All hail the used car market, which has produced another supercar bargain in the shape of the CLK 55 AMG of 2002- 06. Note, not the first-gen version launched in 2000 and powered by a 342bhp 5.4-litre V8; no, we’re talking about the more powerful – with 367bhp – second-generation model. Being AMG, that’s a hand-assembled V8, of course. On the plaque affixed to the rocker cover is scrawled the engine builder’s signature. Owners gamely trade their names, like train spotters. One we spoke to refers to his engine’s builder, one Rosario Indorre, in tones you might reserve for a close friend… Still, if you’ve ever driven a 55, you can understand why owners hold these people in such high regard. Tales of electronics problems and body corrosion abound, but there are few complaints about a 55’s engine. It drives the rear wheels via a five-speed automatic gearbox. That sounds a bit tame in this age of nine-speeders, but it’s a tough transmission taken from the more powerful S-Class V12. It also features AMG’s ultra-smooth Speedshift system that you can operate with light sideways shifts of the lever or by rapid presses of the steering wheel-mounted F1-style paddles. Underneath its tight-fitting body, the 55, in coupé and convertible forms, sits on a stiffened and strengthened C-Class chassis. It’s especially evident in the cabrio, which should be rock-solid over bumps. The suspension has stronger springs, larger-diameter roll bars and stiffer bushes, but it’s a heavy car and front control arms take a hammering, as do front tyres. In fact, they can wear as fast as the driven rears. Despite its supercar-baiting performance, the 55 is a discreet-looking motor, an impression borne of its modest 18in wheels, subtle bootlid spoiler and undersized twin tailpipes. The equivalent BMW M3 is shoutier (and more of a hooligan to drive) but it’s the CLK’s discretion that draws out buyers today. Owner Mark Anthony (below) bought a 55 over the M3 for what he regarded as its classier image. That impression continues inside, where two-tone leather, chrome-ringed white dials and AMG-embossed aluminium sill plates remind you you’re in something rather special. Being a Mercedes, and one costing more than a Porsche 911 when new, expect the one you’re interested in to have at least a few options fitted. One worth looking for is the carbon and alloy fascia pack. A full Merc history is nice to see but there are excellent specialists well versed in the ways of older AMGs. In any case, often it’s the electronics that can let a 55 down, and for those you only need the right diagnostics kit plus a good head for fault tracing. The 55 is a terrific car but doesn’t quite have the cachet of the equivalent M3. Fortunately, most prices reflect this. Find a good one, pay sensible money for it and you and Rosario could be friends for life. An owner’s view Mark Anthony, Mercedes CLK 55 owner: “I’ve got a 2006/06 cabrio with 49,000 miles. It’s rock-solid with no scuttle shake. I wanted a supercar with more class than an M3, and it needed to be fun. The CLK ticked all the boxes. Don’t ask about economy – you buy a car like this to have fun. Mechanically, I can’t fault it but the electrics have let me down. First an ECU (£400), then a sensor that prevented it starting. When buying, check the gearbox and adaptive suspension are okay – I’ve had a few arms and bushes go. You won’t know about electronic faults until they happen.” Buyer beware Engines: Have someone rev the engine while you check how much it moves on its mountings (too much and the ECU will reduce power). Check for rocker cover oil leaks and the condition of the front pulley. Check service receipts to see when the spark plugs were changed – there are 16 and they’re not cheap. Gearbox: Cycle the gearbox through the gears from cold, feeling for shunting and knocks. The selector can stick in first but it’s a relatively cheap fix. On early cars with the Valeo radiator, check coolant isn’t leaking into the gearbox. Brakes, suspension and wheels: Feel for heavy lipping on the edges of the discs (OE discs are expensive) and check pad thickness. Front suspension arms are a routine replacement item. The suspension is firm so don’t mistake regular noises for anything serious. The front tyres can take a hammering from the sheer weight of the engine. Electrics: There are ECUs everywhere, including the boot, so check they’re not exposed to dampness by lifting carpets. The windscreen scuttle gets blocked, diverting water to the cabin. Body: Look for rust on rear wheel arches and sills, and also behind the bodykit and undertrays. Interior: Generally tough, but for the best prices avoid anything scratched, torn and knocked about. Check everything works and that all warning lights illuminate first, before then going out. Also worth knowing The secret to running a CLK 55 is budgeting. A warranty will cover unexpected bills but for routine servicing a good garage should
Origin: Used car buying guide: Mercedes-Benz CLK 55 AMG
Used
The Aston Martin DB5 used to promote Thunderball is up for auction
