Those are the engines but the folding roof is why people bought the Tigra – and what a roof. To operate it, you undo a couple of latches, press a button and watch as the motors take over. It should be stowed within 20 seconds. To ensure it folds away neatly, the rear window and pillar drop almost vertically, allowing the roof panel itself to stow unobtrusively above, so preserving boot space. On that point, with the roof folded away, there’s 250 litres of luggage space, while in the closed position, there’s no less than 440 litres. In addition, there’s a shelf behind the front seats (there are no rear seats) that will happily accept 70 litres of luggage or something the size of a sports bag. Allowing for the fact that the roof seals may now be tired, the cabin should be relatively quiet and certainly watertight with the roof up. Over time, body shimmer may have loosened some of the cabin’s fixtures and fittings but otherwise it’s a well-built car that should still feel reasonably tight. The rear Targa-style section of the roof could be specified in either matt metallic Star Silver or in matt Moonland, both of which give the little car a pleasingly sporty and technical appearance. Alternatively, it could be ordered in the car’s body colour, which makes quite an impact. On that point, we found a very pretty 2009-reg 1.4 with 45,000 miles finished all over in yellow, a rare shade, for £2500. Today, trim levels are rather academic but Exclusiv (leather, aircon and alloy-effect touches to the interior) is a good one to shoot for. Sport versions get 16in alloy wheels and a silver Targa-style section. In no way is the Tigra a driver’s car, but as a cheap and attractive hatchback with a difference, it makes a lot of sense. An expert’s view Tim Harrison, founder, Fix My Vauxhall: “I’m an auto electrician and have been working on Vauxhalls since the 1980s. The Tigra’s roof is generally reliable. I can’t think of many issues apart from failure of the pump modulator. Otherwise, being a Corsa under that trick body, the Tigra is a reliable and easy-to-drive car that’s also surprisingly well equipped. I mean, leather, climate control and a Targa-style panel that could be painted in a contrasting colour are pretty impressive on a car costing such little money, even when new. Don’t ignore the diesel. It’s a Fiat engine and pretty tough, as well as economical.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: The 1.4 suffers timing chain tensioner problems. It’s a common fault and heard as an annoying rattle at tickover that just gets louder over time. Fresh oil every year or 12,000 miles is key to its extended life but they still wear out in the end. Best thing is to have the chain and water pump replaced at purchase. Avoid 1.4 engines with numbers beginning 19F, which may have sub-standard camshafts. The 1.8 uses a belt that should be changed at 40,000 miles. Both engines can suffer uneven running caused by a faulty oxygen sensor and alternator issues at around 70,000 miles. ■ Transmission: If selecting reverse is difficult, suspect worn linkage bushes. Replacement is the only long-term cure. Don’t worry: the 1.8-litre version isn’t missing a sixth gear; it just feels like it needs one because fifth is far too low. It feels notchy as well. ■ Brakes: Check front discs and pads for wear. Ensure the handbrake releases because the rear shoes can stick to the drums in damp weather. Scrutinise workshop invoices for evidence of biennial brake fluid changes. ■ Body: Check the hood cycles correctly and the roof seals fit tightly. Inspect the headlights for misting. ■ Interior: Feel for water ingress via the door-mounted speakers. (Water gets in through the top window seals, runs down the inside of the door and exits near the speakers.) Check the floor for damp caused by water entering via the brake master cylinder, where the rubber mastic bonding it to the
Origin: Used car buying guide: Vauxhall Tigra
Used car buying guide: Lotus Elan S2
It’s the Cinderella of British sports cars, the one polishing the taps, ironing the smalls and emptying the dishwasher while its sister, the Elise, enjoys the limelight. It is, of course, the Elan two-seat roadster. Not the legendary first-gen car from the 1960s, but the so-called M100 series launched in 1989, coincidentally the same year the Mazda MX-5 Mk1 came out. It was unfortunate timing. While the Mazda ironically borrowed much from the original Elan, in particular its longitudinal front-engined, rear-drive layout, the new M100 had its engine across the front wheels and was front-wheel drive. Purists were naturally upset, but a test drive usually won them over. The new car, which at least followed Lotus principles in having a lightweight composite body attached