The Aston Martin DB5 is no doubt one of the most iconic film vehicles ever, but within the DB5 umbrella, there are many vehicles that can claim to be the DB5. This one is arguably the most movie-accurate, although not actually used on the screen — instead, it was used for promotional purposes. This DB5 is one of two originally used to promote Thunderball, and is equipped with every gadget featured in that film, as well as the ones showcased in Goldfinger: The smokescreen, oil slicks, bulletproof window shield, battering rams, and turn-signal mounted machine guns are all present. The ejector seat, though, isn’t functional — although the roof panel can be removed. The weapon drawer and tracking screen are also included; the only thing missing is the jetpack in the trunk. For the films, multiple vehicles were used to demonstrate the gadgets. But for these promotional vehicles, all the gadgets were made to work reliably to show at premieres. The car was previously sold for US$2,090,000 but it received a complete restoration in 2012, so it should fetch a much higher number now. The car will go to auction at RM Sotheby’s Monterey event in August, where it will no doubt bring a hefty price. Continuation cars go for about US$3.6 million, so it will be interesting to see how much this DB5
Origin: The Aston Martin DB5 used to promote Thunderball is up for auction
Used car buying guide: Volkswagen Eos
The Volkswagen Eos is a member of that select group of hatchback-derived coupé-cabriolets that graced the noughties and included the Ford Focus, Vauxhall Astra, Peugeot 308 and Renault Mégane. Of them all, though, the Eos was the poshest, a status reflected in its higher price. Fortunately, since production ceased in 2014, its prices have fallen to the extent that you can pick one up for around £700, although at that level you want to be sure the model’s temperamental roof works. Prices peak at around £14,000 for a 2014- reg 2.0 TDI with 20,000 miles. That seems a lot for a car that is based on the old Golf Mk5 and went out of production 10 years ago, so we’d settle for something in between, such as a facelifted, 2011-reg 1.4 TSI for around £7500. The Eos was launched in 2006 and lauded for its spacious 2+2 cabin, roomy boot (at least until the folded roof occupied most of it) and good handling. However, the highest praise was reserved for its stiff bodyshell and a metal folding roof that incorporates a sliding sunroof. Buyers were never short of engines to choose from. From launch to that 2011 facelift mentioned earlier, there was a 113bhp 1.6 FSI (underpowered for the heavy Eos), a 147bhp 2.0 FSI, a 197bhp 2.0T-FSI (one of the best and in Sport trim only) and a 3.2 V6 producing 247bhp that makes a good, relaxed cruiser. Note the emphasis on petrol engines there. The lone diesel was a 138bhp 2.0 TDI. The thing is, if you want a good selection of petrols to choose from, a pre-facelift Eos is where to look because the diesel didn’t really catch on. From the 2011 facelift, it was all change, with the market favouring the torquey 138bhp 2.0 TDI at the expense of the new 121bhp 1.4 TSI, the 158bhp 1.4 TSI with turbocharger and supercharger (it’s the most rounded) and the 208bhp 2.0 TSI from the Golf GTI. With the facelift, the Eos also acquired a simpler but smarter grille and a restyled bonnet and wings. At the back, the comical round tail-lights were given the heave-ho in favour of slimmer, more toned-down affairs. Versions with leather trim gained a new finish capable of reflecting the sun’s rays. The popularity of the diesel version after 2011 is a clue to the model’s appeal to business users, so check the one you’re looking at hasn’t been flogged and neglected. In any case, it’s an EU5 engine so subject to creeping emissions penalties and tougher MOT tests. Really, you want to find one of the petrol models, but avoid the earlier 1.6 FSI. And if you must have the DSG auto, ensure you opt for the facelift model, when the ’box was improved. (Earlier ones must have their oil changed every 40,000 miles or else.) Apologies for what follows… but find a good one and an Eos, the Greek goddess of dawn, could be the dawn of a new era in your motoring. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Phil Harding, VW Service Centre (Gosport): “There are a few issues with the Eos, mostly concerning the roof and making sure the drain holes are clear. Neglect them and in a rain storm the car can quickly resemble a goldfish bowl. Otherwise, the roof is really special. It’s made of steel and glass and even incorporates a sunroof so that it still feels light and airy when the main roof is closed. One thing: check if the engine is belt or chain driven. VW had issues with tensioners failing, causing the chain to jump and destroy the engine. At least a belt has specified replacement intervals.” Buyer beware… ■ Engines: Listen for rough running, which could be air leaks in the breather hoses and/ or carbon deposits fouling the fuel injectors and forming on the backs of inlet valves and diverter flaps. Check the oil level as TSI petrols can drink it. ■ Transmission: The DSG auto gearbox in the first-generation Eos suffered occasional shift issues. Jerky and snatchy changes suggest failure is imminent. ■ Suspension and brakes: The Eos is a heavy car so check the condition of brake discs and pads. On the test drive, feel for a hard pedal and reduced braking effort, suggesting the brake servo pipes are leaking. Springs and suspension bushes can take a pounding, too. Insist the car has a new MOT, proof that at least what play there is in the suspension system is acceptable. ■ Roof: Check the hood operates smoothly and the multi-plugs that channel power for the hood controller aren’t corroded. Ensure drain channels aren’t blocked and inspect the rubber roof seals. ■ Interior and boot: A freshly valeted and scented Eos may be disguising previously damp carpets and a musty smell. If possible, check it when it has dried out. Water can get under the carpets and damage the roof’s control unit. Make sure the boot is dry since water can get in here, too, and corrode the roof pump. Also worth knowing Cayman Autos, a specialist in convertible roof repairs, claims it sees Eos cars with troublesome roofs quite often. Common issues are dry or perished seals, water ingress via the boot and the
Origin: Used car buying guide: Volkswagen Eos
Used car buying guide: Audi A2
If you’re panning for gold, stop: we may have found some you don’t have to grub around for. It’s the Audi A2, a remarkable little car most of us know to be a future classic but few have acted on. Well, now’s the time to do just that because you never saw such a sweet little bargain. Just £500 is all you need for a 2001- reg SE 1.4 with 116,000 miles and full service history, but if you’re made of money, how about a one-owner 2002-reg 1.4 TDI SE with 98,000 miles for £1795? Many A2s have full service histories and, being Audis, still feel taut and fresh. Best of all, their owners are nuts – in a good way. They love good engineering and they love their A2s. They look after them – and that’s rare in the used car market. The A2 is one of those cars that comes along now and then and gives the trees a good shake. Lightness, exceptional fuel economy, impressive packaging efficiency, high levels of safety and ease of ownership were its USPs when it was launched in 2000. (It ceased production in 2005.) Built entirely of aluminium and with a strong spaceframe at its heart, it weighed just 895kg in its lightest form. It arrived powered by a 74bhp 1.4 MPI petrol engine, followed a few months later by a three-cylinder 1.4 TDI diesel engine also producing 74bhp. Owners boast of this engine returning up to 70mpg. The next year, the most interesting A2 was launched: the stripped-out 60bhp 1.2 TDI diesel auto. Unfortunately, this ultra-economical model (it returns a claimed 94mpg and emits just 81g/km of CO2) wasn’t sold in the UK, at least officially, but around 10 examples survive here today. Rob Womersley, boss of VW and Audi specialists Wom Automotive, owns one – but then he owns six A2s and claims his business maintains 100 of them. “A2s are just so tough,” he says. “We have some as courtesy cars and they never give any trouble.” He doesn’t quite include the more powerful 109bhp 1.6 FSI petrol and 89bhp 1.4 TDI diesel in his tribute. Audi’s direct injection system made its debut in the 1.6 FSI and never settled down; and that 1.4 TDI has a temperamental dual-mass flywheel and its turbocharger is prone to carbon build-up. Fortunately, there are enough less troublesome 74bhp 1.4 MPIs and TDIs on the market for you to ignore them. Another costly problem, common to all A2s, is repairing serious accident damage. It’s high enough for most insurers to write off a car. At least casual dents can be fixed. SE trim dominates but many of its features that were initially standard were withdrawn to become options, once Audi realised they were the only things that turned a profit. Cars in Sport trim sit a little lower and have sports seats. Most A2s have two seats in the rear and, remarkably, they’re removable. It’s a buying guide cliché but now really is the time to buy a good A2 before that word ‘bargain’ no longer applies. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view: Graham Alderson, Director, IVC Leeds: “We’re a specialist Volkswagen Group workshop and I’ve always owned Audis. Last year, I bought a 2003 A2 1.4 TDI with 155,000 miles on the clock. I’ve since put another 40,000 on it commuting to work. It hasn’t put a wheel wrong and averages 55mpg. It’s one of the few A2s with three rear seats, so I can carry my three kids. We get a steady dribble of A2s through the workshop but I can’t say there are typical problems, other than age-related things like worn suspension.