to a rigid steel backbone chassis, was funded by General Motors. The US giant also had a share in Isuzu, the Japanese car maker which supplied the Elan’s impressively reliable engines: a choice of 1.6 naturally aspirated and turbocharged units, both heavily modified by Lotus. The former produced 128bhp and the latter, badged SE and easily the more popular, a useful 163bhp. For a time sales were strong, helped by rave reviews from no less a magazine than this. It was all in vain. The car’s less than spectacular looks, high production cost and that perverse layout slowly did for it, and GM pulled the plug in 1992. These first-gen Elans are called Series 1s to distinguish them from the S2s that followed in 1995 after Bugatti bought Lotus and, on discovering a stash of surplus engines, gave the car a second chance. At the same time the handling was sharpened slightly but power knocked back to 156bhp due to the fitment of a catalytic converter. Even so, these rarer S2s now fetch a premium over the more plentiful S1, but ultimately condition is king. All too soon there were no more engines and S2 production ended, only to be revived briefly when Kia bought the rights to the model and dashed off a few examples for the Korean market. Forward to today and, thanks to Isuzu’s engines and GM’s cash, the model has weathered the passing years surprisingly well. ‘Buyer beware’ (see below) highlights a few things to watch for, but if you find a cherished example with a good history, it should serve you well. It certainly won’t feel as baggy as early Elises can. And just look at those prices. They top out at around £12,000, about where the Elise starts. In fact, £7500 to £10,000 is enough to get behind the wheel of a keeper in need of little attention apart from fresh oil and a new filter on the dot. Will prices rise? Specialist Vincent Haydon reckons that as long as Elise values increase, Elans are sure to, but he warns against restoring a barn find at great expense. The model’s just not there yet. Perhaps one day… An expert’s view Vincent Haydon, Vincent Haydon Cars: “As a former Lotus dealer I well remember the Elan. There was a huge push on the Esprit with sales incentives and all sorts, but any objection to the Elan being front-wheel drive was easily countered by giving a customer the keys to the demonstrator. They’d come back with a huge smile and we had another sale in the bag. It helped, too, that it had an Isuzu engine, because people knew it wouldn’t go wrong. Today, they’re a bargain. From £7500 to £10,000 will get you a tidy one with a solid history – and it must be solid because they do like their oil changes.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: The Isuzu engine is bulletproof if regularly serviced. Evidence of fresh oil and a filter every 6000 miles is essential. Check coolant hoses for leaks and clips for corrosion. ■ Gearbox: Another toughie, with synchro problems largely unknown. Linkages can wear, especially the ball link at the end of the shift cable – it can become disconnected. Feel for clutch slip: if it bites close to the top of the pedal’s travel, it’s on the way out. ■ Suspension and brakes: Check rear suspension for corrosion caused by moisture between it and the body (we saw an Elan with newly fitted galvanised wishbones, which are a good mod). Otherwise the suspension is tough, although at this age you can expect to find the odd leaky damper or broken spring. Wheel geometry is adjustable all round, so uneven tyre wear may suggest it needs a tweak. ■ Interior: Quality here lags behind the rest of the car thanks to low-rent GM parts. At least spares are freely available. Leather trim was below par and expect to have to retrim the driver’s seat. ■ Body: Paint crazing is rare so any you see may be repair-related. Shutlines are generally good and a wayward door or bonnet may just need adjusting. Check for worn door and boot seals, which will let in water. ■ Roof: Check for a warped frame and general wear and tear. It should sit properly, but even then it’s likely to let in rain. Also worth knowing For the Elan driver who has everything, how about that final touch: the Lotus certificate of
Origin: Used car buying guide: Lotus Elan S2
Used car buying guide: Alfa Romeo GTV