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: The 74bhp 1.4 MPI can suffer coil packissues. The 1.6 FSI can have problemswith its direct injection and emissionscontrol systems and, on lower-mileagecars, its head gasket. The 89bhp 1.4TDI can suffer expensive dual-massflywheel issues and carbon build-up onthe variable-geometry turbo. ■ Transmission: A notchy change may be worn selectortower bearings caused by water ingress. ■ Brakes: More powerful petrol and diesel A2shave discs all round but the rears cancorrode easily since they’re little used. ■ Suspension: On post-2002 cars, check for failure ofthe pressed-steel wishbones. (Earlierones were cast.) Worn anti-roll barbushes may need replacement of theentire component but you can fit anoversize bush instead. On A2s with 17inwheels and S line suspension, expectthe ride to be uncomfortably firm. ■ Body: Corrosion is likely to be related to apoor crash repair where non-Audi approved connecting parts have beenused. Check for water in the batterycompartment, caused by tired seals inthe rear bumper. Where fitted, makesure the large glass roof operates asthe mechanism can be temperamental. ■ Identification: Confirm the vehicle’s ID on theVIN plate, which, in addition to the usual locations, you may find inthe passenger footwell, under thehandbrake, in the rear centre tunnel orunder the false floor on the driver’s side. ■ Interior: Expect the driver’s seat side bolster tobe worn and the satin finish on switchesand controls to be wearing off, but noserious rattles. Also worth knowing To check the oil level,
Origin: Used car buying guide: Audi A2
Used car buying guide: Rover Mini
Buy the right one and it’ll be great fun but buy the wrong one…” So says Richard Williams, a long-established Mini specialist. It’s advice that you could apply to any motor, but given that a good Mini is the definition of ‘fun’, to buy a bad one must surely be the definition of something verging on hell. The worst thing waiting for you in the flames is rust like you’ve never seen. Replacing corroded shells, panels, bulkheads, floors and sills is an expensive and fraught business, and having sorted one problem, you’re bound to find another, and another… Such a vehicle passed through auction recently. The 1985 C-reg Mini 1000 City E had done 89,000 miles and sold for £2530. The car’s former owner, its 11th, had bought it to rekindle youthful memories. It was in original condition, but by October 2017, he’d spent £800 on new sills, £1629 on other panel work and £1500 on mechanical and electrical repairs. “I realise I am no longer a Mini fan and neither am I prepared to carry on being a mechanic,” he said as the hammer fell. Not the most encouraging anecdote with which to start a Mini buying guide but it’s best you remove your rose-tinted specs now. Williams has: “I only buy garaged Minis, generally from retired folk who appreciate and know how to look after them.” The model goes back to 1959 but here we’re interested in the last-of-the-line Rover Mini, also called the Mk7, of 1996-2000. By 1990, the Mini’s venerable 998cc engine had gone, replaced by a 1275cc unit. In 1992, this got single-point fuel injection and then, in 1996, with the arrival of the Mk7, multi-point complete with distributor-less ignition, electronic management and a coil per plug. The old side-mounted radiator was moved to the front, the alternator was beefed up and a higher final drive ratio was fitted. As for the body, the wheel arches became more flared, the headlights got adjustable levelling and side impact beams were fitted. New seats and headlining, thicker carpet, new control stalks and trims, remote central locking, seatbelt pre-tensioners and a driver’s airbag completed the interior makeover. Versions included the standard 1.3i, the Cooper 1.3i and its sporty spin-offs, and specials such as the Paul Smith, Classic Se7en and Knightsbridge. It was all done in response to research that had found the Mini was popular among fashion-conscious, professional singles; perhaps the same research BMW drew on for its replacement. Today, a nice, garaged Mk7 looks better than ever. It may lack the cachet of a classic Cooper, say, or a standard version with sliding windows and a cable door opener, but you’ll pay less (although we found a 2001 Cooper Sport 500 with 500 miles for a stiff £28k) and have something that rides and goes that little bit better. Buy a good one, as opposed to a bad one, and its price will only go one way, too. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view : “I spend 90% of my time looking for good Minis and 10% selling them. I’m only interested in well-maintained garaged cars because that’s what people want and are prepared to pay for. For example, I had 17 very nice Minis two weeks ago and now I’ve only three left. You can buy far cheaper Minis than mine from around £3000 but you may need to spend at least as much again getting such a car to an acceptable condition. Then, when people research its MOT history and find it was once failed for rust, not even the expensive bodywork you’ve done will persuade them to buy it! Good ones are out there but you’ll need to look at five cars to find one worth having.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Oil smoke could be valve stem seals, a low-down rumble a distressed crank, a noisy idle a failing timing chain and mayonnaise around the oil filler a leaky head gasket. Check the condition of the oil and coolant levels, and for a recent oil change sticker. Let the engine idle and pray the cooling fan cuts in. Blip the throttle and watch for the engine rocking abnormally. ■ Transmission: Even a healthy gearbox whines on the overrun. Listen for worn synchromesh and feel for a tired clutch. A recent MOT will have checked things like split driveshaft gaiters but feel if CV joints are worn by turning the wheel to full lock and driving slowly in circles. ■ Brakes, steering and suspension: The ride should be bouncy but well damped, and the steering light and quick, the car changing direction in an instant. When braking, expect to pull up in a straight line and for the brake pedal to feel firm, not hard. Again, a fresh MOT should rubber-stamp most of these mechanicals. Try to separate trim rattles from suspension noises. ■ Body: Check the inner and outer sills, floor and rear subframe for rust. Ditto the front wings, door skins and the A-panel between the doors and wings. Use a magnet to locate filler and a screwdriver to lift and peer behind anticorrosion layers. Also, check the boot floor where the battery sits. Also worth knowing It may look like a
Origin: Used car buying guide: Rover Mini
Used car buying guide: Renault Megane RS
With a hot hatch on your mind and £7000 in your pocket, what are you going to buy? Allow us to suggest a Renault Sport Mégane 250, perhaps the 2010/60-reg example with 67,000 miles that we found. It has a full service history, every fettle slavishly listed with its corresponding mileage in the private seller’s advertisement. It had its cambelt and water pump changed last November, almost bang on schedule. It’s had five owners, but then, as a motor trader once told us, that’s five honeymoons when the car has been spoiled rotten. Based on the third-gen Mégane, the all-new RS 250 arrived in the UK in 2010 before going out with a bang in the form of the 275 Trophy R of 2015. These two models alone remind us just what a confusing world planet RS Mégane can be. To recap, from launch you had the RS Mégane 250 powered by a 2.0-litre turbocharged engine producing 247bhp. It was partnered by a cheaper and more focused Cup version (lower, lighter, stiffer and with a limited-slip differential), although you could have the standard, or Sport version as it was called, with the Cup chassis. Both were exceptionally well made, and today a good used one still feels solid. Accept nothing less. So that’s the 250, but then, in 2011 up popped the Mégane 265 Trophy with 261bhp. It was based on the 250 Cup but cost £3800 more, a premium in part justified by the fact that only 50 came to the UK. Its party trick was the squeal from its special Bridgestone Potenza tyres as the car launched itself at the horizon. In fact, they were credited with helping the model break the front-drive lap record at the Nürburgring. The obligatory facelift occurred in 2012, the most obvious feature being the new daytime LED strip lights. Less obvious to bystanders was the fact that the 265 engine in the limited-edition Trophy had elbowed aside the old 250 unit to become the car’s standard powerplant. As before, there were Cup and Sport versions, as well as a combination of both. An important thing to note, however, is that the car’s default mode remained 247bhp. To unleash the full 261bhp, you press the ESP button. Hold it down longer and the stability aids are turned off. Check it all works on the test drive. And still Renault couldn’t stop tinkering. Rattled by newcomers such as Seat’s Leon Cupra 280, in 2014 it launched a flagship version of the Mégane called the 275 Trophy. With 271bhp available, the Cup chassis as standard and a very vocal, titanium Akrapovic exhaust doing the dirty work, it looked like being the best of the bunch – and then along came the even lighter, Öhlins suspension-equipped, limited-edition 275 Trophy R. That’s a lot of names to remember but, when it boils down to it, be it a £30,000 275 Trophy R or a £7000 250 Sport, an RS Mégane is a great, used, hot hatch buy – period. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Floyd Hollinshead, RS Four Ashes: “I’ve had an RS 250 for four years and love it. The engine is strong and can handle serious upgrades. I’ve fitted a K-Tec Racing Stage 2 performance pack, taking it to 350bhp. It costs £4500 fitted, and you need to upgrade the brakes and suspension. We do a Stage 1 upgrade, a remap and panel filter to 300bhp for £349. It’s enough for most people. My favourite is the 275 Trophy R with Akrapovic exhaust and Öhlins suspension but have you seen the prices? Whichever one you’re interested in, check that the gearbox, flywheel and suspension are sound and not making odd noises.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Depending on age and mileage, check the cambelt and water pump were changed at six years or 75,000 miles. An RS needs 5W-40 fully synthetic oil. Check for oil leaks around the rocker and sump covers. ■ Transmission: The PK4 gearbox can suffer from noisy bearings. The cause isn’t clear but it’s an expensive job to fix. On cars with over 60,000 miles, the dual-mass flywheel can develop a faint clicking or tapping noise. It’ll only get worse. ■ Interior: Check underfloor storage cubbies for damp and driver’s seat bolsters for splits and cracks. Make sure all the warning lights go out after start-up. ■ Suspension: Rubber top-mount bushes can split and anti-roll bar drop links wear. The latter make a slight knock. More serious are worn lower swivel joints, first heard as a slight knock but in serious cases as a creaking on full lock. Such cars are undrivable: accelerate and the bottom of the suspension will try to pull itself outwards; when you brake, it will pull inwards. ■ Brakes and tyres: Examine the edges of the discs for heavy lipping and that the car pulls up straight. With the front wheels at full lock, check the inner shoulders of the tyres for excessive wear. Check the tyres are a premium brand, too. ■ Body: Check the windscreen scuttle drainers for blockages. Rear wheel arches attract stone chips and need attention before corrosion sets in. Also worth knowing In 2015, a chain of dedicated Renault Sport dealers (renaultsport.co.uk)