If the Alfa Romeo GTV could talk, it would still be hoarse from its acceptance speeches. In 1995 it garnered at least 10 gongs, two of them from this magazine: Best Sports Car and Car of the Year. Almost 25 years later, the champagne may have gone flat but this 2+2 coupé (there’s also a two-seater roadster called the Spider) is still impressing enthusiasts, as prices approaching £10,000 attest. Such a sum buys a one-owner, 42,500-mile GTV 3.0 V6 24v Lusso registered in 2001. But you don’t have to pay that. We turned up an example of the rarer and more sought-after 3.2 V6 Lusso. It’s done 92,000 miles, has full history and is being offered for £7495. It dates from 2003, the year this most powerful version was launched and when the GTV was facelifted for the final time. Twelve months later, production of the coupé ceased as its successor, the Brera, was readied. The GTV arrived in 1995. Styled by Pininfarina and with a confident, heart-shaped grille incorporating Alfa’s colourful emblem, it’s an attractive car spoiled only by a bland interior that feels a bit low-rent. Subsequent facelifts rounded off the car’s edges and relocated the front numberplate to an offset position, keeping it looking fresh. Bonnet, wings and nose are composite, so no rust concerns there. Elsewhere the body is galvanised, but even so, it’s worth checking for rust in the floor and on the rear arches and sills. The GTV was initially offered with a 2.0-litre 16-valve Twin Spark engine with 148bhp. Later versions gained a variable intake manifold. For its performance, reliability, smoothness and value, this is the engine to have. It was followed, in 1998, by a 3.0-litre 24-valve V6 with 217bhp. To go with the higher performance came larger ‘teledial’ alloys with bigger brakes adorned with red calipers. Today the V6 commands the highest prices, and rightly so, but a well-bought and cheaper TS is the better buy. What’s not such a good buy is the 163bhp 16-valve 2.0 JTS, launched in 2003, that replaced it and which has an appetite for bearings and bores. At the same time, the 3.0-litre V6 was replaced by a 3.2 producing 238bhp for 0-62mph in less than six seconds. Few were sold. Throughout the model’s 10-year reign, Alfa couldn’t resist tinkering. There are lightly modified Phase 1b cars from 1997, Phase 2 facelifted cars from 1998 (new centre console, revised instruments, colour-coded bodykit), cleaner Phase 2b engines from 2000 and, finally, Phase 3 facelifted models from 2003 (new nose, revised console, traction control). Enthusiasts also talk about CF1, 2 and 3 engines and debate their differences, which largely concern the number and location of the catalytic converters. Trims boil down to Turismo and Lusso (V6 cars are exclusively Lusso). There’s a V6 Cup, too, but just try to find one. In any case, at this distance, condition trumps trim. An expert’s view Ned Kirkham, director, Autolusso: “I’d buy a Phase 2 3.0 V6 with the CF2 engine. The CF2 was a useful improvement on the CF1 in the Phase 1 car but not as complicated as the later CF3 that complied with Euro 3 standards. Then I’d fit a Quaife ATB limited-slip diff. It makes a big improvement to the way the 3.0-litre turns in because without it, it can understeer horribly. Avoid the JTS – it suffers oil dilution caused by its direct fuel injection, which causes cylinder bore, camshaft and big-end bearing wear. It also suffers from carbon buildup in the intakes. Look out for the 3.2. Only 54 were sold in the UK and a good one is highly prized.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: All engines require a cambelt change every 36,000 miles/three years and fresh oil every 8000. A diesely rattle at idle means cam variator failure. It should be changed with the cambelt. With JTS engines, check oil quality for fuel dilution and frequency of changes. On all engines, rough running and misfiring may be due to poor timing, or on V6 engines a faulty mass airflow sensor or head gasket failure. ■ Gearbox: On the 2.0 TS, if the clutch bites close to the top of the pedal travel, it needs replacing. The V6’s pull clutch gets heavy and notchy when warm. Check for smooth gearchanges. Swarf buildup in the end casing can cause fifthgear selection issues. On V6s, budget for a Quaife ATB limited-slip diff. ■ Brakes, suspension and wheels: Lower front wishbones wear at each end, causing front tyre inner shoulder wear (although it could also be an alignment issue). Bushes on the rear suspension can wear and specialists advise replacing with Powerflex items. On the V6, feel for warped front discs. Check tyre pressures – the alloys can oxidise, causing a poor seal. ■ Body: Check the sills, footwells and jacking points for rust. ■ Interior: Check the windows work and, on later cars, that the glass drops 10mm. Check the heated rear screen – it can burn out its connection or, worse, the fuse box. Also worth knowing The GTV is from a time when some cars required two keys. GTVs
Origin: Used car buying guide: Alfa Romeo GTV
Used car buying guide: Ferrari 456
Apologies – we’re a bit late to this V12 gem. In around 2009-10, prices for the 456 fell back to about £40,000 tops, while some cars in poor condition dropped to as low as £25,000. Then from around 2014 they began to rally, only to fall back slightly a couple of years ago. It all means that today you’ll struggle to find a good right-hand-drive 456, or the later 456M, for less than £40,000 while, if you want to sleep soundly in your bed, you’ll need to spend between £58,000 and £65,000 for a proper one with a low mileage and a good service history. That last bit – a good service history – is crucial. Too many 456s have gaps in their histories, a legacy of those rock-bottom prices when many people with shallow pockets but eyes bright with the dream of Ferrari ownership snapped up the cars. Once reality kicked in, the first thing to go was servicing, with the result that lots of cars have patchy histories with few signs of the necessarily regular 6000-mile fettle and 24,000-mile cambelt change. Many have since found good homes and had their service histories patched up. In any case, the model is, despite the litany of checks we advise (see below), a tough and reliable old thing. Indeed, it was Ferrari chief Luca di Montezemolo’s intention that it should be. He figured that building a reliable and practical supercar to be driven rather than locked away, as is the fate of most Ferraris, would be his brand’s best advertisement. The car was launched in 1992 as the 456GT and wasn’t replaced until 2003. In between times – 1998 – it was facelifted when it became the 456M, for Modificata. Whether GT or M, the 5.5-litre front-mounted V12 produces the same 436bhp, driving the rear wheels through a six-speed manual gearbox that went from being a dog-leg gate to a more usable H-pattern in around 1995. Alternatively, from 1996 there was a four-speed torque-converter automatic. Naturally, the former attracts a premium, but the automatic is reliable and a good fit if you just want to cruise effortlessly from country to country. Not that the 456 can’t lift its skirts. In fact, for a time it was the fastest four-seater car in the world, with a top speed of 188mph. Four-seater? Well, two-plus-two, really, but there’s just enough space for a couple of adults in the back. Switchable suspension, in combination with a self-levelling rear set-up, is standard and, in Normal mode at least, very comfortable, but it all needs checking, as we explain. It’s linked to the brakes and problems there can cause the suspension to default to hard. With the facelift, the 456M became a little quieter and more refined. Production ended with the 456M GT Scaglietti, also known as the Schumacher Edition. You’ll pay a fortune for one of those, but with luck you should find a perfectly good standard 456GT or 456M for around £50,000. Hurry before prices move. An expert’s view Martin Rowles, director, Rardley Motors: “The 456 is a usable everyday supercar. We have some through our workshop with over 100,000 miles on them. Increasingly, though, it’s seen as an investment and quite a few sit in garages never turning a wheel. Often it’s these that give trouble. Saying that, I reckon 30% are ‘Friday cars’ – it doesn’t matter how well they’ve been serviced, they’ll always have a problem. When checking one, establish what was done and when. The air-con service, valve clearances and brake fluid change are vital jobs but often ignored. My favourite is the manual. This, together with a low mileage, can mean a price difference of around £10k over an auto with a higher mileage.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: Valve clearances need checking every 32,000 miles. The hoses in the engine’s V may need replacing. Check for cracks in the aluminium around the exhaust manifold. The fuel pump mount in the fuel tank can break up, blocking the pump. ■ Gearbox: On manuals, check the oil cooler and pipes in the rear bumper for corrosion. On automatics, listen for drivetrain noise caused by worn spider gears. ■ Suspension: Check the switchable suspension’s actuators. Test the diaphragms in the self-levelling rear suspension hydraulic accumulators by inserting a screwdriver where the hose enters. If it goes in too far, there’s a problem (a split diaphragm causes the shock to become locked and burst). Check for cracked bushes and rusty wishbones. ■ Brakes: A faulty brake pressure switch that puts the suspension in anti-dive mode can cause the suspension to go hard. Check brake fluid has been changed – it can crystallise, blocking the pipes. ■ Body: Look for rusty sills behind the rear wheels. A new bonnet is £10,000. Check window gaps – failing glass mounts are a problem. Replacement front fogs for early cars are no longer available. Check delamination of rear screen and that the headlights pop up. ■ Interior: The leather trim on the dash and parcel shelf shrinks, and the rubberised coating on the ashtray, dash vents and switchgear goes tacky.