Origin: Used car buying guide: Renault Megane RS
Used car buying guide: Ferrari F430
“Now’s the time to buy a 430 while prices are soft and there are plenty to choose from.” So says James Caborn, sales executive at Kent High Performance Cars. The dealership majors on Ferrari and the day before we spoke, James had sold a 15,000-mile 2006 F430 Spider F1 for £77,000, or £3000 off the screen price. It was a proper car, too, finished in Rosso Corsa with Nero Black leather, and fitted out with the interior carbon pack. On the same day, the cheapest approved used F430 in the official dealer network was also a coupé F1; another 2006-reg but with 24,000 miles, finished in Nero Black and advertised for £79,900, including the excellent, official used car warranty. But whatever you spend on a 430 (from around £60,000 for tired cars all the way to £280,000 for a late, lefthand-drive 16M F1 with full exterior carbon pack and 8000 miles) you’re getting a wonderful, usable Ferrari. It was launched in the UK in 2005 in both coupé and convertible forms, powered by a rear mid-mounted 4.3-litre V8 producing 483bhp. This was an all-new engine with, crucially, chain rather than belt-driven camshafts, laying to rest buyers’ concerns regarding the expensive belt-change intervals associated with earlier models. (On that point, the 430’s forerunner, the 360, does at least have a removable panel for access to the offending area.) Drive passes to the rear wheels through a clever electronic differential called the E-diff that channels torque to the wheel with the greatest grip. You can play tunes on it via a rotary controller called the manettino mounted on the steering wheel. Depending how courageous you’re feeling you can cycle through five grip levels. Verging on crazy? You can turn it off completely. The same controller allows you to adjust damper settings, shift speeds and throttle response. Gearboxes are a choice between a six-speed manual or Ferrari’s F1 automated manual with paddle shifts. Only around 10% of 430s were sold with the manual ’box. From 2007 a stripped-down, 503bhp version of the coupé called the Scuderia was offered followed, in 2009, by a convertible version called the 16M Spider. Also, from late 2007, previously optional carbon ceramic disc brakes became standard. Great if you like track days; not so if you don’t and the discs need replacing… That expensive niggle aside, the 430 was a thoroughly well-sorted car from day one, so don’t fret about buying an early one over a later model. Problems? Exhaust manifolds can crack – although there’s a fix and in any case, many were replaced – it’s heavy on suspension and the rubberised finish on the interior can come off on your hands. A full main dealer or specialist service history, the toolkit and the right tyres are a must. If it’s a convertible, check the hood is free of tears, and folds and sits properly. All good? Then do what the man says: buy now while prices are soft. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Scott Chivers, Multiple Ferrari owner and self-taught Ferrari fixer: “I owned a 430 Scuderia I bought from a Ferrari dealer in Austria and drove home from Vienna without a problem. The car had only done 6000 miles but I sold it a few months later to a chap who has barely driven it since. That’s a tragedy because like the 360, the 430 is easily a daily driver that can take serious mileages. If the entry price is too high, consider a left-hand-drive one. There’ll always be a good market in the US and Europe for it when you sell. Rosso Corsa, or what I call Resale Red, with either a black, tan or cream interior is the best combination.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: First, have the undertrays removed. The engine has a dry sump so check the oil level when it’s hot. Services should be every 6250 miles or annually. Check for cracked exhaust manifolds. Excessive engine vibration may be a cracked engine mount. ■ Transmission: Check for regular fluid changes and hydraulic actuator leaks. Examine the transmission control unit’s clutch wear record; a worn clutch will make the car sluggish from take-off. On manuals, check for a heavy clutch and for slippage. A troublesome E-diff might be faulty solenoids. Examine the gearbox mounts which can crack. ■ Suspension and brakes: It’s heavy on balljoints and bushes. Check ride modes work and for play in the steering wheel, suggesting worn tie-rod ends. Feel for worn wheel bearings (about £800 a corner). If ceramic brake discs are fitted, check their remaining life using Ferrari’s diagnostic system. Check caliper pistons aren’t seized. ■ Body: Corrosion of the largely alloy body shouldn’t be an issue so any you see is likely to be damage-related. Check the expensive and hard-to-replace windscreen for chips and cracks. Make sure the Spider’s hood sits correctly. Feel for loose tail-lights (a broken bracket that can’t be fixed) and loose wing mirrors (a loose screw). ■ Interior: Examine the dash leather for shrinkage (noticeable around the vents