Origin: Used car buying guide: Ferrari 456
Used car buying guide: Bentley Turbo R
A Bentley Turbo R looks like 2.5 tonnes of expensive trouble you’d be mad to consider buying except that, bought well, you’re looking at an investment whose running costs aren’t as painful as you might think. How about £420 for the 6000-mile service, £800 for the 12,000 and £1280 for the 24,000? Much more than a Ford Focus admittedly, but the R is a special car and a complicated beast that needs the regular attention of an expert technician. “If it’s been well maintained, costs aren’t too bad at all,” says Adrian Worth of Prestige Services Leeds, a Bentley specialist. “It’s when people bring us something that’s been neglected. In that event, getting an R up to scratch is expensive.” He’s thinking of the kind of Turbo R that, at best, has endured a succession of minor services. Owners might think that at least they’re giving it regular doses of fresh engine oil but Worth is more concerned about things such as the gearbox filter that has been sitting there for mile after mile, clogging up and starving the unit of oil. “In that case, you’re looking at a gearbox overhaul,” he says. Which is all a way of saying only buy a Turbo R that has a full service history, as in all minor, intermediate and major services, or that has had a major overhaul by specialists. Such cars do exist. We found a 1997 Turbo R that, prior to purchase, had had its leather and bodywork restored by a specialist, and under its present owner’s care, its suspension, braking and cooling systems overhauled. It’s for sale at £15,950. For your money, you get a classic, handbuilt, performance saloon trimmed with the finest materials and powered by a turbocharged 6.75-litre V8 producing 296bhp for 0-62mph in around 7.0sec. Subsequent versions developed even more power – the limited-edition Turbo S 385bhp, the even rarer RT 400bhp and, in 1998, a year before production ended, 420bhp in ultra-exclusive RT Mulliner form. The Turbo R was launched in 1985 as a successor to the Mulsanne Turbo. (We found a mint, low-mileage 1984-reg with full service history, previously owned by a rock star, advertised for just £9995.) Alas, it was a bit of a pudding: quick but too soft. The R – it stands for roadholding – fixed that by adopting the Mulsanne’s optional suspension pack and much stiffer anti-roll bars, and wearing low-profile tyres. And so was born the most comfortable but brutish conveyance this side of the Flying Scotsman. Key events include the adoption of antilock brakes and fuel injection in late 1986, and the move to a four-speed GM auto gearbox from the same company’s long-running three-speed 400 in late 1991. A facelifted version with a new fuel injection system was launched in 1995, and after 1996, it was available in only long-wheelbase form. Find a good one and, fingers crossed, it won’t be as expensive to run as perhaps you first imagined. An expert’s view Adrian Worth, director, Prestige Services Leeds: “I joined Appleyard Rippon, a Bentley agent, in Leeds, as a technician in 1974 and left 20 years later to start my own business, with a partner, maintaining Bentleys and Rolls-Royces. I’ve worked on lots of Turbo Rs over the years. Like all prestige cars, they need to be serviced regularly by people who know what they’re doing and what to look for. Preventative maintenance is key to controlling running costs. Never buy one with anything less than full specialist or main dealer history. I’d avoid the early and troublesome carburettor engine.” Buyer beware ■ Engine: Early carburettor models can have failed carburettor gaskets. Post-1996 cars can suffer failure of their rubber head gaskets. Noisy tappets should be replaced with original Rolls-Royce parts. ■ Cooling system: Check the viscous cooling fan works by running the engine to temperature and then switching it off. If it runs on, it should be replaced. Most serious engine problems can be attributed to a failed cooling system. ■ Transmission: Generally reliable. Make sure the filter has been changed regularly. ■ Suspension and brakes: Steering and front suspension are prone to worn dampers, bushes, ball joints and track rod arms. The rear is a self-levelling system using gas springs mounted on top of hydraulic dampers, whose pressure is varied automatically. Over time, the gas in the springs leaks out, making the suspension hard. The height control valves for the hydraulic dampers can fail. If the brake pressure warning illuminates when you depress the brake pedal, the accumulators may be leaking. ■ Body: Doors, bonnet and boot are aluminium and rust can form around handles and badges. Later cars had rubber gaskets separating these steel parts from the aluminium. Check the rubber bumpers aren’t swollen. Replacement sections can be pricey. Also look for body filler. ■ Interior: Ensure everything works, including the air-con. Even simple electrical components cost a fortune. Also worth knowing The Rolls-Royce and Bentley Specialists
Origin: Used car buying guide: Bentley Turbo R
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