Origin: Used car buying guide: Ferrari F430
Used car buying guide: TVR Griffith
As the all-new Griffith inches closer (deliveries should start next year), interest in its forebear remains strong. Not as strong as it was when news of the new model first broke, though. Then, values of the old Griff stiffened quickly as people made the connection, only to soften slightly as its successor’s launch date was pushed back. Add winter’s usual chilling effect on convertible prices and now is probably your last chance to snare an old Griff for sensible money before the new model, costing from around £90,000, hoves into view once more. All that said, these days you’ll be lucky to find a decent runner much below £15,000, while good, refurbished cars start at around £20,000. The best nudge £35,000, while the very best, lowest-mileage and cleanest last-of-the-line SEs go all the way to £50,000. The good news is that a good Griff, lovingly maintained and refreshed with essential new parts, should one day be worth more than you paid for it. The Griffith was launched in 1991 with a 240bhp 4.0-litre Rover V8 under the bonnet. Power went to the rear wheels via a five-speed Rover LT77 gearbox and a GKN limited-slip differential. The electrical system was by Lucas and lifted straight out of the Range Rover, and that, if you were wondering, is why there’s so much wiring stuffed in with the battery, located in the passenger bulkhead. You’ll also find the ECU, fuse box and heater pipes in there. It’s not a place for the faint-hearted. The Griffith’s glassfibre body is mounted on a spaceframe chassis with outriggers that extend from the backbone of the car. Mud and debris flicked up by the wheels stick to these and in time they rot through, although it happens from above, which can be hard to spot. Replacing the outriggers, without removing the body, costs up to £2000. In 1992, a 4.3 V8 making 280bhp became available, and around 25 of them were produced with big-valve cylinder heads. These were very torquey and, because they just preceded the 1993 law that required a catalytic converter to be fitted to all new petrol cars, gloriously vocal. After a brief suspension in production, in 1993 the Griffith re-emerged with the engine it should have had from the start: a 5.0-litre V8 with 340bhp. It powered the model to the very end, which came in 2002 heralded by the special-edition SE. Some ride on 16in wheels, where most Griffs sit on 15s at the front and 16s behind. The gearbox in 5.0 Griffiths is a Borg Warner T5. You can tell it from the Rover ’box because reverse is to the right and back, where on the Rover it’s to the left and forward. Reverse often spins, so to avoid it crunching, select first then reverse. The engines are generally tough and reliable. It’s electrical gremlins, tired dampers and bushes and chassis corrosion that spoil things. Keeping on top of them should keep you busy at weekends, but the rewards will be incalculable. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view David Hothersall, TVRCC: “I’ve had my 1998 Griffith 500 for 13 years. I bought it with 19,000 miles and today it’s showing 83,000. It’s my daily driver and has mostly been trouble-free. If there had been any serious problems, there’s enough support out there to build a new one. In fact, there are at least three TVR businesses operating from the old Bristol Avenue factory. The Griffith isn’t complicated but, given its torque-to-weight ratio, you have to respect it.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Listen for camchain rattles: they last about 100,000 miles; camshafts can need replacing at 50k. Expect oil leaks from rocker cover gaskets and sump cover. Early 5.0s had crank issues. Check oil pressure and also engine temperature since the radiator can become blocked and the fan can seize. Check exhaust condition and for smoke from the manifolds. ■ Transmission: Five-speed gearboxes are tough, but check the fluid has been changed at intervals; on the later T5, check reverse doesn’t crunch. Early GKN diff is noisy; later Salisbury units leak oil. ■ Suspension and steering: Push the car down at each corner to check for any bouncing. Check the condition of the ball joints. Check tyres for uneven wear: wheel alignment issues can be hard to resolve if crash-related. ■ Electrics: Check the ECU, battery and Lucas wiring loom in the front passenger bulkhead are watertight and neatly stowed. Try all the electrics; the body flexes and can chafe wires, and earthing issues are common. ■ Chassis: Check the outriggers that extend from the centre section to the sills, and from which steel sections run at right angles front to back. They collect mud and debris and rot from the top. The seat belt anchors are located on them, so corrosion can compromise safety. Poke underseal with a screwdriver to check it’s not masking rotting steel. ■ Body: Check the body for ripples, cracks and overspray. Inspect the windscreen base for water tightness. Also worth knowing The TVR Car Club (tvr-car-club.co.uk) is a good place to
Origin: Used car buying guide: TVR Griffith
Used car buying guide: Porsche 928
It’s 41 years since the first Porsche 928 rolled off the production line in 1978. More astonishing still, in this age of model cycles barely longer than a weekend, it’s only 24 years since the last one bowed out in 1995. That’s a huge age range to contemplate, but as is always the case when we’re talking about old motors, only one thing really matters when buying a 928: condition. For years the model languished in motoring’s retirement home, celebrated occasionally but otherwise left to rot. As recently as 2013, decent runners could be picked up for as little as £4750, some dropping as low as £2300. One rare GT manual with a good service history was £8250. They’re not that cheap today. Cars that are decent if care-worn start at around £10,000, while sound 928s begin at £20,000 and those that let you sleep at night cost from £25,000. With the exception of a few sought-after manuals, they’re all autos. The cheapest, straight-sounding manual we found was a 1982 X-reg 928 4.5 with 80,000 miles and full service history, being sold privately for a not unreasonable £21,500. A later 5.0 GT manual in sound order and with around 100,000 miles was £38,000. The best low-mileage GT manuals go for around £50,000. Intended to take the place of the 911, sales of which had slumped, the 928 was first powered by a front-mounted, 4.5-litre, fuel-injected V8 producing 237bhp. Drive went to the rear wheels via a five-speed manual gearbox or optional three-speed auto. David Hemmings, author of two books on the 928 and currently the 928 register secretary of the Porsche Club, bought one new in 1980 (cost: around £20,000) following a succession of unreliable British sports cars. He subsequently acquired a 1992-reg S4 in 1995 and then in 2018 bought the first manual 928 to arrive in the UK, a 1978 4.5. “My first 928 impressed me with its looks, solid build quality – it was galvanised and had aluminium panels – and good standard equipment level,” he recalls. “The V8 was great, of course, but it was also reliable, which made a change.” Today, early 928s are prized for their clean lines and relative simplicity. For the be-spoilered 928 S of 1980 the engine grew to 4.7 litres and produced 296bhp. The 928 S2, essentially a more powerful (306bhp) and updated S, followed it in 1984. The S4 of 1987 upped the ante with a 32-valve 5.0-litre V8 producing 316bhp. The limited-edition SE manual arrived in 1988 (it fetches high prices today) followed, a year later, by the equally rare 325bhp GT manual. As the end beckoned, in 1992 the S4 and GT morphed into the GTS, powered by a 5.4-litre V8 producing 345bhp. The last cars left the production line in 1995. Of the 4500 928s sold in the UK, Hemmings reckons between 2750 and 3000 remain, testament to the appeal and durability of this charismatic GT. Put one on your drive before prices are out of reach. How to get one in your garage An expert’s view Andrew Means, founder Gmund Cars: “I owned a 928 for five years, bought out of the classifieds for £6600 and sold for £20,000. Today you have to be really careful when buying one. I was offered three last year but didn’t bite; I later saw one of them sell at auction for £30,000. I hope the buyer knew it had a knackered gearbox. For years, few people wanted a 928 so they weren’t looked after properly. People pay fortunes for the rare manuals but the dog-leg ’box doesn’t suit righthand drive. Give me an auto any day.” Buyer beware… ■ Engine: Engine smoke when warm hints at worn valve guides and cylinder bores. Check the oil level and try to gauge oil consumption (500 miles per litre is typical). Lumpy running could be a worn distributor or failed ECU; vibration at idle may be worn engine mounts. Timing belts, tensioners and water pumps should be changed every 60k miles or four years. Check for coolant leaks; Porsche coolant needs changing every four years. ■ Transmission: Check that the torque tube connecting the gearbox to the diff isn’t putting pressure on the flywheel mounting plate. Examine the underside of the automatic gearbox and torque converter for leaks. Rare manual ’box has a notchy change but too much stiffness can wear out the synchros. ■ Brakes, steering and suspension: Check the brake lines and hoses, steering and driveshaft gaiters, and suspension arms and bushes. Clonking could mean worn bushes; a floaty ride suggests worn dampers. ■ Body: The galvanised 928 has aluminium doors, front wings and bonnet but check for bubbling around windows and the rear hatch, and the underside for corrosion. Tired sunroof and tailgate seals can cause damp carpets. ■ Interior: Check all the electrical systems work. Where fitted, a failed air-con suggests penny-pinching elsewhere. Expect trim and upholstery to be worn or torn, so factor refurbishment into the price. Also worth knowing In the Porsche Classic section of the Services Accessories menu at porsche.com/uk you’ll find a wealth of information on the
Origin: Used car buying guide: Porsche 928
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